February - March 2007
rock news
5.14 no problem for Ramon Julian
Spaniard Ramon Julian Puigblanque went into the 2006 World Cup season gunning for the overall title. Despite showing dominant form mid-season, Puigblanque was unable to sustain the momentum for the last leg of the series. He dropped to fifth overall.
Rather than take downtime after the competition season, Puigblanque hit the rocks, perhaps to work out some frustration. The result was impressive. In a three-week streak centred around Sella, Puigblanque redpointed a 5.14c, Espacio Oceano and two 5.14bs. Even more impressive was his onsight of Malsonando 5.14b (his third 5.14c redpoint and one more than anyone else) and El Ultimo Mono 5.14a. Puigblanque wound down his vacation with a few 5.14a redpoints and a slew of 5.13 onsights, showcasing the high level at which leading World Cup competitors operate.
Breakout Year for Eduard Marin Garcia
As good a climber as Ramon Julian Puigblanque may be, his longtime training partner Eduard Marin Garcia may prove to be even better. At least that’s long been the assertion of their mutual coach David Macia. The younger Garcia (21 years vs. 26 years for Ramon) has been steadily improving under the shadow of his more famous partner, but his result in the second half of 2006 seems to confirm his coach’s faith.
Garcia began this summer by taking his maiden World Cup victory in Chamonix, and going on to feature regularly on the podium, but the sign of things to come may be his redpoints of the classics at Siurana this winter.
Garcia got off to flying start by sending the Andrada-established test piece Estado Critico, a long endurance affair that goes at 9a (5.14d). Next, he tried and sent the comparatively powerful A Muerte, also 5.14d, put up by the visiting Brit Rich Simpson, the route’s first repeat. With the two redpoints bolstering his confidence, Garcia went for the area plum line La Rambla Original. The 140 ft long route takes a thin fissure up the imposing 30 degree overhanging section of the cliff near La Rambla, taking a straight-up finish with a stiff boulder problem guarding the chains. Many world-class climbers – including Dave Graham, Yuji Hirayama, Chris Sharma and local strongman Dani Andrada – vied for the first repeat. Garcia, however, clearly in fine form, managed to pip all comers for the second ascent. Having done three 5.14d plus routes in a matter of weeks, Garcia reportedly has turned his sights toward the controversial 5.15c Chilam Balam by Bernabe Fernandez.
American in Spain
While the outdoor season draws to a close almost everywhere else in the northern hemisphere, the sport crags of Spain were just coming into prime condition in late November. Dave Graham arrived to take advantage of the sunny yet mild temps. Graham dispatched the fingery and powerful pocket pulling of A Muerte 5.14d, a climb that suits his cable-like tendons, but was stymied by the much longer La Rambla Original. In typical style, Graham offhandedly suggested A Muerte may be 5.14c rather than 5.14d. Simpson posted a lengthy response on the Internet:
“Throughout my time as a climber I tended to avoid these ‘holiday grades,’ as we Brits put it, found in the likes of Magic Wood, Gorge Du Loup, Colorado etc, etc – where it seems everyone can flash 8b boulders and climb 8b+ with relative ease. Instead, I tried to take a more innovative approach by climbing in areas such as the Peak District, Frankenjura, Buoux and Siurana, where only the very best can climb 8b boulders and 8c+/9a routes. It is through this experience that I believe that El Muerte is a ‘proper’ 9a. El Muerte is, in my opinion the hardest route I have climbed, thus being harder than Action Directe, Hubble, Unplugged and also harder than many other 9a I have tried – Rainshadow, Northern Lights etc. Obviously grades are subjective, but I struggle to see how El Muerte could be considered as 8c+ (even though I rather naively suggested that myself). If El Muerte is 8c+, then everything else in the world must go down by at least one or two grades (Kinematrix 8c, Action Directe 8c+ anyone?)”
