Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Fred Beckey Recieves Gold

Fred Beckey is considered by many to be the most accomplished climbers of all time. In 1961, Beckey played a large role in setting the stage for hard alpine routes in Canada with the Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos and the first route up the North Face
Read More

New Rockies Alpine Route: The Hole

The Rockies have unlimited potential for winter adventures. Surprisingly, one of the most obvious faces was left relatively untouched until recently.   The north face of Lawrence Grassi can be seen from every coffee shop in Canmore, making it quite Euro-esque. The large face
Read More

Ice Climbing World Cup Speed Results and History is Made

The UIAA’s first ever World Cup in North America started with the speed climbing competition on Fri. Dec. 12. The warm weather led to a no-ice speed climbing wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana. Large crowds gathered in Bozeman to watch the event take place. In the end,
Read More

New Moderate Mixed Route in Rockies: Soft Coire

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies’ leading guides and new routers. He has now climbed a number of new routes in the Coire Dubh area on Lodder Peak. After the December cold snap, Mill and his partner Julian headed up the ice pitches on Coire Dubh and climbed the standard M5
Read More

Shivling: the Perfect Attempt

In September 2014, Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Rox made an attempt on Shivling in the Indian Himalayas. Their decision to bail was timely, as the following day a storm came that killed 40 people in Nepal. Teixeira and Rox’s initial plan was to attempt the unclimbed east spur
Read More

Books for climbers; top winter reads

Cold days and short daytime hours offer prime reading conditions. Here are the top climbing-related reads for winter 2014. Scroll to the bottom for cover shots. The Calling by Barry Blanchard Blanchard’s much-awaited memoirs. A portrait of the power of mountains to lift us
Read More

New Hard Rockies Mixed Route

In the early 1980s, Jim Elzinga and party climbed a new route up the northeast face of Cirrus Mountain. Cirrus is famous for its west facing Polar Circus and Weeping Wall. In 2011, Elzinga and Gripped editor Brandon Pullan climbed a new route in the valley below the northeast
Read More

Leclerc and Lavigne Climb Wild Thing

Squamish-based Marc-Andre Leclerc and Rockies-based Joshua Lavigne make a rare ascent of Wild Thing VI WI4 M7 1,500 metres on Mount Chephren. Leclerc has been visiting the Rockies for most of November. He climbed a new route with Jon Walsh, The Plum WI6 M7 120 m, soloed Sacre
Read More

UPDATE: Tommy Caldwell Sends Dawn Wall Crux!

After six years of working on the crux-pitch of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall, Tommy Caldwell has sent it. Hello. As Caldwell wrote on his Facebook, “Oh my goodness!!! After six years, I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven’s fight-to-the-death near
Read More

New Rockies Mixed Route: Warm Wet Comfort

Kris Irwin and Jay Mills have climbed a new one-pitch mixed route above Emerald Lake in the Rockies. Irwin, owner of Rockies Ice and Alpine Specialists, and Mills, owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides, teamed up for the first ascent of this moderate, fun looking mixed route
Read More