>> August - September 2000

BC News
Conrad Kain Bugaboo Hut Reservations Now Possible B.C. Parks and The Alpine Club of Canada
As of the summer of 2000 climbers using the Conrad Kain Hut will be able to make reservations through The Alpine Club of Canada1s national office in Canmore, Alberta. In the past, even hopeful hut visitors had to carry a tent because there was no way of knowing whether space would be available. The two campgrounds in Bugaboo Provincial Park will still be run on a first-come, first-served basis. Fees are as follows:

For reservations or more information, call the ACC at 403.678.3200 ext.1, fax: 403.678.3224, e-mail: alpclub@telusplanet.netor check out their website at www.alpineclubofcanada.ca <<

 

Everest Millennium Wrap Up: Two Canadians on Top, Sherpa Sets New Speed Record
Two Canadians made it to the top of Mt Everest in the highly publicised spring millennium rush for the summit, both using the original route and extensive sherpa support. Ben Webster of Toronto summited on May 17. Afterwards, Ben admitted that 3I wanted to climb another [peak] but partners and sponsors said they1d only get involved if it was Everest.2 Byron Smith, leading the Everest 2000 expedition, which was sponsored by the CBC, made it to the summit on May 21. Gripped reported that well-known Alberta climber and photographer Brad Wrobleski had left the Everest 2000 trip because he had suffered a bout of oedema above the Khumbu Icefall. In fact, Brad left after a personality conflict with Byron at basecamp. Also on Mt Everest, Sherpa Baba Chhiri climbed from basecamp to the summit in 15 hours and 56 minutes, smashing the previous record of 2I hours, set by Kagzi Sherpa.<<

 

Ontario News

Trotter does Eastern Canada1s first 5.14_Steve Townshend
On Friday June 23rd, Eastern Canada saw the first ascent of it1s first 5.14 (Canada1s fifth 5.14). Sonnie Trotter of Newmarket Ontario redpointed Titan at Lions Head making it his 9th 5.14a to date (others include: Zulu, Soup Nazi, Yellow Card at Rifle and Horse Latitudes, F-Dude, and Planet Earth at Virgin River Gorge). Sonnie, who has been featured in past issues of Gripped, is becoming known for quickly dispatching hard routes wherever he goes, including most of the 5.131s in Ontario, many of which were first ascents.

When asked about the route, Sonnie said 3It1s a lot like F-dude, the start is steep, the middle is pumpy and then there is a slab crux at the top. It1s not hard .14a, it just takes a lot to climb it and it1s too involved to be 5.13d.2 The route is 40m long, and it climbs past 22 bolts. It starts on the ground, whereas most routes at Lions Head start from either hanging belays or ledges. The route was bolted by Chris Oates several years ago. This is the third Chris Oates project that Sonnie has climbed (also, Bionic Spaceboy (5.13d) at Old Baldy, and Hole New World (5.13b) [a.k.a. Batarang] at White Bluff. Sonnie credited Chris with the vision to seeing the line in the first place, 3I really want to thank Chris Oates, he has done so much for Ontario sport climbing. I credit him for having an excellent eye to spot a good line. Now I know why he was saving Titan - because it1s so beautiful. It1s a shame he doesn1t climb anymore: I think he deserves a lot of respect. I still feel a bit guilty.

It took Sonnie ten tries over six days to redpoint Titan. One third of that time was spent cleaning, re-bolting (six bolts had to be replaced to make the clips smoother and to reduce rope drag), and drying wet holds. He says it is a five star route, but it is not the hardest 5.14 he has done. There are three cruxes, the first is around V9, then a good shake to a V7. The last is a V8 vertical/slab crux at the top. The moves on Titan are long lock offs. The upper crux is very fingery and technical. About a week before Sonnie1s redpoint, another climber broke off a hold around 15m up. Sonnie figured out a way to climb through the move without it. 3I just had to switch my hand beta and make a much longer pull to the next hold.

The line is 100% natural, 3there was one chipped pocket at the top, but I did not use it, I figured out a way to avoid it because it means more to me being all natural. It is really not harder to skip the hold, maybe it1s easier. I'm planning on going back to fill [the chipped pocket] in.2 He describes the route as 3the perfect Lion1s Head route, it climbs the whole length of the crag and when you top out you feel like you1re on top of the world! It1s a lot like the other 5.131s in the area, only way harder and better because the climbing goes on forever.2 The redpoint took Sonnie more than 20 minutes.

