Gripped Magazine

Ice

Canada Strong At Inaugural World Cup

The first UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour to take place in North America was one to remember. On Dec. 13, two Canadians won the North American Championships and placed high in the international ranks. There is no doubt that Bozeman is a prime destination for ice climbers. Nearly
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Ice Climbing World Cup Speed Results and History is Made

The UIAA’s first ever World Cup in North America started with the speed climbing competition on Fri. Dec. 12. The warm weather led to a no-ice speed climbing wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana. Large crowds gathered in Bozeman to watch the event take place. In the end,
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New Moderate Mixed Route in Rockies: Soft Coire

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies’ leading guides and new routers. He has now climbed a number of new routes in the Coire Dubh area on Lodder Peak. After the December cold snap, Mill and his partner Julian headed up the ice pitches on Coire Dubh and climbed the standard M5
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Shivling: the Perfect Attempt

In September 2014, Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Rox made an attempt on Shivling in the Indian Himalayas. Their decision to bail was timely, as the following day a storm came that killed 40 people in Nepal. Teixeira and Rox’s initial plan was to attempt the unclimbed east spur
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Hardest Mixed Pitch in North America: Sent!

Will Mayo and Ryan Vachon worked the moves to a variation to The Mustang M14- in East Vail, Colorado and Mayo took it to the top. Mayo wrote on his Facebook, “Ryan sent the rig all the way to the last bolt below the thin ice finish, took, lowered off, and said, ‘I
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Books for climbers; top winter reads

Cold days and short daytime hours offer prime reading conditions. Here are the top climbing-related reads for winter 2014. Scroll to the bottom for cover shots. The Calling by Barry Blanchard Blanchard’s much-awaited memoirs. A portrait of the power of mountains to lift us
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Nathan Kutcher Climbs Hard New Quebec Route

Nathan Kutcher is no stranger to headlines. He has established a number of hard ice, mixed and drytooling routes. He competes on the world stage at the UIAA ice climbing world cup. Last year, Kutcher spent three days in St. Alban and onsighted three M10s. St. Alban is an all
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Watch Angy Rainer Climb Italy’s Hardest Dry Tool Route

Kamasutra D13+ is the hardest dry tooling route in Italy, bolted by Matteo Rivadossi. Located at Iseo this route was climbed for the first time in January 2014, by Angelika Rainer the three times ice climbing World Champion. This is the video of her ascent, let the new winter
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Winter Climbing Tips

Winter is here, in some parts of North America more than others. If you’re planning on heading out for a cold adventure then be prepared. 1. The Weather: All of Canada’s provinces experience different weather patterns. In the east, damp, bone-chilling conditions
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New Hard Rockies Mixed Route

In the early 1980s, Jim Elzinga and party climbed a new route up the northeast face of Cirrus Mountain. Cirrus is famous for its west facing Polar Circus and Weeping Wall. In 2011, Elzinga and Gripped editor Brandon Pullan climbed a new route in the valley below the northeast
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