Gripped Magazine

Ice

Canadians Win 2014 Piolets d’Or

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski, along with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck, have won the 2014 Piolets d’Or. The Piolets d’Or jury has come to a decision based on the Piolets d’Or charter. The technical committee of the Piolets d’Or provided a list
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March Winds and April Ice Bring Forth May Sn’ice?

In the Rockies, the ice is growing. Don’t put the ice tools away yet, there is an extended forecast of below-zero temps and more snow.  The long winter is affecting early season rock climbing across Canada. Ontario has one of its longest ice seasons on record with
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Fast Dani Arnold “Sprints” Up Big Ice

Swiss climber Dani Arnold soloed Crack Baby WI6, 380 m in only 27 minutes. The climb is on the Breitwangflue in Switzerland.  Arnold is best known for his current speed record on the Eiger North Face, which he climbed in 2 hours and 28 minutes on April 20, 2011. As a mountain
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New Coire Dubious in the Rockies

The Rockies Lodder Peak has long been the scene of winter mixed climbing. The classic Coire Dubh Integral is one of the best 5.7, WI2+, 600-metre alpine-esque mixed routes in Canada. After a few hundred metres of easy ice, you climb corners and pockets to the saddle north of
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Sarah Hueniken sends Steel Koan

Steel Koan is one of the hardest mixed climbs in North America, the M13+ climbs up the Cineplex cave behind Panther Falls in the Rockies. Hueniken sent the route eight years after its first ascent. In April 2013, Hueniken became the first North American woman to climb M12 after
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Okanagan’s Mythologic

The team of Lyle Knight and Marc Piche bagged the first ascent of Mythologic, a long difficult ice route on the Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan, in 2011. Knight described Mythologic WI6, 140 m as “a skinny version of Nemesis in the Rockies” with “consistently hard” climbing
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Crazy! Ice Climber Rides Falling Pillar, Walks Away Unharmed

Sub-Zero explores the souls of four top Canadian ice climbers and this time we meet John Freeman, a mountain guide and rope access supervisor living in Canmore, Alberta, Canada who was recently in the climbing news for establishing a new route at Helmcken Falls with Will Gadd
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Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski have been nominated for their ascent of K6 West. The jury of the 22nd Piolets d’Or selected the following five ascents from a list of 76, no easy task. The president, George Lowe, together with Catherine Destivelle, Erri de Luca,
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. The Tepui  Rolando Larcer, Maurizo Ovigliz and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuelza, Escalador
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Charlie Porter Dies, 1951-2014

Charlie Porter was an American rock climber, big-wall pioneer and mountaineer. Known for his first ascents in Yosemite, Canada and Alaska, and for his influence on the climbing community with his creation and development of original equipment. He was one of the first people to
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