Part of a new generation of bold Canadian climbers, Will Stanhope and Andrew Boyd risk it all and bag a free ascent on the South Face of the Turret in the Adamants.
Mount Yamnuska over the years has remained the heartbeat of the rockies trad scene. This summer marked the 60th year for technical rock climbing in the Rockies and it all got started on this great cliff. The mountain has stood witness to four generations of climbers. Many firsts have kept the mountain at the leading edge in terms of grades and ethical standards.
For forty years, the Rockies have been a world-class ice climbing destination and in the words of Bugs Mckeith,”(In the ) winter of 72-73 the seeds were planted of what was to blossom into one of the most exciting things that has happened in the Rockies since the big peadks were first climbed.
The excellent rock at Squamish attracts climbers from all over the world. An influx of visitors during the peak season, often results in crowded routes. You still can find many uncrowded and lightly travelled classic routes. This is my top ten of Squamish’s hidden but classic lines…
Many climbers believe that deep water soloing(DWS) is the latest trend, but climbing above water existed long before climbers knew what ot call it. Its purest form happens every time kids go swimming, scramble up rocks and jump back into water. The most recent version encourages difficult climbing and the competitiveness found in conventional roped ascents.
While hiking down that evening, I swore I’d go back to finish cleaning the route. The climbing was so much fun that I wanted to share it. Knowing that there was a 5.9 solution to the summit of the Cheif was too difficult for me to ignore…I wouldn’t let this line go until it was done.