>> June-July 2002
Foreign Affairs
Easton and Steck Put Up Hard New Route
on Mt Dickey
On March 14 Ueli Steck (Switzerland)
and Sean Easton did a hard new route on Mt Dickey in AlaskaÚs Ruth Gorge.
Blood from the Stone, says Easton "isnÚt really visible from the ground.
You can only see the next pitch as you are heading up it. The snow and ice
was barely thick enough to allow us to continue. A groove system runs the
length of the face and collects ice and spindrift hammered snow which is
present for all but 100m of rock climbing." The party spent four days on
the route which was 27 60m pitches (plus 500m of steep snow) on a 1600m
vertical face. Difficulties were M7+, with many AI6+ 90 degree snow pitches.
West Coast Update
" Spring 2002
The biggest cultural event for moldy, winter-bound West Coast
climbers has become the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival.
This year, it debuted international climbing sensation Chris SharmaÚs slide
show and film, which were warmly received by all in attendance. Fast-forward
to the next morning and part two of the Sharma show took place at the granite
boulders below the Chief. After a quick ascent of the wicked new problem,
Defender of the Faith (V9), Sharma wowed the crowd with a beta-flash of
The Serpent (V10). With these serving as a warm-up, Sharma found himself
at the massive Octagon boulder and spied his new line. In the fading twilight,
he twitched and campused his way up the overhanging south wall of the boulder.
Un-named and graded V-very very hard, he left the locals with another test-piece.
Once again, the audience approved. Sharma wasnÚt the only climber cranking
in the boulders this winter. Sonnie Trotter fired the third ascent of The
Proposal. Brutal winter conditions found him wiping the problem with rolls
of paper towels, using dueling blowtorches and finally employing the help
of a bystander to dry holds as he climbed. After nine hard fought days Sonny
finally got crisp conditions and hiked it, suggesting a grade of V12. Elsewhere
in the forest, Prince George transplant Dan Gaebel made a steep, new addition
by the Squamish Jumpstart. Physics Hyperbole is an aesthetic V8 that should
become a popular stop on the circuit. What probably wonÚt be so popular
is the new slab test-piece Black Slabbath (V7). Jeremy Blumel topped out
this high, brutally technical and frightening friction slab that is sure
to keep the crowds away, despite its beauty. Finally, local Jordan Wright
grabbed a quick repeat of the famous Egg problem (V11) before setting his
sights on the east overhang of the Octagon boulder. With an apparent lack
of fear, Jordan leaped and cranked his way up this new V6 for a clean ascent,
adding yet another classic highball to the growing list in the forest. Contrary
to popular belief, people do still climb with a rope, and Sonnie TrotterÚs
desperate sport-bouldering addition from last year, Silent Menace, succumbed
to two quick ascents late in the winter. Locals Jamie Chong and Dan Poggi
both found perfect, cold conditions and ticked the 5.14a without wasting
any time. Also worthy of mention is ChongÚs recent ascent of the Mandela
in Bishop. After six hard-fought days and some shredded skin, a localÚs
beta finally helped unlock the crux sequence and Chong fired it next go.
This closely follows a quick ascent by CalgaryÚs Lev Pinter who climbed
the problem using SharmaÚs original beta instead of the new, improved sequence.
Pinter on the same trip sent the Butter Milker, which is widely believed
to be harder. In other news, the popular free camping at the Mamquam River
also remains closed. This is unlikely to change and travelling climbers
are advised to check out the provincial park campground at the base of the
Chief. With such a great location and the ability to reduce the cost by
sharing your site, this is probably the best option.
Correspondent: Marc Bourdon
Alberta Access Update
So far, mostly, thankfully - cross your fingers - the devoted can
get out and get after it pretty much anywhere they choose in Southern Alberta.
The limits that are in place amount mainly to issues of inconvenience. Almost
all established boulders, crags, and peaks are open, and climbing on them
is recognized as legitimate recreational use. However, sometimes, in some
places, just getting to a route can be exceedingly irritating. This is mainly
because, at least in climbers’ imagination, the rules are seen to be
unfairly and unequally applied.
Current examples of this include the many private roads through public lands
that are closed to recreational traffic. Shell Oil has closed the Canyon
Creek road, leading to the crags and ice caves at Moose Mountain near Bragg
Creek; only company vehicles with keys are able to pass the barriers. Climbers
must walk or bicycle to this established area, where once they could drive
to within metres of the routes. Likewise, preferential treatment allows
only Banff Springs Golf Course and National Parks employees to drive past
the Spray River Bridge in winter. This closure has doubled the approach
distance to popular ice climbs like Professor Falls or Sea of Vapours on
the North Face of Mt. Rundle.