So what1s next for Sonnie Trotter? 3I hope to go to Rifle, and Utah for the summer. I really want to climb a solid 5.14b.2 We1re sure he will, and much more. <<

 

Quebec News

Jeff Beaulieu climbs 5.13c/d at the Champlain, New Trad Terror at Champlain_Stephane Lapierre, Peewee Ouellet
In late May, after many attempts, Jeff Beaulieu finished a top-rope project between Sado-Digital and ánergie potentielle. The route, Cletoris, may be the hardest in the province. Jean-Pierre AKA Peewee Ouellett, who tried it, commented that 3the holds are very small and hard to find.2 Also at the Champlain, Peewee redpointed the first lead of the longstanding top rope problem ánergie potentielle, grading it 5.13a, R/X. He successfully worked the route last year on top-rope and this spring he top-roped it three or four times. After spending a day working at L'Aventurier, Pee-wee decided he was ready and asked a friend to come along and hold his rope. Pee-wee placed all the gear on lead, and there are several places on the route where a ground fall is possible. He described the climb as the most beautiful at Champlain. Pee-wee cited the video Hard Grit as his inspiration to lead the climb, and said that part of his plan for the summer was to climb Stage Fright (12d x) at Cathedral Ledge in North Conway. Last summer, Jeff and Peewee made the first free ascent of Les Grand Galets (V 5.13a) at Cap Trinite. <<

 

ForeignAffairs

Shelly Hoover of Edmonton Sends V8 in Bishop_Trent Hoover
Shelley Hoover, 22, of Edmonton cleaned up in a 10 day vacation to the Bishop area in early April. First heading to the Happy Boulders, Shelley quickly sent Groundwater V5 on the More Water Less Power boulder, and then proceeded uphill to the Action Figure Area, where she onsighted the testpiece Action Figure V7. After a few days trying classic slab and friction problems on the granite eggs of the Buttermilk boulders, she was back for more of the powerful problems of the volcanic tableland. She wrapped up her trip with a quick ascent of Chef's Arete V8 at the Sad Boulders. Shelley is moving to Vancouver in the summer.<<

 

Action Direct sees it1s third ascent: one of the world's hardest routes, 9a(5.14d) has been repeated
Iker Pou, a young Spanish climber, became the third person to redpoint Action Direct, in Frankenjura, Germany. Wolfgang Gˆllich made the first ascent in 1991. In 1995, Alexander Adler, (Germany), repeated the route, but didn't get much of the media's attention. Iker, who worked the route for over six months, managed to complete his project and finally tick a 9a (5.14d). <<

 

BC News

New Sport Routes and Boulder Problems_Marc Bourdon
A flurry of climbing activity on the West Coast resulted from a relatively dry, early season. The chilly, crisp conditions, cherished by true granite connoisseurs, occurred with great frequency, unlike the previous winter, which will be remembered for incessant rainfall. Locals charged the rock early this spring to test the theory that training on plastic can make you stronger, not just injured.

First out of the blocks was Tyrone Brett. After scrubbing a vast new bouldering area on the Chief1s north side, he polished off his old Sport Temple project First Blood, giving it 5.13a. Once again, Tyrone1s preference for short, boulder-style sport routes became evident, as leaving the ground is the crux! At Petrifying Wall, Marc Bourdon managed to slip in a new line just right of Second Nature. Project Grizzly, also 5.13a, weaves up the full height of the slick wall providing four distinct cruxes for your tweaking pleasure. Finally, Jeff Thomson and Glenn Payan continued their quest for new slab climbs and discovered a gem. The lengthy, well-protected Alegria is on the wall immediately right of Cream of White Mice in the Bulletheads. At 5.11b, this stellar face should prove popular. The tufa-riddled cave at Horne Lake also saw some early season sending despite all the rumblings about closures. A small, dedicated group from the mainland sunk many hard earned dollars into BC Ferries, making regular trips to Vancouver Island. The roof climb, Globetrotters (5.13d), yielded two more ascents with Marc Bourdon and Dan Poggi taking the honours. Jim Sandford rebolted and improved the popular Plastic Jesus and is now working another steep project out the right side of the amphitheatre. Visitors to the Lake are asked to keep a very low profile and avoid parking below the trailhead. Although at present access to this stunning limestone cliff doesn1t seem to be a problem, the situation is still unresolved.

