Gripped Magazine

Ice

Urs Kallen wins Summit of Excellence 2014

Calgary’s Urs Kallen has been awarded the prestigious Summit of Excellence Award for his lifetime of achievements, contributions and mentorship in the world of climbing. Urs Kallen was born in Switzerland in 1943, and was an accomplished mountaineer by the time he arrived
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New Bugaboos Route by Olson and McAllister

Jen Olson and Tim McAllister have established a new route on the South Howser Tower. The great weather has led to excellent autumn conditions in the alpine. Olson and McAllister climbed Ethereal D+ 320 m M6 WI4R on Oct. 10, 2014. The new route climbs a nearly direct line up the
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Korra Pesce sessions the Grande Jorasses

Chamonix-based Korra Pesce has been at the cutting edge of alpine climbing in the Alps for years. This fall, he has focused on the Grande Jorasses and the great alpine conditions. Pesce started his season on the Grande with a solo of the 800-metre Polish Route M6 in just over two
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Brits climb Mount Alberta’s North Face

Visiting U.K. climbers make third ascent of route on Mount Alberta’s North Face. Nick Bullock and Will Sim have made a rare ascent of the north face of the 3,619-metre Mount Alberta via the 2008 route climbed by Steve House and Vince Anderson. Nick Bullock’s blog Will
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George Mallory’s ice axe sold, but was it really his?

George Mallory’s ice axe sold for $240,000 CAD at an auction in April. Questions have been raised about whether the axe belonged to Mallory or not. On Apil 10, a Chrisite’s auction item listed as “Lot 216 – an ice axe” sold for a staggering $240,000
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Mayo Sends Summer Dry-Tool Line

Will Mayo has pieced together the long reaches of this new dry-tool problem in the Ghetto via headlamp. The Existensionalist looks like a like a great way to train for the upcoming mixed/ice season. The route climbs 30 metres along a roof in an abandoned mine near Colorado
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Baffin Island: Canadians climb new routes on big granite!

Four Canadians have returned from a month-long expedition into the heart of the Sam Ford Fjord. Crosby Johnston, Joshua Lavigne, Paul McSorley and Tony Richardson spent the better part of July and August in the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fiord on Baffin Island in Nunavut. By Paul
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New Greenland Route: The Great Shark Hunt

Three climbers have climbed a new route on Greenland’s Shark’s Tooth: The Great Shark Hunt. Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber climbed The Great Shark Hunt on Aug. 18, a 900-metre wall of granite. In 2011, a Russian team made the first
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Wide Awake in the Bugs: stellar-looking new route

Jon Walsh is one of Canada’s leading alpine climbers. In our current issue (Aug/Sept,) he features the Bugaboos in a a photo essay. This summer he headed to the seldom-visited Pigeon Feathers and found a choice route on Wide Awake Tower. Walsh and Michelle Katadtz added
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Climbers die on Mont Blanc during tragic year

Six people went missing on the Mont Blanc massif and were discovered the following day, the group included one mountain guide. Death on Mont Blanc is unfortunatley an all-to-common occurrence. With over-eager guides and casual climbers crowding its slopes, the mountain is one of
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