Lafarge Cement has cut a quarry halfway up the South Face of Grotto Mountain.
To access the tantalizing rock at Bataan, climbers must walk uphill for
45 minutes from the highway just to reach a huge graveled parking area at
the end of a restricted road they are forbidden to use.
When installing the tremendously popular sport climbs at Grassi Lakes above
Canmore, a local activist invested a great deal of effort in trail work
to direct foot traffic throughout the area. Unfortunately, the provincial
utility that manages the land thought this might encourage misuse for which
they would subsequently be held responsible. The company insisted that all
timbers and stairs be removed. Today the area is a dusty and eroding, but
still popular mess.
Carrot Creek, once the hard heart of cragging in the Bow Valley, has also
had its trails deconstructed, this time in the name of preserving a wildlife
corridor. Climbing is still permitted in the canyon if you can scramble
over all the trees that Parks Service has felled to obstruct the path. The
Big Rock at Okotoks, perhaps the most famous boulder in Canada, has been
the subject of a land management review for the past several years. After
some confusion and intermittent enforcement of a ban, climbing is now recognized
as a heritage activity at The Big Rock and only discouraged on its south
(highway) side, near sensitive aboriginal markings. See www.calgarymountainclub.com
for diagrams and details on the restrictions.
Access issues that are still pending in Alberta revolve around managed use
discussions for the Bow Valley, and development in the Evan-Thomas area
of the Kananaskis. The security closures that will attend the upcoming G-8
Summit this June won’t even allow kids to be bused through the area
to go to school. Fight for your rights and climb while you can.
Correspondent: David Dornian
Musashi Sees a Second
and Third Ascent
First sent by Will Gadd last December, Musashi, a mixed line consisting
of a 15m roof to a 2m ice roof, has finally seen a second and third ascent.
After visiting Québec for the last of the World Cup, Aljaz Anderle
of Slovenia made the haul across the prairies to discover what the Rockies
had to offer the mixed climbing community. After a strong tour with the
World Cup, finishing 7th overall, Anderle worked the route for just three
days prior to a successful send. Considering some of the strong mixed climbers
that have attempted this route this was a great accomplishment.
Canmore’s Ben Firth, who originally bolted the route, was the third
to clip the anchors. Just before leaving for the World Cup in December Firth
came close to severing his left index finger on an attempt. While on tour
he had more bad luck, when he had the opportunity to experience what a Russian
ice tool feels like as slicing through his right forearm. After returning
from the World Cup and putting new alpine routes up in Chile, Ben set out
to finish the route. On several attempts, a key slot, held together by frozen
choss, was getting worse with every burn, continually throwing Ben off the
route. That same day, after passing the notorious 2m horizontal dyno and
on his way to a redpoint, while inverted and walking his feet up the roof
to a heel hook, a draw hanging on the route actually clipped into his crampon.
Amazed and feeling completely useless hanging on a static line just out
of reach beside him, I was sure that Ben, being 2m from his last clip would
pop off at any second and be left stranded, hanging by one foot. As he exploded
with a few expletives, I was sure he saying these words in terror so I calmly
encouraged him to untie his boot and take the whipper. Ben confidently clipped
the rope through the draw and proceeded to try and unclip the crampon and
continue for the send. Unfortunately the carabiner had cammed into the crampon
and there was no chance of getting the draw off with out a take. Finally
after recovering from injuries brought on by his tools, front points and
heel hooks, he sent in mid-April.
"I would agree with Daniel Dulac, that it felt like 14a. I have climbed
13c rock routes, which were certainly easier than this" said Firth.
Both Firth and Anderle confirmed the M-MFH, W7+ grade, saying it was definitely
the hardest thing that either of them have completed or been on.
Correspondent: Jeff Moore
The Third Canmore
Ice Climbing Festival
As the cold front from the Arctic was moving down, things were just
starting to heat up inside for the Third Canmore Ice Climbing Festival.
This year the festival started off the Thursday night with a bouldering
competition at The Vision Bouldering Gym. Armed with ice tools and shod
in climbing shoes competitors vied to be the best on plastic. The evening
was filled with all the usual antics of a bouldering competition and even
some trickery. Ben Firth pulled one out of his bag by high stepping into
his end-to-end stacked tools (that’s only possible without leashes!)
to bypass a crux move. But it took more than these shenanigans to out-do
wily veteran Will Gadd, who eventually came out on top. The women also proved
their deftness at mixed climbing with Ines Papert of Germany taking top
honours and adding some international flavour to the Festival.