Sharma Strolls La Rambla
While Graham was causing a mild fracas, Chris Sharma switched from his latest obsession of deep-water soloing to rope up for a crack at La Rambla, seemingly the climb du jour for the world’s top climbers. Apparently fit from his deep-water soloing exploits, Sharma impressively dispatched the climb in under 20 attempts.
La Rambla has bouted the efforts of such climbers as Yuji Hirayama, Dani Andrada and Christian Bindhammer; not exactly a weak bunch. Even more impressive is the fact that the other two successful ascensionists, Puigblanque and Garcia, are known to have gruelling training regimes with weight programs, cyclical workouts, timed peak and rest period and electro-stimulus devices for recovery. Sharma’s approach is decidedly less disciplined, raising the question: just how much more natural talent does Sharma possess compared to other top climbers?
Repeat of Abyss 9a+
German Andreas Bindhammer has repeated The Abyss, a possible new 9a+ or 5.15a in Deverse, France. Put up just this summer by Alex Chabot, the acutely overhanging line offers extremely sustained climbing, without any rest in the 40 moves between the ground and the anchors.
It took Bindhammer around 50 tries over 16 climbing days within a six-week period to bag the second ascent. Bindhammer concurs with Chabot’s assessment that The Abyss seems to be 9a at least, but adds that it is tough to be sure as he is unused to such a sustained style of climbing. But feels he is sufficiently strong on the steeply angled climbing on pinches to tentatively suggest 5.14d/5.15a.
V15 from Dai
Dai Koyamada is up to his usual tricks again, putting up boulder problems featuring impossibly shallow monos and two finger pockets. Orochi V15 at Kanoto, Tokyo, links a seven-move traverse to an existing V11 with a dyno finish. Hydra[G], also V15, climbs out a roof on a series of monos and bad two finger pockets, and is a variation of the almost identically named Hydra V13. Hydra[G] has six independent moves at around V11/12, linking into the beginning of Hydra.
Soumission
Fred Rouhling has put up a new 20-move boulder problem at Le Bourrinoire, France. Soumission climbs a 15 m roof, with long pulls off small holds. Rouhling suggests 8b+/8c or V14/15 and he believes it is very solid for the proposed grade. Frenchman Rouhling is no stranger to big numbers or grading controversy, having proposed 5.15b for Akira (unrepeated) back in 1996. The fact that Soumission is in his favoured style – roof climbing on bad holds, and he has a big ape index, adds credence to his claims. There has recently been some discussion concerning the grading of longer boulder problems. Many feel that endurance problems (boulder routes of 15 moves or more) may be better described with a route grade rather than a bouldering grade. –Andre Cheuk
mountain news
Seven Summits Record: Bass vs. Messner Lists
In November, experienced Canadian climber and guide Dan Griffith, of Invermere, BC, reached the summit of the Cartensz Pyramid, (4,884 m). It was his last tick from the list of the seven highest points on the seven continents. And, at 187 days, it was the world speed record. But, according to the Times of India, Malli Mastan Babu of Andhra Pradesh, India, not only conquered the peaks in 172 days, but climbed each peak in a different calendar month and on a different day of the week. “I am the first person from the Andhra Pradesh to climb the Everest,” says Mastan Babu. “I aspired to dream big and that is my message to youngsters.”
The two did not, however, climb the same mountain in Australasia. Mastan Babu climbed Mt Kosciuszko (2,228 m) an easy hike in Australia. Griffith struggled through the jungles of Papua to scale the technical and remote Cartensz Pyramid. Although the Indian returned to climb the Cartensz Pyramid as well, he reached its summit 281 days after he began.
Two climbers holding records for the seven summits illuminates a standing controversy. Mastan Babu used the list made in 1986 by American millionaire adventurer Dick Bass, the first to reach the seven summits. In 1987, Reinhold Messner pointed out that the geographical boundaries of Australasia encompass New Guinea, bumping Kosciuszko off the list in favour of the Cartensz Pyramid, which Griffith considered the hardest peak on the list. The Messner List was first climbed by Canadian Pat Morrow.
