Gripped Magazine

Ice

New Mixed Route in Quebec

Matt Maddaloni climbed a new mixed route in Quebec at the start of 2016. The esthetic route is at the not-so-popular Sainte Adele and is called Jessica 4 Ever M8.
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Will Mayo’s New Warhawk is M14

Watch Will Mayo send his new link-up in East Vail, it climbs the first 25 meters of The Mustang M14- roof into Red Beard M12 to a crux finish on one-arm lock-offs on thin ice. “This is the most challenging and the most exciting sport mixed climb I have ever done.”
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New Thin Ice Routes in Northern Ontario

It was a slow start to the ice climbing season in most of Canada, but with the recent cooling it seems new routes are forming. At the popular Orient Bay north of Nipigon, Bryce Brown and Nick Buda, who have climbed numerous new routes together, climbed three likely-new routes.
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Young-Hye Kwon Sends Difficult Sport Routes in China

Young-Hye Kwon has climbed a number of difficult 5.14s in the The White Mountains of Yangshuo, China. Last winter, Korean climber Young-Hye climbed the hardest mixed routes in the world at the time with sends of Kamasutra D13+ in Italy, Dechette D14 in France, Steel Koan M13+ in
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More Top Canadian Sends of 2015

Here is a short list of some of the big sends that made headlines in 2015. In 2015, a number of firsts went down for Canadian climbers. From first ascents to grade breakthroughs, climbers across Canada climbed hard to accomplish their goals. Here are five Canadian firsts and five
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Big New Ice Climbs in British Columbia

Two big new ice climbs in the B.C. Peace Region west of Jasper. Tumbler Ridge is on the western edge of the Canadian Rockies and is known for its backcountry skiing and ice climbing. Craig Waters reported on the B.C. Peace Region Climbers page that he and Jesse Coonce made the
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Top Canadian Sends of 2015

Here is a short list of some of the big sends that made headlines in 2015. Canadians crushed in 2015, from alpine and big-wall climbing to cragging and bouldering they aimed high, and more than once made international headlines for sends in Canada and abroad. We are lucky that
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Watch Josh Wharton’s First Ascent of Hard Winter Route

Josh Wharton is based in Estes Park, a small Colorado town near Rocky Mountain National Park. Watch this video by John Dickey of Wharton climbing a new mixed route up on Dragon’s Tail Spire that Wharton called Twin Dragons M7. BD athlete Josh Wharton making the first ascent
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New Steep Mixed Pitch in the Ghost

The Ghost is one of Canada’s most popular winter climbing locations and is located near Calgary. Reuben Marsden and Ross Suchy added a new pitch to Candle Stick Maker, which is found at Orient Point. Candle Stick Maker is a 150-metre WI5, which rarely forms as a complete
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Watch Some Steep Rockies Ice and Mixed Climbing

Watch Guido Unterwurzacher and his team climb steep routes in the Rockies. “Being an absolute all-rounder, Guido also knows what the breakfast of champions should look like.”
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