Gripped Magazine

Ice

Pierre Lemire Awarded 2015 Summit of Excellence

Pierre Lemire is an accomplished photographer and well-known mountain guide. Lemire has been awarded the 2015 Summit of Excellence, which is an annual honour presented at the Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival. Lemire’s first mountain experiences were on Mount
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New Bugaboos Mixed Route on South Howser

On October 16, Takeshi Tani and Toshiyuki Yamada climbed a new route on the South Howser in the Bugaboos. Their new route is one of the most obvious in the range and surprisingly had been left unclimbed. Tim McAllister, a Bugaboos regular, had visited the area twice in the past
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A Basecamp Radio Conversation with Margo Talbot

Margo Talbot is an author, climber and speaker and is based in the Canadian Rockies. Margo is the author of All That Glitters, A Climber’s Journey Through Addiction and Depression, which is a testament to her strength and the healing power of nature. She recently joined
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Sarah Hueniken Podiums at White Cliff Comp

Sarah Hueniken was the only Canadian to place in the top three for men or women at the 2015 Red Bull White Cliffs comp. The unique competition is held on Oct. 3 and 4 at Scratchell’s Bay, Isle of Wight, where the overhanging chalk cliffs stand 115 metres tall. The winners
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Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Patagonia Peak

Marc-Andre Leclerc returned to Patagonia this fall for a solo link-up of Tomahawk and Exocet on Aguja Standhardt. As the Patagonian winter came to an end, Leclerc made a number trips to the famed Niponino camp in the Torre Valley to deposit gear caches. Then on Sept. 20 and
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Americans Climb New Alpine Route in India

Three American women have climbed a new 600-metre route on Tare Parvat in India. Rachel Spitzer, Lisa Van Sciver and Anna Pfaff have climbed a new 5.6 M4 AI4 WI3 called Unattached up Tare Parvat in Zansker, India. They climbed their new alpine route in a single push without
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New Big Routes in Karakorum on K6 West and Changi Tower

Three Americans visit the Karakorum and climb two big new routes up world-class alpine terrain. Steve Swenson, who splits his time between Seattle and Canmore, joined Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett in the Karakorum for some of July and August and they climbed two major new
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North America’s “Highest Unclimbed Peak” is Climbed in Yukon

Two South American climbers are the first to stand on Malaspina 3,776 metres in the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon. Their 1,900-metre climb has difficulties up to 65 degrees. Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada climbed the remote mountain as part of their Uncharted Project. The
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The 2015 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival and #40EpicYears

The 40th annual Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival starts on October 31 and celebrates #40EpicYears. Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold are known for their ascents of big walls, speed records and unflinching dedication to rock climbing.The Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival is
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Climbing Fitness #3: Rotator Cuff Care

This is the third installment of a new series on how to stretch and strengthen those climbing muscles. It is brought to you by Ashley Edwards and Kate Evans, co-founders of City Yogis in Toronto. As climbers we can all agree, having even the smallest pain in your shoulder can be
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