Gripped Magazine

Ice

Ontario’s Winter Blood Wall

Ontario has dozens of amazing ice routes and during the long, cold winter of 2013/14, a number of equally-amazing mixed routes were established. Toronto climber Sam Eastman-Zaleski shares the story of how a few such climbs came to be. Story by Sam Eastman-Zaleski In recent years,
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New-age send on an old-school route — Mont Blanc

Jeff Mercier and Corrado Pesce have free climbed Chris Bonington and Lito Tegada-Flores’ 1965 route on the West Face of Aiguille du Plan, Mont Blanc. Urs Kallen, the Swiss-born Calgary climber who pioneered dozens of new routes in the Rockies in the 60s and 70s said, this
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Exclusive: El Cocuy – An Alpine Paradise in its Death Throw

El Cocuy, in northeastern Colombia is a park of staggering beauty, and alpine big walls that the world seems to know little about. Story and photos by Cory Hall Alien frailegon plants litter the sub-glacier landscape, their stocks pushing soft bunny-eared leaves skyward towards
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Ski-Mountaineering First

Ski-mountaineering combines two extreme disciplines, mountain or alpine climbing and big, back-country skiing. Chris Brazeau and Jonny Simms climbed and made the first descent of the North Glacier on Mount Stephen in B.C. on March 13. Brazeau and Simms are two of Canada’s
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Everest 2014, off to a bad start

The commercial climbing season on Mount Everest is about to begin and it could not be off to a worse start. As teams prepare to arrive in Base Camp, there’s already been a fatality and accident on the South Side. Mingma Tenzing, a Sherpa with Peaks Freaks, passed away in
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Rolling Stones, Alpine Free on the Grandes Jorasses

The north face of the Grandes Jorasses is one of the most sought-after alpine walls. Slovenian climbers Luka Lindic and Luka Krajnc recently made a three-day, first free ascent on the 1,000-metre face, during a six-day car-to-car trip. With unstable weather plaguing alpine
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Roetzel and his Icy Solo Link-Up

David Roetzel  of Colorado soloed 15 pitches of mixed ice and rock terrain in one day. He climbed nearly 300 metres of climbing as difficult as WI5 in East Vail, Colorado.  Taking advantage of the soft spring ice, Roetzel put his 10-year plan into action which culminated with The
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Canadians Win 2014 Piolets d’Or

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski, along with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck, have won the 2014 Piolets d’Or. The Piolets d’Or jury has come to a decision based on the Piolets d’Or charter. The technical committee of the Piolets d’Or provided a list
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March Winds and April Ice Bring Forth May Sn’ice?

In the Rockies, the ice is growing. Don’t put the ice tools away yet, there is an extended forecast of below-zero temps and more snow.  The long winter is affecting early season rock climbing across Canada. Ontario has one of its longest ice seasons on record with
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Fast Dani Arnold “Sprints” Up Big Ice

Swiss climber Dani Arnold soloed Crack Baby WI6, 380 m in only 27 minutes. The climb is on the Breitwangflue in Switzerland.  Arnold is best known for his current speed record on the Eiger North Face, which he climbed in 2 hours and 28 minutes on April 20, 2011. As a mountain
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