The next event on tap was Friday evening’s slide show by Scott Backes.
Playing to a full house, Scott put on a no-holds-barred show that was both
entertaining and thought provoking.
Saturday was the start of the outdoor events and, as if by request, the
cold front receded and provided Canmore with warm sunny weather. The atmosphere
at the artificial ice wall was akin to a circus. On one side of the ice
wall, Booth City had representatives from all the major ice climbing gear
manufacturers: Simond, Petzl-Charlet Moser, Black Diamond and Mountain Hardwear
to name a few. At any given time, there was a line-up of beginners and veterans
who wanted to try out the ice wall and some new-fangled gear. This year,
the newest innovation, the leashless ice climbing tools, garnered the greatest
interest.
From the first resounding clang of the giant pot at the top of the ice wall,
everyone in the surrounding 10 blocks knew the games had begun: the speed
ice-climbing event! As the crowd gathered, the competitors raced up the
sheet of mushroomed ice just to get a whack at that pot. The competitors
were greeted with hoots and hollers from the enthusiastic crowd. As they
were pared down to the final six, top honours went to Scott Semple and Kim
Csizmazia. What followed, to the pleasure of the onlookers, was an impromptu
race between the winners, and a close one it was.
Saturday evening was the official evening of debauchery at Hooligan’s
Restaurant. The awards from the speed comp were handed out after a great
buffet dinner. Stories and laughs abounded and things carried on well into
the wee hours of the morning.
Margo Talbot was a testament to the evening’s festivities as she rubbed
the sleep from her eyes the next morning at the Women’s Clinic. Thirty-five
participants came out swinging tools bright and early for the mixed, women’s
and advanced ice clinics held at Haffner Creek. Karen McNeil and Kim Csizmazia
were the other instructors at the women’s clinic. Will Gadd, Sean Isaac
and Bruce Hendricks presented the mixed climbing clinic. Scott Backes offered
his insights on advanced ice climbing movement.
As the late afternoon sun set behind the mountains another fine festival
came to an end. Mike Melecki and his crew of volunteers are to be congratulated
for their hard work putting the festival together and for inspiring a great
turn out of participants and spectators. Thanks to all the sponsors that
donated prizes, demo gear and facilities.
Correspondents: Roger Chayer, Sara Rainford
Winnipeg Ice Festival
a Success
The Club d’escalade de Saint-Boniface (St.Boniface Section of
the ACC) held its second annual Ice Climbing Festival and Competition on
the 15, 16 and 17 of February 2002. Winnipeg has truly become the Canadian
hot spot for real ice in the city. Some saw it as strange, others thought
it daunting, but all 21 participants found it exhilarating to ice climb
in the city. The competition was held on a permanent six-storey ice structure
located on the banks of the Red River in the heart of Winnipeg, which offers
a variety of ice routes for both neophytes and seasoned climbers. Two events
were featured: Difficulty and Speed. The qualifying rounds took place on
Saturday. The six best climbers moved on to the finals on Sunday. On Saturday
evening Jeff Warden gave a presentation on his quest of The Seven Summits.
Jeff hopes to become the third Canadian (after Pat Morrow and Bernard Voyer)
to conquer the highest peak on each of the seven continents.
Correspondent: Club d’escalade de Saint-Boniface
Access Issues in
Popular Press
Rock climbing in Ontario is once again in the popular media. This
time, the tone is not one of promotion of the sport but of condemnation
and contempt. Recently, the headline of a syndicated article by environmental
writer Eric Volmers appeared in several local papers, stating that "Rock
climbers damage ecology of escarpment researchers say." Basing his
article largely on a paper by Michele McMillan and Douglas Larson from the
journal, Conservation Biology, Volmers gives a one-sided view of our sport.
He quotes McMillan: "climbers remove moss and lichens from trees or
soil from cliff edges to get a better grip. We are asking climbers to avoid
using branches, roots or trunks of trees to pull themselves up when they
are climbing." This is not how climbers climb.
