Gripped Magazine

Ice

Nanga Parbat: video of Moro’s and Gottler’s attempt

Simone Moro and David Göttler attempted to climb Nanga Parbat 8,125 m in the winter of 2014. The climbers left in December 2013 for one of the toughest expeditions on earth, during the coldest and most demanding season: the Nanga Parbat ascent. The ninth tallest mountain in the
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Shoulder Season: Rockies ice is forming

The Canadian Rockies are home to some of the world’s most famous ice routes. A warm fall has postponed many of the early routes from forming on schedule. Many climbers have headed south for the fall shoulder season, in search of warmer temps. There are always a dedicated
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New route in Central Garhwal by Jim Elzinga and Steve House

The Alpine Mentors have been in India’s Central Garhwal for nearly a month. Despite some bad weather, they have climbed a new route. Jim Elzinga and Steve House have climbed the previously unclimbed southwest face of Brahamasar II, 1,000 metres. A message came from
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Nepal Avalanche: 28 dead and search continues

The recent avalanche in Nepal has killed at least 28 people, including four Canadians. The search continues and Canadians anxiously await messages from loved ones. There are a number of people still missing. They are from Vancouver, Calgary, Montreal, Toronto and a number of
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Urs Kallen wins Summit of Excellence 2014

Calgary’s Urs Kallen has been awarded the prestigious Summit of Excellence Award for his lifetime of achievements, contributions and mentorship in the world of climbing. Urs Kallen was born in Switzerland in 1943, and was an accomplished mountaineer by the time he arrived
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New Bugaboos Route by Olson and McAllister

Jen Olson and Tim McAllister have established a new route on the South Howser Tower. The great weather has led to excellent autumn conditions in the alpine. Olson and McAllister climbed Ethereal D+ 320 m M6 WI4R on Oct. 10, 2014. The new route climbs a nearly direct line up the
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Korra Pesce sessions the Grande Jorasses

Chamonix-based Korra Pesce has been at the cutting edge of alpine climbing in the Alps for years. This fall, he has focused on the Grande Jorasses and the great alpine conditions. Pesce started his season on the Grande with a solo of the 800-metre Polish Route M6 in just over two
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Brits climb Mount Alberta’s North Face

Visiting U.K. climbers make third ascent of route on Mount Alberta’s North Face. Nick Bullock and Will Sim have made a rare ascent of the north face of the 3,619-metre Mount Alberta via the 2008 route climbed by Steve House and Vince Anderson. Nick Bullock’s blog Will
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George Mallory’s ice axe sold, but was it really his?

George Mallory’s ice axe sold for $240,000 CAD at an auction in April. Questions have been raised about whether the axe belonged to Mallory or not. On Apil 10, a Chrisite’s auction item listed as “Lot 216 – an ice axe” sold for a staggering $240,000
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Mayo Sends Summer Dry-Tool Line

Will Mayo has pieced together the long reaches of this new dry-tool problem in the Ghetto via headlamp. The Existensionalist looks like a like a great way to train for the upcoming mixed/ice season. The route climbs 30 metres along a roof in an abandoned mine near Colorado
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