Gripped Magazine

Articles

Antarctica’s Great Climb

After an arduous time moving loads across 5 km of the white desert from base camp to advanced base camp we were poised to attempt the ridge. Leo had spent the morning with the enormous amount of climbing gear, getting his rack together, then, like an overburdened iron monger he
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The Asgard Epic

In Norse mythology, Asgard was the Realm of the Gods. I had feasted on the divine stone of both of its south and east sides, with Chris Brazeau in 2009, yet I was hungry for more, as I considered what we'd climbed to be some of the finest alpine rock I'd ever experienced.
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Reducing the Risk on Rockies Limestone

When it comes to surviving and thriving in the battle with gravity, being a good climber is only part of the equation. I've been very fortunate to have climbed a very long time. Using my experiences over the years, I hope to offer some tips to reduce risk, preventable heartache
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The Prophet

When I sat down to write this story it was just supposed to be about this route in Yosemite called The Prophet which I completed this fall. As I started typing I realized that it was much more than just a route for me, and this made the writing process more difficult than just
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Big Trad – The Rockies Modern Game

What exactly is the traditional game today depends on who you talk to. Some old-school traditionalists who say the modern game has ruined climbing. The younger generation rush to embrace modern tactics and ethics in search of ever steeper ground and harder grades.
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A Bouldering Affair – Still in Love After All These Years

Against all the odds, as well as my cheating climbing heart and the endless mountain passes separating us, I'm still head-over-heels for the bouldering in Bishop, California.
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Climbing in the Land of Legends

Mount Yamnuska over the years has remained the heartbeat of the rockies trad scene. This summer marked the 60th year for technical rock climbing in the Rockies and it all got started on this great cliff. The mountain has stood witness to four generations of climbers. Many firsts
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Out of Nowhere – Nathan Kutcher

If you looked at the roster for the men's competition this past January, you probably wouldn't have picked first-time competitor Nathan Kutcher of St. Catharines to win top honors. "Nobody in the competition had ever even heard of this guy," competition director and Ouray Ice
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The Okanagan’s Bouldering Boom

Currently, the Okanagan boasts at least 10 bouldering areas with over 1000 established problems. The rock varies from Tuolumne-style, knobby granite to RMNP-esque boulder fields filled with ridiculously featured Monashee gneiss. Settings range from lakeside escapes to higher
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