McMillan and Larson are both affiliated with the Cliff Ecology Research
Group (CERG) at the University of Guelph. Doug Larson team’s findings
can be found in several publications: in Larson’s book, Cliff Ecology:
Patterns and Process in Cliff Ecosystems, in Michele McMillan’s graduate
thesis (supervised by Larson), "The impact of recreational rock-climbing
on the flora and land snail fauna of the Niagara Escarpment in Milton, Ontario;"
and in other articles. They state specifically, "it is hoped that this
research will aid in the formation of management strategies for the cliffs
of the Niagara Escarpment." Larson in a recent post to Gripped Website,
states, "I agree that the HRCA might use our study to club you guys
(climbers). They (Halton Region Conservation Authority) should use the study
to form policy and let the policy be dictated by long term
goal." Finally, McMillan writes, "But if they just climb the established
routes, that’s the way [climbers and the ecosystems] can co-exist."
It is clear from the tone and nature of CERG’s recommendation that
they favour limiting climbing or banning it altogether from areas of the
Escarpment.
The Conservation Authorities that manage the crown lands for the regions
of The Niagara Peninsula, Hamilton, Halton, Nottawasaga, and Grey-Sauble
have long viewed climbers as their most publicly visible risk management
activity user group. Newspaper articles such as the one by Volmers, and
one-sided research articles such as the one by McMillan and others, put
climbers in the public spotlight in a negative manner, and put pressure
on land managers to limit climbing on cliffs.
Now is the time for climbers, using the diversity of their talents, to actively
address these issues and educate the public about climbing. Grant Parkin,
an active member of Access Committee in Ontario, challenges the conclusions
of CERG when he says, "Facts in the study show there is less vegetation
in climbed areas. Maybe though, that is because climbers look to climb where
there is less vegetation." Careful development and promotion of the
sport at all levels will go a long way to alleviate cliff crowding, over
use, vegetation stresses and pollution. McMillan and others are off-base
in their perspective and short-sighted in their conclusions. Limiting climbing
to "only existing routes" will only intensify ecological stresses
in a particular area, while expanding climbing routes on less vegetated
rock faces will lessen the impact on any one area.
Rock climbing in North America is moving towards maturity. In Europe, the
sport has a greatly respected tradition and is recognized and promoted by
society and government as a positive outdoor pastime for all ages. Climbing
there has evolved to such a sophisticated degree that local municipalities
actually pay to maintain trails to climbing areas and anchors. They recognize
its value as a recreational and positive land use activity.
On the Niagara Escarpment and elsewhere in North America, instead of restricting
climbing, why not promote it as part of environmental education? Many certified
guides in Europe and North America are not only experts in climbing safety
but also very knowledgeable about the local flora and fauna. Wouldn’t
it be more reasonable if the CA’s actually began to promote climbing
in their areas to attract climbers and user fees which could be used to
maintain trails and assist municipalities to protect their environment?
Promoting the idea of guided climbing with an eco-tourism approach would
have benefits for both sides—better use of land, resources, safety,
more variety of access and outlet for creativity.
In such a brief article as this, it is difficult to cover all the issues
fully and give a good picture of the concerns on both sides. What is clear
is that climbers must stand up and support the sport. Trad, sport, hardcore,
weekend warriors, guides, adventure schools, the outdoor industry and others
must get involved in educating the public, and also themselves, about the
range, responsibilities and possibilities of our sport.
Correspondent: Harry Hoediono
New Access Fees
Things always seem to be different around Québec. It might
be because of our need to proclaim our unique situation in North America
or maybe because we like to complicate simple stuff. Since Québec
land owners could be sued if someone has an accident on their land, they
need to have some legal protection. This costs a lot of money and not a
lot of climbers associations have money to make legal arrangements with
the private cliff owners.
The FQME (Fédération Québécoise de l’Escalade
et de la Montagne), the official provincial climbers authority with over
2000 members, that has a two million dollar insurance policy, covering about
15 sites including Val-David, Kamouraska, Mont Pinnacle and some ice climbing
spots. To access these places you need to get your membership for $40 a
year or pay $8 per day. In the past, visiting climbers didn’t have
to pay, but starting this summer, they will.
Québec also has many provincial parks where they sometimes tolerate
climbing but you still have to get a yearly pass for $30 or a day pass for
$3.50. Some cliffs within those parks have been recently closed to rock
climbing because they were in the "preservation" zone. This ban
includes the Gros Bras in Parc des Grands-Jardins, all cliffs in Parc du
Bic, and all the rock inside the Malbaie River Park. Ice climbing is more
easily accepted since it doesn’t affect the rock or trees. In order
to reassure the land owners and negotiate access, the FQME is now studying
the possibility of delivering certification cards to rock climbers to make
sure they know their safety techniques. While this will be hard to enforce,
especially with long-time climbers, Louis Bergeron, the federation director,
suggests it is an excellent solution to reach the FQME primary goals of
less accidents and more cliffs to climb.
