Gripped Magazine

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Archive of Articles by Gripped


Adam Ondra: Rock and Plastic

Adam Ondra is having a great year. In addition to onsighting 5.14d, twice in 2014, he’s redpointed Realization 5.15a and won both the bouldering and lead climbing World Championships. Never before has anyone won championships in both disciplines in the same year, and no one
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Sean McColl Onsights 5.14a

Sean McColl is hot off an impressive year of winning competitions left, right and centre. He is now settled into France and has been climbing at Col du Marocaz. On Oct. 2, McColl onsighted Putain Strates Offerts, his first 5.14 onsight. The following day, he made a one-day ascent
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Sasha DiGiulian is first female to climb this 300-metre 5.14

Sasha DiGiulian teamed up with Edu Marin to become the first woman to climb Viaje de los Locos 5.14a in Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia, Italy. The seven-pitch sport route was first climbed by Dani Andrada and Daniel Du Lac and means The Madman’s Journey. Full report from Red
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I Heart Estes: a different sort of film

Bouldering at Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park. Climbs are Gobot, Lost in Space, Top Notch, and Freshly Squeezed. The climbers are Colin Barnes, Sam Davis and Andrew Rothner. I Heart Estes from scientia on Vimeo.
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Hard New Mixed Routes in Utah and Colorado

Unseasonably cool temperatures in Utah and Colorado has keen winter climbers lacing up their mixed boots. On Oct. 3, Will Mayo and Ben Collett made the first ascent of a mixed route on Colorado’s Mount Evan’s Black Wall. The new Shooting Star is a two-pitch M9 WI7
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Siegrist at Lion’s Head

Jonathan Siegrist spent some time this summer climbing at Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Gripped will have a full report and interview with him in the December/January issue. There is a very strong group of climbers who call Lion’s Head home, including Mark Smith, Greg
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Vid: Ode to Arapiles

Ontario’s sandstone crag of Pass Lake near The Sleeping Giant Provincial Park has nearly 100 routes up to 5.12. During the 1980s, climbers either top-roped the easy routes or took to climbing the obvious cracks with protection. In the late 90s, a few bolts were added to a
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Angy Eiter and her Austrian Hercules

Angela Eiter is not only Austria’s strongest female climber, she is the best female lead competition climber in history. The 28-year-old, who was born in Arzl im Pitztal, Austria has been making headlines since she was a teenager. With four lead world champion titles to her
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Alex Honnold solos Yosemite’s Heaven

Alex Honnold solos Yosemite’s Heaven 5.12d. The route was first climbed by Ron Kauk in the 90s and soloed in 2005 by Dean Potter. The climb starts 800 metres above the valley floor. Honnold first soloed it in 2011 on a day when he linked Heaven with Cosmic Debris. Alex
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New California V13

California’s Mark Heal made the first ascent of Holy Rails sit V13 in Tuolumne. The stand start was climbed by Max Zolotukhin in 2013 at V11. With good conditions this fall, Heal finally sent the sit start.  
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