Gripped Magazine

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Archive of Articles by Gripped


New 10-pitch route near Golden B.C.

New route in B.C. will certainly draw climbers east of the divide and from near-by Golden. Andrea Eitle and Cody Lank have completed a new 10-pitch 5.11 called Gorman Gold. The crux is 5.11b and takes a direct line up an aesthetic tower and links into an upper corner system
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George Mallory’s ice axe sold, but was it really his?

George Mallory’s ice axe sold for $240,000 CAD at an auction in April. Questions have been raised about whether the axe belonged to Mallory or not. On Apil 10, a Chrisite’s auction item listed as “Lot 216 – an ice axe” sold for a staggering $240,000
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Tour de Frank: New Alberta bouldering festival

On Sept. 20, the inaugural Southern Alberta Tour de Frank bouldering festival took place in the Frank Slide. By Jonas Gagnon Greeted by clear, blue skies over a field of grey limestone blocks, climbers dispersed into Frank Slide for the inaugural Tour de Frank outdoor climbing
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Statement of Youth

In 1984, U.K.’s 18-year-old Ben Moon climbed Statement of Youth 5.13b. The route was an inspiration to many young climbers of the day.
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Gasherbrum V: climbed at last

The remote Gasherbrum range peak was one of the last unclimbed challenges in the region. On July 25, two Korean climbers stood on top of the 7,147-metre peak. Nak-jong Seong and Chi-young Ahn arrived at basecamp in early summer. After attempting the north face they changed plans
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Proposed Route on Oregon Bridge

The city of Redmond in Oregon might allow climbers to turn a decommissioned bridge into a climbing wall. The Maple Avenue Bridge spans over the Dry Canyon recreational area. There are bridge over rivers and urban overpasses, but climbing over a city park might be a new concept.
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Speed Record on The Naked Edge

On September 24th, Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright retook their speed record on The Naked Edge 5.11 in Eldorado Canyon, CO. The team shaved 15 seconds off of the previous record set by Jason Wells and Stefan Griebel in August 2014. Griebel was there to cheer on his
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Vid: Chris Sharma takes a whipper

Chris Sharma is known for his big sends, but he is also known for his huge whippers. Check out this clip of him sending Dreamcatcher 5.14d and then whipping off Groove Train, a run-out 5.14c.
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Don Whillan’s Last Climb, the Film

Don Whillan’s Last Climb was produced in 1984. Watch as he climbs with Joe Brown up a route they made the first ascent of 32 years before filming. Don Whillans, was a leading climber of his generation. He met Joe Brown in 1951 and they became good friends. Whillans climbed
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Another new 5.13 at Lion’s Head

Last week we reported about a number of new 5.13s at Lion’s Head. This week, Mark Smith has added another. Mark Smith sent an 40-metre project which is the direct finish to his recent new route 30 Years in the Making 5.13c. Smith is calling his new route Reach for the Sky
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