Gripped Magazine

Ice

Perfect Conditions on Foster’s Direttissima

Mount Colonel Foster is on Vancouver Island, B.C., At 2,135 metres it is the fourth highest peak on the island.  In Jan. 1978, Joe Bajan and Ross Nichol made the first winter ascent of Foster’s 1,000-metre east face while making the first ascent of Direttissima, V, AI5.
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Difficile Monster, a Storm Creek Consolation

Storm Creek Headwall parallels the famous Stanley Headwall, one valley south, in B.C. The Storm Creek Headwall has a number of classic ice and mixed climbs. Climbers have added a number of moderate to hard lines over the years. In 2004, the routes Xena M5, 100 m, Cosban M5, 100
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Scotland, the “Core”

The land where no local or visiting climber will budge on bolts, the hardware-free walls offer hair raising belays, pounding spin-drift and edge-of-your-seat run outs. Scotland is the land of the hardcore climber.  “It’s not at all about gymnastic grades, or safety,
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. Somewhere Over the Rainbow Rock and Ice reported on a new five-pitch M11 in Ouray, Colorado. Jason Nelson and Beth Goralski climbed Somewhere Over the
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Copp-Dash Award Winners

The Copp-Dash Inspire Award, sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia (and with in-kind support from Adventure Film Festival, the American Alpine Club, Jonny Copp Foundation and Sender Films), announced the 2014 winners of the climbing
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Sochi Olympics and Ice Climbing

The opening ceremonies are today, Feb. 7, in Sochi, Russia. Competitive ice climbers on the UIAA World Cup tour have gathered in Sochi to take part in the event. Ice climbing is being showcased at the Olympic Park. Ice climbing is not a competitive sport at the Olympics, no
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Canadians Push Through Poor Patagonia Weather

Jonny Simms and Tony Richardson have made a 32-hour return-trip from Chalten and freed an old aid route in bad weather. Simms and Richardson are two of Canada’s most experienced alpine climbers. For the past few weeks they have been hunkered down in El Chalten, Patagonia.
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Canucks Pioneer Icy Patagonian Chimneys

February 2014, Jonny Simms and Tony Richardson are on a roll in Patagonia, they have climbed another new route. The pair climbed El Busca Jesus in late January. Jonny Simms and Tony Richardson climbed a variation  to the 1968 route Guillot-Conqueugniot, 250 m, 70 degrees
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Canadians Mixing It Up in Scotland

Last week was the British Mountain Club (BMC) winter international meet, 44 climbers from 26 countries gathered in Scotland. Ten new routes and a number of impressive ascents were climbed during a week of perfect Scottish mixed climbing conditions. “Scotland is just as rad
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. Daniel Woods According to 8a.nu, Daniel Woods has been on a sending-spree for the past couple of months. In January he spent time climbing in Penoles,
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