Gripped Magazine

Ice

Okanagan’s Mythologic

The team of Lyle Knight and Marc Piche bagged the first ascent of Mythologic, a long difficult ice route on the Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan, in 2011. Knight described Mythologic WI6, 140 m as “a skinny version of Nemesis in the Rockies” with “consistently hard” climbing
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Crazy! Ice Climber Rides Falling Pillar, Walks Away Unharmed

Sub-Zero explores the souls of four top Canadian ice climbers and this time we meet John Freeman, a mountain guide and rope access supervisor living in Canmore, Alberta, Canada who was recently in the climbing news for establishing a new route at Helmcken Falls with Will Gadd
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Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski have been nominated for their ascent of K6 West. The jury of the 22nd Piolets d’Or selected the following five ascents from a list of 76, no easy task. The president, George Lowe, together with Catherine Destivelle, Erri de Luca,
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. The Tepui  Rolando Larcer, Maurizo Ovigliz and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuelza, Escalador
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Charlie Porter Dies, 1951-2014

Charlie Porter was an American rock climber, big-wall pioneer and mountaineer. Known for his first ascents in Yosemite, Canada and Alaska, and for his influence on the climbing community with his creation and development of original equipment. He was one of the first people to
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Repeated! Overhead Hazard for Emmett and Premrl

Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have repeated Overhead Hazard, M13, 200 m, at Helmcken Falls, B.C. From January 28 to February 13, Will Gadd, John Freeman, Sarah Hueniken and Katie Bono spent countless hours establishing Canada’s biggest, wildest mixed climb, see here for more
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Northern Quebec’s Far-Off, Monster Ice

Canada is an ice climbers playground. People often think of the Canadian Rockies when picturing 250-metre, WI6 routes, but as Jasmin Fauteux discovered years ago, northern Quebec has some of the biggest, wildest ice in Canada. Quebec Gold  Story and Photos by Jasmin Fauteux
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Canada’s New “Big-Wall” Mixed Route at Helmcken

Will Gadd, Sarah Hueniken, John Freeman and Katie Bono have finished their mega-project at Helmcken Falls, B.C. The climbers spent two weeks in early 2014 establishing Overhead Hazard, Mhard, 200 metres, at the now-popular spray-ice climbing destination. “I first saw this
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Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia

American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall while descending Fitz Roy. Kellogg was killed form a rock that was dislodged by a rope. Patagonian climber Rolando Garibotti wrote on Super Topo, “Over two days Chad Kellogg and Jens Holsten climbed the Afanassieff Route on the NW
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Lucie Hrozova sends Baphomet, Hardest Mixed Route in Poland

Have you heard of Czech climber Lucie Hrozova? The 26-year-old is the strongest female mixed climber, anywhere. In 2013, Hrozova became the first women to climb M14 when she sent Robert Jasper’s Ironman at Eptingen, Switzerland. On Feb. 8, 2014 she sent her secon
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