October - November 2007

news

Bindhammer and Knorr Check Out Hotel Supramonte
Located in Sardinia’s Gola di Gorroppu and established in 1998, Hotel Supramonte 8b (5.13d) is one of the many difficult European multipitch sport climbs still awaiting an onsight. It was with this goal that Christian Bindhammer and Damaris Knorr recently set out to climb the highly technical and exposed 400 m route. The pair onsighted up to the third pitch 8b (5.13d) but a fall on the last move of the fourth pitch ended their onsight attempt. While investigating the upper pitches, Bindhammer unfortunately injured his foot and the pair retreated to rest and recover. Five days later, Bindhammer and Knorr returned and redpointed the 10-pitch line in nine hours. Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani originally climbed Hotel Supramonte with one point of aid after five days of work. The line was later freed by Pietro dal Prà in 2000.–GA.

Spectacular Season in Ceuse
The sportclimbing mecca of Ceuse is seeing a surprising amount of activity, with the addition of a difficult new route and the repeat of an established testpiece. The majority of the action comes from the US powerhouse team of Chris Sharma and Dave Graham. Sharma struck first with the addition of a new 9a (5.14d). Three Degrees of Separation 9a (5.14d) is located approximately 100 ft to the right of Sharma’s breakthrough route, Realization 9a+ (5.15a), and numerous attempts were required to nail the difficult bouldery sequences and three mandatory dynos.

There is speculation that this new route is simply a warm-up for Sharma’s attempted redpoint of a difficult open project at Clark Mountain near Las Vegas. Clark Mountain, an imposing limestone crag located in California just 40 miles south of Vegas, was discovered by the prolific first ascensionist Randy Leavitt in the spring of 1992. Leavitt established the majority of the routes, from classics Jumbo Pumping Hate 5.13d and Tusk 5.14a to several futuristic projects. It is rumoured Sharma is working an unfinished line that, if sent, could redefine the standards of difficulty in sportclimbing.

In contrast to Sharma’s understatements, Graham is well known for his frenetic energy and staggering ticklist of difficult repeats and first ascents. The one route that has continually rebuffed his attempts is Realization. Not content with Sharma getting all the attention, on July 30 Graham finally repeated Realization 9a+ (5.15a), adding another 5.15a to his 8a.nu scorecard. This is the fourth ascent of the line that has seen repeats by Sylvain Millet and Patxi Usobiaga.–GA

Trotter Continues on his Path
Having recently moved to Alberta, Canadian climbing star Sonnie Trotter has again turned his attention to cleaning up unfinished local projects. When not sampling the high quality limestone sportclimbing, Trotter was working an abandoned line at the Back of the Lake. The route was equipped about 20 years ago but had not been climbed due to the difficult moves and bouldery sequences. Inspecting the line on rappel, Trotter discovered sufficient natural protection and decided to chop the existing bolts. Over the next five weeks, Trotter spent 10 days working the route on toprope and lead, redpointing the line on August 20. The Path 5.14 R is 45 m long, overhangs about 30 feet and involves four difficult 5.13 sections ending with a V10 crux and approximately 30 feet of runout climbing to the anchors. The difficult crux sequence consists of a long sideways lunge to an edge the size of a broken pencil, resulting in a strenuous iron cross between small holds. Trotter feels “it’s solid 5.14” and is “stoked that climbs of this nature are becoming more and more feasible.” Having established a long track record of finishing existing unclimbed projects, we can only hope Trotter focuses some of his skill and energy on the vast first ascent potential in the Canadian Rockies. –GA

Successful Summer for European Alpine Free Routes
The trend towards difficult alpine free routes continued at an amazing rate this summer in Europe with Iker and Eneko Pou redpointing seven significant routes in the Alps over a month-long period. The talented Basque brothers managed what is considered the first onsight ascent of the 270 m Cleopatra 7c (5.12d) in Wendestock, Switzerland. This warm-up was followed a few days later with an onsight of Batman 7b+ (5.12c) 270 m in Wendestock and a redpoint of the classic Rätikon route New Age 8a (5.13b) 200 m.
The brothers then channelled their energy towards the redpoint of Elefantenohr 7c+ (5.13a) 320 m in Wendestock and successful onsights of Blau Lagune 7b+ (5.12c) 320 m and Legacy 7b+ (5.12c) 320 m. Continuing at this unstoppable pace, the brothers also redpointed Super Weismüller 8a/a+ (5.13b/c) 300 m in the French Pyrenees. For many climbers, these grades would be significant as sport climbing accomplishments, but the Pou brothers managed this feat in a mountain setting on routes with hundreds of metres of climbing.