So if you want to climb in Québec, get your wallet out and call the
FQME (514.252.3004 or www.fqme.qc.ca) to make sure you will be welcomed
at your destination. For information on climbs in provincial parks call:
800.665.6527 or www.sepaq.com
Correspondent: Jean-Phillippe Villemaire
Peloquin and Morin take Flight on Hard New Ice Route
In February Jean-François Morin and Mathieu Peloquin made
the first ascent of a new route in the Sept-Iles area north of Baie Comeau.
L’Envol, their 180m climb to the right of Mulot was done all free except
for one point of aid on the first pitch and clocked in at WI 6+/7 M8. Peloquin
writes, "You start with the first pitch of the Mulot. At the first
belay you merge right and climb the thin disconnected ice flow coming down
from a break in the overhang. That's the crux 6+, probably M8, which we
did with one rest. After the first belay you go left around the overhang,
and then back right to a belay at the base of the final column. Forty metres
of 6+/7 get you to the top, with some very fragile and sometimes overhanging
ice." Near the top they dropped the drill they were using to place
bolts on lead. "It didn't touch anything until hitting the ground,"
said Peloquin, "and breaking in a thousand pieces."
Correspondent: Dave Karl
With the unfortunate closure of Sydney's climbing gym locals have been developing new boulders near Lunenburg and in just a few visits managed to climb a few dozen lines up to V5 and 8m high. Resurrection saw some traffic after being in Gripped's Beta page and received ascents by Chris Eager and Ben Blakney. The duo had the crux section dialled but kept falling from the top-out arête. They succeeded one day before snow settled in for good. Last fall a series of problems in the V8-V9 range finally saw their first repeats in over two years but two that didn't were Buckteeth (v9) and Fynished (v10) both attempted by Caldwell who also left a great project now in the works. Lastly, Climb Nova Scotia's 2nd annual Boulder Fest on Dover Island has tentatively been scheduled for June 22-23 and should again prove to be very popular.
Correspondents: Ghislain Losier
USA
It is a telling sign of the achievements and stature
of a climber when his failures attract as much attention as his successes.
Such was the case with François Legrand last year. Legrand’s
high profile six-week road trip through the US produced relatively lacklustre
results, yet it inspired more controversy than some of his better competition
results of the year. Making good on his vow to return, Legrand arrived in
late March of this year. His first stop was the Virgin River Gorge and a
rematch with Necessary Evil, considered to be a benchmark 5.14c. The route
frustrated him for nearly a week last year, however, this time around with
the much cooler spring temperature, Legrand fired it after only two days.
A missing digit doesn’t seem to be slowing Tommy Caldwell down too
much, at least on the trad front. At Sugarloaf, California, he and partner
Beth Rodden both sent Grand Illusion 5.13c. Moving on to Utah, Caldwell
dispatched Sphinx Crack 5.13b/c. Then, finally, in Yosemite Caldwell tested
out his bouldering power by sending Jerry Moffat’s The Force V11.
Spain
Josune Bereziartu,
the leading contender for the title of best female climber in the world,
has pushed the standards again. The only problem is, no one is too sure
in which discipline. Bereziartu’s latest, a repeat of La Travesia de
Balzola, straddles the grey area between a route and a boulder problem.
Nominally a traverse, La Travesia is a roof that follows the ground slightly
upwards like a boulder problem, however it also has roughly 40 moves, giving
the pump and feel of a route. Is it a 5.14c/d route or is it a V14 problem?
Whatever it is, Bereziartu is certain about one thing, it’s the hardest
thing she has done to date. strong words from a woman with a tick list that
few can top.
Edu Marin(16) and Ramon Julian(20) are two names that you will probably
see more of in the future. The duo first drew attention last summer with
a slew of hard redpoints in their home, the Basque region of Spain. This
spring they made a one week visit to Cuenca, where Marin came away with
his best onsight to date, doing not one but two 5.13ds, Molokomix and Jonny
Ma Me Moni, both on the same day. Julian went one better, in addition to
onsighting Molokomix and Moni, also both on the same day, Julian also redpointed
two 5.14a and three 5.14bs all in only two tries. Watch for hard sends to
pile up this summer with the pair out of school.