Death and Illegality in Nepal, Tibet and China
“Twenty-five per cent of climbers operating in Nepal climb illegally,” says Deebas Shah, the General Secretary of the Nepal Mountaineering Association. One quarter of Western climbers avoid high peak fees (for example, $25,000 for a team of four on Mt Everest) by paying for smaller mountains but climbing bigger, more expensive ones. Nepal, the poorest country in Asia (ranking behind Congo and Bangladesh in the global Human Development Index), needs the money, but the fines for peak-stealing are relatively light, and enforcement is difficult.
The serious side of illegal climbing was shown when French climbers Stefan Cieslar, Jean-Baptiste Moreau, Raphael Perrissin and Vincent Villidieu, who had registered to climb Paldor (5,719 m), disappeared in November. Instead of Paldor, they crossed illegally into Tibet to Ganesh Himal 7 (7,242 m), a mountain not open for climbing. A French mountain rescue team searched for them on Paldor, unaware of their change of itinerary, until they saw evidence of the men climbing on the Tibetan side of the border.
For Asians, Himalayan borders are not to be taken lightly. Chinese soldiers shot Tibetans attempting to cross to Nepal near Cho Oyu basecamp in November.
In other Nepal news, a ceasefire between the ruling Monarchist regime and the Maoist rebels was signed on November 21, 2006. Most heavy weapons will be collected by the UN, but the rebels remain free to possess a small number of weapons in each camp and to carry out “light military drills.” Over 13,000 Nepalis have been killed during the civil war, which has made travel in the Nepalese mountains much more dangerous for climbers.
Polish Veterans Put Nanga Parbat in Winter on their “Old Shoulders”
Survivors of one of the greatest generations of alpinists, the Polish Himalayan climbers of the 90s are struggling to claim first winter ascents of all of the 8,000 m peaks in the face of their increasing age and declining interest from younger Polish climbers. In December, they attacked Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face, led by 59-year-old Wielicki Krzysztof, first winter ascensionist of Everest and climber of all 14 8,000ers. Other experienced expedition climbers include Jan Szulc, Artur Hazjer and Krzysztof Tarasewicz, all well over 40.
Polish climbers have already made the first winter ascents of Everest in 1980, Manaslu in 1984, Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri in 1985, Kangchenjunga in 1986, Lhotse in 1988 and Shishapangma in 2005. K2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and II, Makalu, Annapurna and Broad Peak remain.
Krzysztof’s passionate entreaty to the younger generation of Polish climbers presented to the Polish Mountaineering Federation emphasizes that they trade “fear (of) the violation of their individuality” for “a male adventure, with teamwork.” If they do not, he warns, “we shall have to take it on our old shoulders, without guarantee of success.” Only by rising to the challenge of the remaining winter 8,000ers can Polish climbers “join Europe, with our head held high and with self-esteem.”
A Piolet d’Or for Asians
Now Asians have their own version of the world’s most prestigious alpine prize. The Piolet d’Or prize awarded by the French Groupe de Haute Montagne and Montagnes magazine for the hardest alpine route in the world, has been a flashpoint for controversy since it was first awarded in 1991. In 2005, British alpinist Ian Parnell withdrew his nomination for an ascent of the South West Ridge of Annapurna III (7,555 m) in Nepal. Last year, the short list included Ermanno Salvaterra’s, Rolando Garibotti’s and Alessandro Beltram’s ascent of a hard new climb on Cerro Torre, close to the line claimed by Cesare Maestri, but withdrew their names, charging that the award fostered commercialism and competition. In previous years, judges have been accused of favouring both European and American ascents, giving the prize to climbs that are spectacular but done in poor style and generally encouraging competition and commercialism. Critics like American climber Steve House have complained that the award is pointless when they lost, yet accepted it gladly when they won.