A climber previously associated with difficult sport climbing is now also contributing to the European bigwall free climbing frenzy. This summer, Alexander Huber freed the severely overhanging route Pan Aroma 8c (5.14b) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The route climbs the first five pitches of Huber’s Bellavista 8c (5.14b) before breaking out on an independent line through a 40 m roof. The route was originally aid climbed by Gerhard Baur, Walter Rudolph and Erich Rudolph in 1968 and became known as the “biggest roof on earth.” Like most big alpine free routes, Huber describes Pan Aroma as “fairly demanding both physically and psychologically, you have to know how to climb above quite long run-outs.”

Adding to the growing list of difficult European alpine free routes, Mauro Bubu Bole succeeded on the first free ascent of the 750 m Donnafugata 8a (5.13b). The route was first climbed in 2004 by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli at 7a (5.11d) A2 and is characterized by relatively well-protected and continuous face climbing up a steep wall. Bubu required five days to free the route, eventually climbing it in one continuous 13.5 hour push. –GA

Hard Redpoints in the East – Long Enchainments in the West
Playing to each area’s strengths, climbers in two of Canada’s top climbing areas set new standards for difficult ascents this summer. Taking advantage of the warm and dry conditions, local climber Sylvain Masse nabbed the third ascent of the Québec
testpiece La Zébrée 5.14a. The difficult overhanging crack line suffers from seepage, which hampered the initial ascent of Jeff Beaulieu and subsequent repeat of Jean-Pierre Ouellet. Originally climbed with preplaced protection, La Zébrée was repeated by Ouellet placing all the gear on lead. Acknowledging that the standard was raised, Masse eschewed preplaced pro and placed all his gear on lead, making his ascent the second true redpoint.

In the west, Squamish locals Matt Maddaloni and Paul Cordy completed an incredible enchainment of hard climbing. The pair started the day by climbing Seasoned in the Sun 5.10, ran up the eight-pitch University Wall 5.12a and continued up the
Roman Chimneys for four more pitches at 5.11a. Reaching the summit of the Squamish Chief, they ran to the base and mountain biked to the Zodiac Wall, where they climbed the 12-pitch The Northern Lights 5.12a. Returning to the base, Maddaloni and Cordy flew up the 12 pitches of Freeway 5.11c/d for a one-day total of 37 pitches. The inspiration for the linkup came from Sig Issac’s 1996 enchainment of University Wall 5.12a, Northern Lights 5.12a and Freeway 5.11c/d.–GA

Boskoff’s Body Found
The body of Christine Boskoff, who went missing last November, has been found. Charlie Fowler, disappeared while climbing in China last fall. Fowler’s body was found in December at the base of Mt Genyen, 6,204 m, in Sichuan Province, China. Unfortunately, winter conditions halted the search for Boskoff, which resumed this spring. Boskoff‘s body was located near the area where Fowler was found, leading authorities to conclude the pair were caught in an avalanche. Boskoff was a renowned American climber with six 8,000 m peaks in her resume.–GA

Busy Summer in Pakistan
The peaks of Pakistan were home to both triumph and defeat this summer as several new routes were put up followed by various ascents. Alongside successful ascents, the unpredictable climate and unstable terrain turned down all types of climbers on their attempts to reach the summit. The developing current affairs in Islamabad also caused problems for the much-anticipated Pakistani Women’s Climbing Camp.

