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Archive of Articles by Gripped


Chilly in Chile: new ice routes in South America

Anna Torretta and Cecilia Buil spent South America’s winter finding new ice routes around the Cerro El Marmolejo glacier in Chile. They made the first ascent of La Gioconda WI6 160 m in the valley of Cajon del Maipo.
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Urs Kallen wins Summit of Excellence 2014

Calgary’s Urs Kallen has been awarded the prestigious Summit of Excellence Award for his lifetime of achievements, contributions and mentorship in the world of climbing. Urs Kallen was born in Switzerland in 1943, and was an accomplished mountaineer by the time he arrived
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New Bugaboos Route by Olson and McAllister

Jen Olson and Tim McAllister have established a new route on the South Howser Tower. The great weather has led to excellent autumn conditions in the alpine. Olson and McAllister climbed Ethereal D+ 320 m M6 WI4R on Oct. 10, 2014. The new route climbs a nearly direct line up the
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Adam Ondra: Rock and Plastic

Adam Ondra is having a great year. In addition to onsighting 5.14d, twice in 2014, he’s redpointed Realization 5.15a and won both the bouldering and lead climbing World Championships. Never before has anyone won championships in both disciplines in the same year, and no one
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Sean McColl Onsights 5.14a

Sean McColl is hot off an impressive year of winning competitions left, right and centre. He is now settled into France and has been climbing at Col du Marocaz. On Oct. 2, McColl onsighted Putain Strates Offerts, his first 5.14 onsight. The following day, he made a one-day ascent
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Sasha DiGiulian is first female to climb this 300-metre 5.14

Sasha DiGiulian teamed up with Edu Marin to become the first woman to climb Viaje de los Locos 5.14a in Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia, Italy. The seven-pitch sport route was first climbed by Dani Andrada and Daniel Du Lac and means The Madman’s Journey. Full report from Red
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I Heart Estes: a different sort of film

Bouldering at Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park. Climbs are Gobot, Lost in Space, Top Notch, and Freshly Squeezed. The climbers are Colin Barnes, Sam Davis and Andrew Rothner. I Heart Estes from scientia on Vimeo.
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Hard New Mixed Routes in Utah and Colorado

Unseasonably cool temperatures in Utah and Colorado has keen winter climbers lacing up their mixed boots. On Oct. 3, Will Mayo and Ben Collett made the first ascent of a mixed route on Colorado’s Mount Evan’s Black Wall. The new Shooting Star is a two-pitch M9 WI7
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Siegrist at Lion’s Head

Jonathan Siegrist spent some time this summer climbing at Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Gripped will have a full report and interview with him in the December/January issue. There is a very strong group of climbers who call Lion’s Head home, including Mark Smith, Greg
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Vid: Ode to Arapiles

Ontario’s sandstone crag of Pass Lake near The Sleeping Giant Provincial Park has nearly 100 routes up to 5.12. During the 1980s, climbers either top-roped the easy routes or took to climbing the obvious cracks with protection. In the late 90s, a few bolts were added to a
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