Gripped Magazine

Ice

Mayo Sends Summer Dry-Tool Line

Will Mayo has pieced together the long reaches of this new dry-tool problem in the Ghetto via headlamp. The Existensionalist looks like a like a great way to train for the upcoming mixed/ice season. The route climbs 30 metres along a roof in an abandoned mine near Colorado
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Baffin Island: Canadians climb new routes on big granite!

Four Canadians have returned from a month-long expedition into the heart of the Sam Ford Fjord. Crosby Johnston, Joshua Lavigne, Paul McSorley and Tony Richardson spent the better part of July and August in the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fiord on Baffin Island in Nunavut. By Paul
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New Greenland Route: The Great Shark Hunt

Three climbers have climbed a new route on Greenland’s Shark’s Tooth: The Great Shark Hunt. Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber climbed The Great Shark Hunt on Aug. 18, a 900-metre wall of granite. In 2011, a Russian team made the first
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Wide Awake in the Bugs: stellar-looking new route

Jon Walsh is one of Canada’s leading alpine climbers. In our current issue (Aug/Sept,) he features the Bugaboos in a a photo essay. This summer he headed to the seldom-visited Pigeon Feathers and found a choice route on Wide Awake Tower. Walsh and Michelle Katadtz added
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Climbers die on Mont Blanc during tragic year

Six people went missing on the Mont Blanc massif and were discovered the following day, the group included one mountain guide. Death on Mont Blanc is unfortunatley an all-to-common occurrence. With over-eager guides and casual climbers crowding its slopes, the mountain is one of
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From Around the World: new routes and wild K2 stats!

Here is an update on what has been going on outside of Canada this summer. On May 29 and 30, American climbers John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked IV+ AI6 M7, a hard new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. For the full report
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The Apocalyptic Wall: Climbed!

Jonny Simms and Chris Brazeau, both from Golden, B.C., have made the first ascent of an often-talked-about big wall on Mount Stephen in the Canadian Rockies. The Rockies have many unclimbed big walls, but few so close to the road. People have been talking about the large,
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Leclerc and Crew Rock the Waddington

Marc-Andre Leclerc has returned from a successful trip to the Waddington Range. Leclerc was in B.C.’s remote range for two weekes. He made solo link-up of Serra 5 and Asperity Mountain in an 18-hour return push from base camp, “So psyched to have completed the first
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Barry Blanchard’s The Calling is now available!

One of the most anticipated books of 2014, Barry Blanchard’s new book The Calling, is now available. Blanchard is not only one of Canada’s most accomplished climbers, he is also one of the most colourfull characters in the sport. In Canada, his first ascents include
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K2: teams combine efforts for summit push 60 years after first ascent

A number of climbing parties on the Abruzzi Spur have teamed up and are making a collective effort for a summit push on July 26. K2 is located on the border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of
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