The American team of Doug Chabot, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson made the first ascent of a 6,166 m peak they named the Trident, above the Chaktoi Glacier. After two and a half days of moderate climbing they reached the summit on June 25, 2007. Following their success they attempted the legendary unclimbed North Ridge of 7,145 m Latok I. Hoping for good early season ice conditions to bypass the steep rock pillar at the bottom, after 2,700 ft they were stopped by unprotectable deep snow. It took three hours of tunnelling and digging to climb the last 50 ft on day three.

Pakistan’s big granite walls were also home to several new climbs. Following
20 days of effort, Russian climbers Evgeny Korol, Andrey Muryshev, Sergey Nilov, and Denis Savel’ev reached the top of 5,852 m Shipton Spire’s vertical granite southeast face on July 30. The 32-pitch, 6b A4 line has yet to be named.

Two other Russian climbing teams completed big-wall routes on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower. A four-man team climbed a new line on the right side of the 2,000 m wall in six days, three quarters of the route being freed. Their line crosses the right shoulder of the wall and joins the Azeem Ridge in its upper half, ending below Great Trango’s 6,250 m southwest summit. The second team of six men took 11 days to complete a route on the left side of the face that had nearly been climbed by a Ukrainian team in 2003. The team pushed to the southwest summit on July 16.

In the highest peaks, Italians Daniele Bernasconi and Karl Unterkircher reached the summit of 8,035 m Gasherbrum II on July 20. After fixing about 1,200 m of rope over the lower part of the face, the third member of their original team, Michele Compagnoni, turned back just 150 m below the top. 

Politics continue to influence climbing in the region. On July 16, the Pakistani Women’s Climbing Camp, a collaborative effort between the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Pakistan to introduce Pakistani women to climbing and mountaineering in a socially acceptable manner, was cancelled. The course for one hundred women, which was to be followed by an attempt on the Kusheikh Peak (5,979 m) was scheduled at a time of increased tension throughout Pakistan. When the siege of the Red Mosque in Islamabad started on July 4, many hoped the crisis would be resolved through negotiation. The military’s action on the mosque, however, led to various disturbances and the eventual decision to cancel the course, just hours before the scheduled departure.–AR

Himalayan Action – Old School vs New School
Embracing old school siege tactics, this August the Russians demonstrated their fondness for mercilessly pursuing difficult new mountain routes with the successful first ascent of the West Face of K2. In a 10-week effort, the Russian team fixed ropes on almost the entire length of the climb, establishing seven camps on the face including two camps above 8,000 m. Although their siege approach received criticism from members of the mountaineering community, the significance of the ascent cannot be dismissed. Until now, the West Face had remained unclimbed due to usual difficulties associated with any 8,000 m peak combined with a challenging 1,000 m rock face. Although traditional expedition tactics were employed, the team eschewed supplemental oxygen even while spending four days camped above 8,000 m. The expedition was led by veteran Russian climber Viktor Kozlov and included members from the successful 2005 Everest and 2004 Jannu Russian expeditions.

In the K7 region, a strong Belgian team consisting of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and including Polish climber Adam Pustelnik took a new school approach, adding three massive rock routes. Starting at the base of a 1,200 m wall, the team free climbed in big wall style for a total of 16 days, fixing minimal gear and only aiding a short 5 m icy crack that would have been trivial during better conditions. Named the Badal Wall and clocking in at 5.12d, the route topped out at 6,000 m and provided great acclimatization for the team’s next goal. Climbing in classic alpine style, the team added the 28-pitch Ledgeway to Heaven 5.12d in a 37-hour round-trip push. Not satisfied with the new ticklist and with a few days remaining before having to leave base camp, Nico Favresse, Villanueva, and another Polish climber completed a new
eight-pitch route named The Ski Track 5.11.–GA

Kauk, Papert and Bereziartu Join Locals for the Squamish Mountain Festival
From July 13–21, building on the successful festivals of the last two seasons, the Squamish Access Society and the Climbers Access Society of British Columbia presented an incredible line-up of evening presentations, raised $10,000 for access and attracted climbers from as far away as Switzerland.

