I had busted my chops all year, training, climbing, dieting and strategizing, and I was running out of time to hit my goal of red-pointing 5.13a. The season started off strong with some 12+ sends including a 13a the year before, but I needed consistency.
How does one decide on the top 10 fat ice moderates in the Rockies? For me, moderate is WI 4 + at the most. Next, I wanted to get some geographic representation from where I’ve climbed and lastly I wanted the climbs with the best stories. Here we go.
In 1975 the best rock climbers in North America were just starting to break into the 5.12 grade. That level of difficulty may not seem like a big deal today, especially at sport crags, but when you strip out the astonishing material and innovative changes to climbing gear, shoes, and training since then, 5.12 had sharper teeth than it may seem.
You never know where a road trip may lead you. One day you could be sucking back ice-cold Ale-8’s in the Red River Gorge, and the next day find yourself westward-bound on I-40.
Balancing life with either a kid or a non-climbing partner and climbing can be a never-ending conflict. Be it trying to hang on to a relationship on the brink because of one’s never ending affair with the rock or finding a balance between parenting and climbing. The majority of people have an issue with it, saying, come on now- is climbing really that important?
There are many climbers who have retained their motivation regardless of their age, and continue to push difficulty standards throughout the world.