Gripped Magazine

Ice

Quebec’s Difficult New Spring Mixed Route: The Last Ronin

Quebec climbers climb a new route in memory of their friend and accomplished climber, Yannick Girard. By Louis Rousseau The day was perfect, except for the March date: Friday the 13th. We stopped for coffee and cakes in Baie, St. Paul at the bakery. We decided to finish our
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John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
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Epic Climber Series: Watch Tommy Caldwell Climb an Ice-Covered Crack

EpicTV’s Epic Climber series is about to wrap up and for the final climb, they push some of our favourite climbing stars to the limit. The conditions might have seemed perfect as the four climbers arrive at the summit of Chamonix’s Aiguille du Midi, but on the rock,
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New Route on Alaska’s Mount Lucifer

John Frieh has made a number of trips to Alaska’s Stikine Ice Cap and on almost every trip climbs a new route. In May 2015, Frieh was joined by Doug Shepherd for the first ascent of the north face of Mount Lucifer 2,300 metres. Frieh’s first trip to the Stikine was in
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Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
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Dani Arnold’s New Matterhorn Speed Record

Dani Arnold sets a new speed record at the north face of the Matterhorn by climbing the North Face in one-hour and 46 minutes.  Arnold, the exceptional 30-year-old climber from Switzerland, has made a name for himself all over the world for his extraordinary achievements in mixed
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New Alaska Route: Mount Deborah is Bad to the Bone

Mount Deborah is a 3,761-metre peak in Alaska that has attracted climbers to its icy walls for decades. The first ascent was up the South Ridge in 1954 by Fred Beckey, Henry Meybohm, Heinrich Harrer. The most recent new route was climbed by Will Sim and Jon Griffith up the
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Everest Earthquake: Canadians Safe After Tragedy

The magnitude 7.8 earthquake in Nepal triggered an avalanche that killed 17 people. A number of Canadian are in the Everest area and all are reported to be safe. It’s the deadliest disaster in the history of climbing on the world’s highest peak. There were over 60
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First Japanese Ascent of The Wild Thing

The Wild Thing is one of the Rockies’ most classic alpine routes. First climbed in 1987, the most recent and first Japanese ascent was by Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani.   During the third week of Apil, Toshiyuki and Tani made what was likely the 12th ascent of the
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Canadian Max Fisher Sends In Chamonix

Max Fisher is a Canadian east-coaster with a sweet tooth for the alpine. He’s currently sessioning the spring rock and alpine climbing in Chamonix. By Max Fisher Last June, when close friend and climbing partner Cory Hall passed away climbing in Peru, James Monypenny
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