Gripped Magazine

Ice

Canucks Pioneer Icy Patagonian Chimneys

February 2014, Jonny Simms and Tony Richardson are on a roll in Patagonia, they have climbed another new route. The pair climbed El Busca Jesus in late January. Jonny Simms and Tony Richardson climbed a variation  to the 1968 route Guillot-Conqueugniot, 250 m, 70 degrees
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Canadians Mixing It Up in Scotland

Last week was the British Mountain Club (BMC) winter international meet, 44 climbers from 26 countries gathered in Scotland. Ten new routes and a number of impressive ascents were climbed during a week of perfect Scottish mixed climbing conditions. “Scotland is just as rad
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. Daniel Woods According to 8a.nu, Daniel Woods has been on a sending-spree for the past couple of months. In January he spent time climbing in Penoles,
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Slipstream, a 35-Year Story

In 1979, Jim Elzinga and John Lauchlan did the first ascent of Slipstream, WI4, 1,000 metres, on Mount Snowdome in Alberta. After climbing the first ascent of Slipstream, Lauchlan said, “On December 27, 1979, Jim Elzinga and I left the Icefields parking lot and walked the
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The Anchor Guru

Brent Peters is a climbing guide and guidebook author of Icelines, but he is also leading the charge on updating anchors on ice climbs. From Vancouver Island to Newfoundland, climbers rely on pre-placed bolts as anchors. Anchor standards have changed over the last four decades.
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House, Wharton and Their Hairy Devil

American winter climbing specialists Steve House and Josh Wharton teamed up for a first ascent in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. House and Wharton have a history of climbing new and impressive alpine, ice and mixed routes. On January 14, House posted this to his Facebook,
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Weeping Wall Injury

Report from Brad White, Visitor Safety Programs Specialist, Mountain Guide. Weeping Wall is one of the classic Canadian ice climbs. It is on the Icefields Parkway, north of Banff. We received a report of a serious injury on the Weeping Wall January 8. The second-hand report was
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New Maritime Ice Climbs

January, 2014 – New routes climbed in Nova Scotia by Greg Hughes, Cory Hall, Luc Gallant, Matt Peck and Max Fisher. Click here for an ice climber’s guide to Nova Scotia. Cape D’Or Enter the Dragon WI5 130 m FA Greg Hughes, Max Fisher & Matt Peck Pitch 1-
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Rain Forest Ice in Photos

A collection of photos from some of the West Coast ice being climbed by Paul McSorley and Tony Richardson. Amazing images of ice plastered to granite and clinging to ferns.               
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Olson Sends Winter Dance, First Female Redpoint

Jen Olson has become the first woman to redpoint Winter Dance, WI6, M8, 150 m, in Hyalite Canyon, she climbed it with Tim McAllister. The first ascent was made in 1998 by Alex Lowe and Jim Earl, who established a twelve-bolt ladder through the overhanging rock to reach the
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