I had broken the First Rule of Dig Club. The First Rule of Dig Club is: you do not talk about Dig Club. The First Rule prevents the public from seeing and reacting to the removal of vegetation and therefore maintains their naïve ideas about the origin of rock climbs. It also keeps Diggers in the closet, equally naïve about how to develop a route of quality.
In the Belle Province, almost everyone who climbs knows Jean-Pierre ‘Peewee’ Ouellet. The crack phenom has been on the forefront of hard trad climbing for years, not only at home, but in the States as well. But his tick list goes beyond simply doing hard 5.13 cracks. He also climbs up to 5.14 in sport, boulders double-digits and climbs difficult ice and mixed routes.
Above the Great Wall we encountered a pitch called The Black Cleft. Neither of us in our combined months of climbing experience had ever climbed something so brutish, dank and unprotected And more past that, until dusk found us on a small ledge with just enough wet moss to suck some water out to quell our thirsts.
Climbers preparing for a summer road trip, or a trip to the local crag, should check out some of this season’s newest gear that will make living on the road a bit more comfortable.