Alberta
Banff and Lake Louise Areas: Rock Climbing
In addition to the countless and well documented Alpine options in this
region, and possibly the best ice-climbing in the world, there are many
possibilities for rock-climbers. Many of the Alpine climbs on Wiwaxy Peak,
Mt. Louis, and Castle Mountain, to name a few objectives, can be achieved
without crampons or ice-axe. The East End of Mt. Rundle (EEOR), the Back
of the Lake at Lake Louise, Acephale Crag, Bataan Lakes, and Grassi Lakes
all have numerous options for sport climbing, and there are dozens of other
similar sites in the area. Longer trad and sport routes can be done on Mt.
Eisenhower and Ha Ling (ChinamanÈs Peak), (see Canmore) as well as the more
alpine walls that proliferate in the region.
Alpine Climbing: Lake Louise, Mt.s Lefroy,
Victoria, etc.
The ACCÈs Abbott Pass Hut can be accessed from trails from Lake OÈHara,
and this hut is a good place to launch climbs on these popular alpine peaks.
Alpine Climbing: Lake Louise, Valley of the
Ten Peaks
This location has some fine alpine climbing, (see the back of a $20 bill)
but there is much poor rock. Mt.s Temple, Fay and Deltaform are amongst
the most famous of the Rockies, and there is a range of climbing including
the very difficult E. Face of Fay and the Deltaform Couloir, as well as
popular easy routes, like the SW Ridge of Temple. Access from Moraine Lake
Parking Area. The ACCÈs Neil Colgan Hut is useful for longer stays in the
are (see below).
Alpine Climbing: Columbia Icefields, Mt. Alberta
Area
Superb alpine opportunities exist in the Icefields area, ranging from easier
routes up snow peaks like Athabasca, to the most feared mixed climbs in
North America, such like Andromeda Strain on Mt. Andromeda, the grand Central
Couloir on Mt. Kitchener, and the north face of North Twin, the most respected
hard face in the Rockies. access via the icefields parkway near Sunwapta
Pass. The Mount Alberta Hut is run by the ACC, and helps make this area
a little more hospitable in poor weather.
Alpine Climbing: Icefields Parkway
Several peaks are accessed from the Banff Jasper Highway, such as Howse
Peak, Mt. Chephren (from Waterfowl Lakes Campground) and Mt. Forbes ( just
north of the Saskatchewan River). A variety of difficulties of climbing
are possible.
Jasper Area: Rock-Climbing
Jasper provides numerous excellent areas with opportunities for sport-climbing,
top-roping and alpine climbing. It is also the Rockies area closest to Edmonton.
Sport-climbers and those in search of moderate one pitch climbing could
try the Rock Gardens, close to Medicine Lake, and the Lost Boys crag accessed
from 93A, 30km south of Jasper. Those in search of longer routes should
visit Roche Miette with its 300m adventure routes and the Dune Wall, which
offers five pitches of steep limestone climbing. Alpine opportunities include
the famous ice routes of the Columbia Icefields, and the mixed climbs on
Mt. Alberta, North Twin, Mt. Edith Cavell, Mt. Robson, and numerous other
less famous peaks.
Alpine Climbing: Jasper Area, Mt. Robson
Perhaps the greatest peak of the Canadian Rockies (and definitely the highest,
Robson provides alpine challenges of a significant calibre, even by its
easiest routes, the hardest routes, on the north face are the rarefied realm
of the hardened expert. The peak is in BC, but access is via Hwy 16, west
of Jasper.
Alpine Climbing: Jasper Area, Mt. Edith Cavell
One of the classic peaks of the Canadian Rockies, Edith Cavell has the classic
West Ridge, as well as harder routes on the North Face. All routes are substantial
alpine endeavours. Walk in from the Cavell road head on 93A, south of Jasper.
Canmore/Front Range: Rock-Climbing
Numerous opportunities abound here for rock-climbers. The Ghost River
area, accessed from Hwy 40, which leaves 1A 14km west of Cochrane has
hundreds of routes of both trad and sport styles, varying from 20m to
300m. Yamnuska, visible north of 1A, 20km west of Morley, has some of
the most classic long (200-300m) moderate routes in the country as well
as a handful of desperate, loose, overhanging horrors. Ha Ling (Chinaman’s
Peak) near Canmore has some superb long routes, including Canada’s
longest sport climb Sisyphus Summits (no, you eastern sportsters, you
can’t make it to the top and lower off with a 60m rope, its 500m
long). Sport climbing options abound, including the Barrier Cliffs in
the Kananaskis, Grotto Canyon, and the sport areas in the Banff area.
Moderate short routes and some top-roping can be had in the Grotto Canyon,
and at the Wasootch slabs.
Calgary
Calgary is about 45 minutes from Yamnuska and the Ghost River. An hour
and a bit will put you within range of Ha Ling (Chinaman’s Peak),
the Back of the Lake, and countless other options, as if that were not
enough, however, nature has also provided easily accessible bouldering
within a fifteen minute drive of the city. Some sandstone outcrops in
ravines around the city have some good traverses and top-roping. Excellent
quartzite conglomerate boulders are available in Okotoks, south of the
city, as well as a couple of other, less extensive locations.
Ice-Climbing: The Canadian Rockies, The World’s
Best
What can we say, except that the Canadian Rockies have the best ice-climbing
in the world. The sheer number of routes, the stability of the conditions,
the variety of settings, from practically super-Alpine to roadside access,
and the wide range of difficulty is virtually unequalled.Cataloguing the
areas is almost impossible, although such regions as the Banff-Jasper Highway,
the Ghost River, Field BC, and the Waterton area, are all names to conjure
with in the world of ice-climbing.<<
