Gripped Magazine

Ice

Slawinski and Olson Repeat Nophobia

Nophobia was established over four years by Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, John Freeman, and Will Gadd. The 150-metre route in the Ghost River Valley climbs the wall left of the classic Hydrophobia WI5. Nophobia was established over four years before redpoints by Gadd, Mayo and Freeman.
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Patagonia News

The 2014/15 Patagonia season has been a busy one. There’s been a number of ascents, tragedies and with some of the world’s leading alpinists ready to strike, there is more to come. The first ascent of Cerro Torre this season was in September by an Italian team. At
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New Rockies Alpine Route: The Hole

The Rockies have unlimited potential for winter adventures. Surprisingly, one of the most obvious faces was left relatively untouched until recently.   The north face of Lawrence Grassi can be seen from every coffee shop in Canmore, making it quite Euro-esque. The large face
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Ice Climbing World Cup Speed Results and History is Made

The UIAA’s first ever World Cup in North America started with the speed climbing competition on Fri. Dec. 12. The warm weather led to a no-ice speed climbing wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana. Large crowds gathered in Bozeman to watch the event take place. In the end,
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New Moderate Mixed Route in Rockies: Soft Coire

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies’ leading guides and new routers. He has now climbed a number of new routes in the Coire Dubh area on Lodder Peak. After the December cold snap, Mill and his partner Julian headed up the ice pitches on Coire Dubh and climbed the standard M5
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Shivling: the Perfect Attempt

In September 2014, Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Rox made an attempt on Shivling in the Indian Himalayas. Their decision to bail was timely, as the following day a storm came that killed 40 people in Nepal. Teixeira and Rox’s initial plan was to attempt the unclimbed east spur
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Hardest Mixed Pitch in North America: Sent!

Will Mayo and Ryan Vachon worked the moves to a variation to The Mustang M14- in East Vail, Colorado and Mayo took it to the top. Mayo wrote on his Facebook, “Ryan sent the rig all the way to the last bolt below the thin ice finish, took, lowered off, and said, ‘I
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Books for climbers; top winter reads

Cold days and short daytime hours offer prime reading conditions. Here are the top climbing-related reads for winter 2014. Scroll to the bottom for cover shots. The Calling by Barry Blanchard Blanchard’s much-awaited memoirs. A portrait of the power of mountains to lift us
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Nathan Kutcher Climbs Hard New Quebec Route

Nathan Kutcher is no stranger to headlines. He has established a number of hard ice, mixed and drytooling routes. He competes on the world stage at the UIAA ice climbing world cup. Last year, Kutcher spent three days in St. Alban and onsighted three M10s. St. Alban is an all
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Watch Angy Rainer Climb Italy’s Hardest Dry Tool Route

Kamasutra D13+ is the hardest dry tooling route in Italy, bolted by Matteo Rivadossi. Located at Iseo this route was climbed for the first time in January 2014, by Angelika Rainer the three times ice climbing World Champion. This is the video of her ascent, let the new winter
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