Gripped Magazine

Ice

Mount Logan Success, Storms and Helicopters

In May and June, three highly experienced climbers were attempting to traverse Mount Logan. After reaching the summit they were forced to spend a week above 5,000 metres in snow caves until a helicopter picked them up. Bryce Brown and his two partners flew on May 16 from the
Read More

Watch the First Ascent of Alaska’s Bad to the Bone

Will Sim and Jon Griffith recently made the first ascent of Mount Deborah’s northwest face and called their difficult alpine climb, Bad to the Bone. Griffith has produced this film about their climb, read the full story here. Bad to the Bone – North West face Mt
Read More

Deconstructing Jenga: Hard New Route on Baffin’s Great Cross Pillar

Americans, David Allfrey and Cheyne Lempe, have climbed a new route on Baffin Island at the start of what promises to be a busy summer on Baffin Island. Allfrey and Lempe are two of America’s strongest big wall climbers. During May, the pair climbed a new route on Great
Read More

Europeans Make First Ascent of Alaska’s Mount Reaper

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the unclimbed Mount Reaper in Alaska by their Sugar Man M7 A1 750 metres route up the north face. Mount Reaper was not only unclimbed, but reportedly unnamed and is on the Pitchfork Glacier near Mount Citadel and Berserker. The
Read More

Alpinist Markus Pucher Solos New Patagonian Line

In April, the strong Austrian climber, Markus Pucher, soloed a new route on a rarely attempted peak near El Chalten. On his Facebook page, Pucher wrote, “New route on West Face of Marconi Sur. Into the Wild 800-metre M5.” The Marconi range were named for Guglielmo
Read More

Quebec’s Difficult New Spring Mixed Route: The Last Ronin

Quebec climbers climb a new route in memory of their friend and accomplished climber, Yannick Girard. By Louis Rousseau The day was perfect, except for the March date: Friday the 13th. We stopped for coffee and cakes in Baie, St. Paul at the bakery. We decided to finish our
Read More

John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
Read More

Epic Climber Series: Watch Tommy Caldwell Climb an Ice-Covered Crack

EpicTV’s Epic Climber series is about to wrap up and for the final climb, they push some of our favourite climbing stars to the limit. The conditions might have seemed perfect as the four climbers arrive at the summit of Chamonix’s Aiguille du Midi, but on the rock,
Read More

New Route on Alaska’s Mount Lucifer

John Frieh has made a number of trips to Alaska’s Stikine Ice Cap and on almost every trip climbs a new route. In May 2015, Frieh was joined by Doug Shepherd for the first ascent of the north face of Mount Lucifer 2,300 metres. Frieh’s first trip to the Stikine was in
Read More

Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
Read More

Gripped Subscription