The quality of the visiting presenters reflects the festival’s growing prestige. In a single evening, German all-rounder Ines Papert and Basque rock superstar Josune Bereziartu were preceded by Yosemite legend Ron Kauk. Papert spoke about her trip to Iceland with Canadian Audrey Gariépy while Bereziartu discussed the attitudes and philosophies that led her to become one of the world’s best rock climbers. Kauk’s presentation reflected on the decades long relationship to nature that has been the hallmark of his career.
Squamish local legends, including Perry Beckham and Kevin McLane, presented during the week on the history of climbing in the area. The centrepiece of the trade fair at the Adventure Centre was the Flashed Bouldering Wall where a dyno comp was held on July 14. Apparently, the women’s world record was broken by a Swiss climber named Lavinia (last name unknown) who dynoed 2.1 m.

When local guiding talent, including Scott Milton, Chris Geisler, Sean Isaac and Matt Maddaloni, offers free clinics, it’s no surprise that clinics fill quickly. Climbers from across North America got a chance to sample the guiding skills and knowledge these professionals offer year-round.

Thanks go out to organizers Ivan Hughes and John Irvine, all of the sponsors of the event and especially key sponsors Mountain Equipment Co-op and Arc’teryx.–DCS

 

obituaries

Caroline Cheung
1975–2007
Caroline Cheung always had a ready smile and enthusiasm for what was at hand, whether working as a neurological physiotherapist, racking up for a climb, or looking over her skis. She was a beautiful person with an old soul, and a passion for the outdoors.
This passion began with learning to ski behind the Beacon Hill mall in Gloucester, Ontario. Even as a little girl, she would beg her dad to allow her one more run before heading in for the night. This endless enthusiasm never left her.

It was while studying physiotherapy at McGill that she discovered climbing and backcountry skiing. Through these new activities, she soon forged new friendships along with a new passion. After graduating in 1998, she moved to Vancouver to be closer to the mountains, where she joined the British Columbia Mountaineering Club to learn new skills and meet new people. Even though she was an accomplished climber, climbing, for Caroline, was never about pushing physical limits. It was about having fun, bonding with friends, experiencing the outdoors and living in the present moment.

In 2001, Caroline went trekking in Nepal for three months. Shortly after returning, she met her future husband, a fellow physiotherapist who shared her love of the outdoors. They quickly set off on a five-month trip to South East Asia. After 20 days of travelling by bus, and growing tired of the disconnected sensation of passing through the countryside under motor power, the two decided to try cycle touring. For Caroline, this would be a completely new experience, yet, as was her custom, she embraced it with enthusiasm. In northeastern Thailand, the couple bought two inexpensive bikes, strapped their backpacks to rear racks, and set off with only a faint plan.

Immediately, the challenges arose. The goal for their first day was to ride 100 km to the next town with lodging. Soon after starting the ride, they were confronted with a 1000 m hill climb. It began to rain heavily, and with only cotton clothes for protection any semblance of comfort quickly disappeared. “It was the closest I’ve ever seen Caroline to breaking down,” remembers her husband. “She just turned to me with a grin and said ‘this is maybe a little too much in the moment’. Then we just laughed and kept riding.” This epitomized Caroline’s light-hearted, easy-going approach to life. People often talk about living in the moment, but Caroline was one of the rare people who was truly able to do it.
Once back home, the couple went on to build a life together that revolved around playing in the mountains with friends, whether it was on a backcountry ski trip to the B.C. Interior or a climbing trip to Mexico. In recent years, much of their energy had been poured into renovating an old home on Vancouver’s east side. It was here, perhaps more than in the mountains, that Caroline’s ability to enjoy all sides of life truly shone. Not many people can endure living for seven months with no kitchen, using the bathtub as a kitchen sink, let alone enjoying it. Life, Caroline always knew, is something to be experienced, no matter how interesting.

Caroline passed away in a fatal climbing accident on June 30, 2007 at the Skaha Bluffs in Penticton, B.C. Caroline’s beautiful smile, enthusiasm, and pleasant nature will be dearly missed by her friends and family. –Kevin Arnold

return to top