This spring1s cold weather made it possible to hang on to the vicious slopers of the Grand Wall Boulders. Many hard problems succumbed to those who prefer climbing without a string dangling between their legs. Mike Doyle, known for his love of endurance routes, decided to check out what all the fuss was about. In a flurry of power, he flashed Drive Shaft (V8), Worm World Cave (V9) and sent a new dyke traverse on the Basement Boulder with Jordan Wright (Corrupted - V10), all on one day! Mike commented later that "maybe this bouldering thing1s not so bad after all." Doyle, Wright and Nick Goodall then went on to repeat the Sharma desperate Sesame Street (V11) after a couple days of work. The fiendishly simple Egg is rumoured to have been repeated. The former testpiece No Troublems (V10) seems to have become a rite of passage to the harder bouldering in the forest. Successful challengers were Andrew Pacey, Jeremy Blumel, Mike Doyle, Dan Poggi and Jordan Wright. Pacey also flashed the ultra-slopey Undertow (V8), taking full advantage of the prime conditions. The "Indestructible Cleaning Machine" (AKA Jack Fieldhouse) scrubbed no less than fifty new problems this spring. Images of Edward Scissorhands with wire brushes for fingers come to mind when you watch Jack work. With so much rock surrounding the Chief, the potential for new problems is staggering.

A rainy month of May slowed production but a busy summer is sure to follow. Locals are bracing for what they expect will be a big season following the release of the video Rampage. For the most up to date coverage of the bouldering, and a great reference for routes, check out the new Squamish Select guidebook, due out in June. With so much to offer, why not vacation out west this summer and find out what many climbers already know: Squamish is one of North America1s best summer climbing destinations. <<

 

Milton Captures Replicant (5.13d) at Skaha_Scott Milton
Scott Milton sent one of BC' s hardest lines this spring when he completed Replicant. It shares the same start as Blade Runner, then follows a 45 degree overhanging prow. He had seen the line a few years ago but hadn't actually scoped it out until this year. When he got over the lip of the roof which caps the formation, he was horrified to find two abandoned bolts. As it turned out Hugh Lenney had tried the route, but had abandoned the project. The 27 m line is characterized by boulder problems between good clipping holds, with a very obvious crux after the last bolt. Milton says the fall from the crux is safe but that 3people are going to take some good clean air.<<

 

V9/10 Near Prince George_Trent Hoover
Dan Gable, 20, climbed Amon Ra at the Sun Roof Area at the G Boulders, a small bouldering spot just east of Prince George. Dan had attempted this long standing roof problem, which requires a long dyno out of an iron cross, several times last year. When the snow finally melted, Dan headed to the G Boulders and quickly climbed The Machine, a V8 crimpfest that had eluded him last summer. Warmed up, he then headed up the hill to send Amon Ra, giving it an unconfirmed V9/10. <<

 

Alberta News

Long New Ice Routes and Rock Scene Warming Up
Ben Firth Most of the action in the Rockies this spring was on alpine style ice routes. Gimme Shelter (300m VI) on Mt.Quadra, which is usually WI7 formed fatter than ever (WI5+) and saw at least six ascents. Eric Dumerac and Sean King finished the original way, with three pitches through the final serac band. Seracs were seen to fall down the climb itself, and at least two parties retreated because of serac fall. Most successful ascents were made quickly, and some teams managed to do the route in only five long pitches. Riptide, another Rockies WI7, formed up fat and saw many ascents this spring. Dave Marra and Eamonn Walsh climbed the ice smears and gullies above Ice Nine on Mt. Wilson on the Icefieds Parkway to produce Eh Spring Chicken Named Logan (500 m, V 5.8 R WI5). Also on Mt. Wilson, Dave Marra, Cory Balano and Dave Edgar made the probable first ascent of Suntori (VI M6+ A2 WI6). They spent two nights on the route, which gains around 1500m in elevation. Edgar and Marra also put up The Ice Cream Man and The One Eyed Kid (500m, V 5.9 R WI5+), a long route in a big setting on the east side of Mt. Stephen.

On the rock front, development in the Ghost River continued this spring with two new multipitch lines going up beside Thor on Bastion Wall. John Haigh, Jeff Nazarchuk, Ken Wylie, Alan Yamada and Keith Haberl banded together to create Men of Fashion (5.11c/d). Haberl, Wylie and Yamada got together with Richard Jagger and made the first ascent of Curio Emporium (5.11a). Both of these four pitch routes were bolted and cleaned on rappel and then climbed using a mixture of gear and preplaced bolts. Bataan Crag in the Bow Valley saw eight new sport routes ranging from 5.10- to 5.13. For more information check out www.strongholdclimbing.com/tabvar/. A new revision of Jon Jones and John Martin's Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies is due for publication in July.<<

 

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