France
Frenchman Pierre
Bollinger paid a visit to Eaux Claires, Fred
Rouhling’s home crag with most of his difficult first ascents including
Akira. After two weeks Bollinger succeeded in repeating Hugh 5.14d. The
second person to repeat Hugh, Bollinger also feels the grade of 5.14d is
accurate. While he was there, Bollinger also managed to flash Fractal and
Safran, both rated 5.13d.
On a brief excursion to Sardinia, World Cup competitors Arnaud Petit and
Gerome Pouvreau decided to play to their strengths and try some onsights.
At the Calla Fuili area, Petit flashed Superscandalus
5.13d. Pouvreau, the reigning world champion had a near miss with the onsight
of Anime Salve 5.14a and had to settle for the redpoint on his second go.
Pouvreau finished the trip by onsighting Do It Now 5.13d, although he thought
the grade was probably a bit soft.
Australia
The Grampians
seem to be the focus of furious activity at the moment. Out in front is
Richard Dale of New Zealand, who within a week repeated Sleepy Hollow V13,
Mad Max, Kings Cross and Dead Can’t Dance all V12 and When We Were
Kings V11. Close behind is Aussie Sam Edward sending Ammagama V13 and Sleepy
Hollow within a few days of each other. Visiting Brit Ben Heason, however,
went for something a little different and flashed Journey Through Nicaragua
a 5.13c trad route and onsighted Contra Arms Pump, a mixed trad/sport route
that’s also 5.13c.
Patagonia
American climbers
made several record-breaking ascents in the Paine group this winter. Here
are a few of the highlights: Timmy O’Neil and Nathan Martin made the
first alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger. Stephanie Davis became the first
woman to have climbed the seven named summits of the Fitzroy Range. Dean
Potter soloed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in eight and a half hours,
and soloed the Supercouloir VI 5.9 WI 3+ on Fitzroy without a rope. He also
made the first ascent of California Roulette VI 5.10 WI 5 solo and ropeless.
The first alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger was made by Timmy O’Neil
and Nathan Martin. Steve Schneider did a 51-hour solo enchainment of the
three summits of the Paine. Sean Leary and Zac Smith made free ascents of
the North, South and Central Towers of Paine, including the first free ascent
of the Central Tower’s Bonington-Whillans VI 5.11.
Nepal
The Canadian Government warns:
"Canadians should defer from tourist travel to Nepal
until further notice. Maoist insurgents launched a series of widespread
attacks on government facilities and security forces on November 23, 2001,
resulting in the deaths of a significant number of police and army personnel.
The Government of Nepal declared a state of emergency in response to these
attacks. Bombings have occurred recently throughout Nepal, including Kathmandu
and Lukla, the main exit and entry point for the Everest trek and for other
tourist destinations in the Solu Khumbu Valley. Violence associated with
the Maoist insurgency has resulted in the deaths of over 3,000 people since
February 1996. Violence, which includes armed robbery, ransacking, destruction
of premises, and threats, has increased significantly. Violence is typically
aimed at Nepalese government offices, police, security forces and political
leaders. However, three Canadian development assistance project offices
were attacked in July 2001. Military operations continue throughout the
country and the potential for further violence continues. No particular
region or district of Nepal can be considered safe."The Maoist insurgents
themselves have issued a letter to potential tourists to whom they say.
"During wartime the unassuming traveller can be caught between the
crossfire of the contending armies".
Correspondent: Andre Cheuk
Todd Guy
Every climber has a mentor. It may be the person who taught you how to climb,
how to push yourself, or maybe the person who taught you how to have fun.
Todd Guy was my mentor and in February 2002, at the young age of 25, he
passed away suddenly. Todd grew up in Kelowna, BC and went to school at
Immaculata High. He started climbing in Grade Nine. By the age of 16 Todd
was already preparing and bolting routes in the Kelowna area. As soon as
he was able to drive he was spending all his spare time climbing or scrubbing,
going through numerous climbing partners because no one could keep up with
him. Todd established over 50 climbs in the Central Okanagan including the
first several 5.12s.
He was the type of guy that had every climbing magazine memorized, knew
every climber whose name was ever in the mags and every route of any significance
in the world. At 16 he had climbed 5.12+ and was arguably the best youth
climber in Canada. After high school Todd started working in construction
and began to lose his focus on hard climbing. He continued to develop routes
and was a constant presence at The Crux Climbing Centre. So the next time
you drop by Lonely Boy Crag, leave a dime on the ledge below Tendonitis
as a tribute to the rock gods. It helped Todd and I, and it may help you.
Thanks for the memories Big Guy, from Mike AKA Todd's Little Friend, Doyle.
Correspondent: Mike Doyle
