Gripped Magazine

Ice

Charlie Porter Dies, 1951-2014

Charlie Porter was an American rock climber, big-wall pioneer and mountaineer. Known for his first ascents in Yosemite, Canada and Alaska, and for his influence on the climbing community with his creation and development of original equipment. He was one of the first people to
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Repeated! Overhead Hazard for Emmett and Premrl

Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have repeated Overhead Hazard, M13, 200 m, at Helmcken Falls, B.C. From January 28 to February 13, Will Gadd, John Freeman, Sarah Hueniken and Katie Bono spent countless hours establishing Canada’s biggest, wildest mixed climb, see here for more
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Northern Quebec’s Far-Off, Monster Ice

Canada is an ice climbers playground. People often think of the Canadian Rockies when picturing 250-metre, WI6 routes, but as Jasmin Fauteux discovered years ago, northern Quebec has some of the biggest, wildest ice in Canada. Quebec Gold  Story and Photos by Jasmin Fauteux
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Canada’s New “Big-Wall” Mixed Route at Helmcken

Will Gadd, Sarah Hueniken, John Freeman and Katie Bono have finished their mega-project at Helmcken Falls, B.C. The climbers spent two weeks in early 2014 establishing Overhead Hazard, Mhard, 200 metres, at the now-popular spray-ice climbing destination. “I first saw this
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Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia

American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall while descending Fitz Roy. Kellogg was killed form a rock that was dislodged by a rope. Patagonian climber Rolando Garibotti wrote on Super Topo, “Over two days Chad Kellogg and Jens Holsten climbed the Afanassieff Route on the NW
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Lucie Hrozova sends Baphomet, Hardest Mixed Route in Poland

Have you heard of Czech climber Lucie Hrozova? The 26-year-old is the strongest female mixed climber, anywhere. In 2013, Hrozova became the first women to climb M14 when she sent Robert Jasper’s Ironman at Eptingen, Switzerland. On Feb. 8, 2014 she sent her secon
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Perfect Conditions on Foster’s Direttissima

Mount Colonel Foster is on Vancouver Island, B.C., At 2,135 metres it is the fourth highest peak on the island.  In Jan. 1978, Joe Bajan and Ross Nichol made the first winter ascent of Foster’s 1,000-metre east face while making the first ascent of Direttissima, V, AI5.
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Difficile Monster, a Storm Creek Consolation

Storm Creek Headwall parallels the famous Stanley Headwall, one valley south, in B.C. The Storm Creek Headwall has a number of classic ice and mixed climbs. Climbers have added a number of moderate to hard lines over the years. In 2004, the routes Xena M5, 100 m, Cosban M5, 100
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Scotland, the “Core”

The land where no local or visiting climber will budge on bolts, the hardware-free walls offer hair raising belays, pounding spin-drift and edge-of-your-seat run outs. Scotland is the land of the hardcore climber.  “It’s not at all about gymnastic grades, or safety,
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. Somewhere Over the Rainbow Rock and Ice reported on a new five-pitch M11 in Ouray, Colorado. Jason Nelson and Beth Goralski climbed Somewhere Over the
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