Gripped Magazine

Ice

New Route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson

Americans Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper climbed a new route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson from May 1 to 4.  Based on the Ruth Glacier, the pair climbed the Stairway to Heaven VI, A1, M6, WI4, AI5+X with support from the Mugs Stump Award. Jennings wrote on his socia
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New Route on Huntington by Mayo and Wharton

Mount Huntington has long been one of the most sought-after alpine peaks in Alaska. Canadians Nick Buda and Bryce Brown recently climbed The Harvard Route and reported great conditions. Will Mayo posted this on social media on May 12: “Josh Wharton and I climbed a new route
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The 2014 Chamonix Mountain Festival

The second annual Chamonix Mountain Festival runs from June 29 to July 6, 2014.   The Chamonix Mountain Festival is a gathering for like-minded climbers: • Friendly atmosphere – organised by mountaineers for mountaineers • No age limit, no grade limit • One great all
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Alaska’s Revelations by Ian Welsted

For three weeks in April, three Rockies-based climbers ventured into the rarely visited Revelations range. Ian Welsted, who was recently awarded the Piolets d’Or, Kris Irwin, owner of Rockies Ice Specialists, and Darren Vonk, a climbing guide with Yamnuska Mountain School.
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Canadians’ Success in Alaska’s Revelation Mountains

Ian Welsted, Darren Vonk and Kris Irwin are back to Talkeetna, AK, after three weeks in the rarely-visited Revelation mountains. The John Lauchlan supported expedition to the Revelations which departed on April 1, returned successfully to Talkeetna on April 23. The first recorded
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Climbing Continues on Everest North

As climbers and Sherpas are putting the pieces together after last week’s deadly avalanche above Everest’s Base Camp on the Nepal south side of the mountain, teams on the north (China) side continue to climb. The Chinese Base Camp is at 5,199 metres. Here is a list of
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Update: Another Body Recovered on Everest

Another victim of the avalanche on Everest has been found, the death toll is now at 13. Update on Monday April 21: Search operations called off for the three remaining Sherpa.  Lakpa Sherpa of the Himalayan Rescue Operation announced from Everest Base Camp, “We have called
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Updated: Everest Avalanche kills at least 12, no climbing for four days

An avalanche on Everest has killed a number of local guides in an area known as the Popcorn Field, just above Base Camp 5,800 metres. One of the worst tragedies for climbing, the Sherpa, Nepal and everyone involved.  We reported less than a month ago that Mingma Tenzing, a Sherpa
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Ontario’s Winter Blood Wall

Ontario has dozens of amazing ice routes and during the long, cold winter of 2013/14, a number of equally-amazing mixed routes were established. Toronto climber Sam Eastman-Zaleski shares the story of how a few such climbs came to be. Story by Sam Eastman-Zaleski In recent years,
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New-age send on an old-school route — Mont Blanc

Jeff Mercier and Corrado Pesce have free climbed Chris Bonington and Lito Tegada-Flores’ 1965 route on the West Face of Aiguille du Plan, Mont Blanc. Urs Kallen, the Swiss-born Calgary climber who pioneered dozens of new routes in the Rockies in the 60s and 70s said, this
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