Now, at least the issue of regionalism will be addressed to some degree, since there is an Asian version of the award, co-sponsored by Korean magazine Men and Mountains. The first Asian award has gone to the powerful team of Serguey Samoilov and Denis Urubko of Kazakhstan for their new route on Nepal’s Manaslu. (A Japanese party was nominated for the first ascent of a hard new route in Alaska and a Korean team was nominated for the third ascent of Thalay Sagar).
The award dinner and ceremony was held in Seoul, and 500 attended. Although European climbing is much more clubby and organized than North American climbing, it pales next to Asian climbing. The Korean Alpine Federation has well over a million members, and the numerous organizations, such as the Japanese Workers Alpine Federation, which boast tens of thousands are considered small. By comparison, the American Alpine Club has about 5,000 members. The culture of organized climbing in Asia may clash less with the idea of the Piolet d’Or than does North American climbing. In Asian former-USSR states like Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, the vacuum left behind with the evaporation of the institutionalized communist system of training and awards may be partly filled by this prize.
It seems that climbers can qualify for both prizes, because Urubko and Samoilov have made the short list for the Piolet d’Or. –Gripped
obituaries
Todd Skinner, American Free Climber
1959–2006
On October 25, American climber Todd Skinner fell to his death when his harness belay loop broke. He and Jim Hewitt were descending a new route project on Yosemite’s Leaning Tower.
Skinner was one of the most influential figures in the history of North American rock climbing. He first came to attention as a pioneer of sportclimbing whose attempts to introduce rappel cleaned, hangdogged, pre-protected routes were controversial. Subsequently, numerous first ascents on big walls around the world solidified his reputation as a talented, driven climber with a penchant for long, remote free routes.
Skinner was born in Pinedale, Wyoming. His father, Robert, was a climber who taught Todd the ropes in the Wind River Range at the age of 10. Skinner attended the University of Wyoming and then dedicated himself to cragging throughout North America, where he touched the lives of hundreds of other rock climbers.
After climbing many of the hardest existing trad routes and developing dozens of his own, Skinner took the next step and introduced European sport climbing tactics to Yosemite. In 1985, The Stigma, a thin single pitch aid crack at the Cookie, became a crucible of changes embroiling the whole climbing world. Skinner pre-protected it with pitons and worked out the moves.Their removal made it clear that the Valley was not ready for Skinner’s philosophy that “we’re climbers, not protectionists.”
Skinner made a virtue out of his temporary exile from the epicentre of North American climbing, travelling throughout North America to climb new routes, discover and develop new areas and become a personality. For years he lived in his van or a teepee, travelling, developing his skills and making friends.
One of the most influential outcomes of this creative period was the popularization of Hueco Tanks in West Texas. There he climbed The Gunfighter 5.13b, a hangdogged, overhanging crack, along with numerous bolted lines. Several talented photographers shot Skinner there and the published images drew many climbers to the area.
In 1988, Skinner was in the Valley again to bring the methods he used on short climbs to big wall climbing. He and longterm partner Paul Piana spent almost 50 days on the Salathe Wall, eventually freeclimbing the route, with some variations and hanging belays on the headwall. The Salathe was followed by successes on more remote walls: Mt Proboscis in the Northwest Territories, the Direct Northwest face on Half Dome, the North Face of Mt Hooker in Wyoming, the east face of Trango Tower in the Karakoram, The Hand of Fatima in Mali, Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland and the East Face of Poi in Kenya. Many of these routes brought a level of free climbing to remote and high altitude routes that had never been seen before.
Skinner torqued his accruing list of ascents for maximum publicity to become one of North America’s first professional climbers. His adventures were reported in national publications such as USA Today, National Geographic, Time and Outside, as well as the mainstream climbing media. Skinner became an American adventure celebrity, with his Western persona. He had favourite guns (“Winchesters, Colts, and Plains rifles”) and referred to himself as a cowboy who “pulled down his hat,” when things got tough. The Trango climb was named Cowboy Direct.
Some climbers questioned the effect the desire for publicity had on Skinner’s ascents. Rumours circulated that he had not redpointed some sections of his routes, but his supporters pointed out that those who levelled them often harboured a lingering resistance to sport climbing and the commercialization of rock climbing.
Subsequent climbers on El Capitan and other walls have spent less time to do things harder and faster, but Skinner’s innovative approach of bringing the sport climbing ethic to the widest possible rock climbing venue remains his greatest innovation.
He inspired and touched the lives of many Canadian climbers including close friends and influential figures like Chris Oates and Scott Milton. He is survived by his wife Amy and children Hannah, Jake and Sarah.
Skinner Memorial Fund
c/o Atlantic City Federal Credit Union
704 W. Main Street, Lander, WY 82520
Phone: 307-332-5151
Harald Berger
1972–2006
All-round Austrian climber Harald Berger was killed on December 21 when the glacier ice cave at Hintersee Flachachau he was bouldering in collapsed.
Best known for his mixed and ice comp achievements, he won six World Cups. On ice, Berger’s impressive c.v. included The Game M13, in the Canadian Rockies and many hard first ascents in Europe. Prolific on alpine sport big walls, he loved Switzerland’s Rätikon, where he repeated 5.14 big walls like Sillbergeier and added Antihydral, a six-pitch 5.13d. In 2006, he made the first ascent of a 16-pitch new route in Madagascar.
Berger will be missed by many for his good-natured, unassuming approach as well as his unique breadth of skills. He is survived by his wife Kristen Buchman and his daughter Zoe, born on Dec. 20.
Charlie Fowler
1954-2006 &
Christine Boskoff
1967-2006
In early December, 2006, Charlie Fowler and his partner Christine Boskoff disappeared in a remote region of Sichuan province, China. On December 27, searchers located Fowler’s body. He appears to have been swept down Yangmalong Peak by an avalanche. Boskoff’s body had not been found at the time of writing.
Both were amongst the most experienced mountaineers in North America. Fowler, born in West Virginia, moved to Colorado after taking up climbing and, after mastering ice and rock climbing, became a prolific new router all over North America. His most notable ascents range from a solo of the Harlin Direct on the North Face of the Eiger and innumerable new desert cracks. In the film Escoba dos Dios, (1997), climbers got a first-hand look at his nerve and skills as he led the crux A4 pitches of a new big wall route on Patagonia’s Cerro Catedral. A prolific writer, photographer and filmmaker, Fowler’s images and words graced all the major climbing and adventure media, including Gripped. Fowler married the enthusiasm of an iconoclastic individualist with a passion for traditions preserving the experience and adventure in climbing.“The real milestones in climbing,” Fowler once told Climbing magazine, “are not made by those doing what everybody else is doing.”
A prolific guide, Fowler ran Mountain Madness with his partner, Christine Boskoff. Boskoff began climbing in 1993 and quickly became one of North America’s most active female Himalayan climbers. She had climbed Lhotse, Shishapangma, Everest, Gasherbrum II, Cho Oyu and Broad Peak, scoring more 8,000 m peaks than any other North American woman.
Eric Brand, Yosemite Legend
1954–2006
On September 30, 2006, American big wall pioneer Eric Brand died in his home in Silver City, New Mexico. He started climbing in 1977 and his first big wall was a winter ascent of the West Face of Leaning Tower. He made the first ascents of big Valley aid routes Disco Strangler on Leaning Tower, Ten Days After and Saddam Hussein on Washington Column, as well as Heartland and Genesis on El Capitan.
A proponent of remote big wall climbing, Brand made the first ascent of Whale of the Winds on the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia and the Book of Shadows on Nameless Tower in Pakistan.
His most well-known climb was the epic first ascent of the West Face of Mt Thor on Baffin Island in 1985. On this 33-day climb, Brand, Earl Redfern, John Bagley and Tom Bepler travelled in capsule style and overcame long pitches of loose, scary A4. Brand described the climb as “extremely enjoyable.” The ascent of this last great problem opened the eyes of big wallers to the possibilities of remote granite walls and inspired many similar ascents around the world.
Brand is survived by his wife Carol.
