Gripped Magazine

Mountain

A List of Hard and Steep Canadian Routes

Canada has some hard routes, from burly to long and technical 5.14s. Here is a select list of some of the hardest. By Sophia Vlahos Canadian climbing legend, Sonnie Trotter, has largely influenced the world of climbing in Canada by establishing and making first ascents on
Read More

New Bigwall 5.13 in Norway is Splitter

Dave MacLeod, Jacob Cook and Calum Muskett have made the first free ascent of Disco 2000 on Blåmman, near Tromso in the northern part of Norway. The 13-pitch 5.13 was freed over three days, after aid climbing and working the lower part of the route. MacLeod wrote the following on
Read More

Mount McKinley to be Renamed Denali

Climbers have long referred to North America’s highest mountain by its native name, Denali. U.S. president Barack Obama is visiting Alaska this week to give an urgent message about global warming, saying the state is a canary in the climate change coalmine. His first order
Read More

Hard Repeats and Big First Ascents

From 5.15 repeats in Europe to V15 second ascents in South Africa and new 5.14s in Canada, climbers have been getting after it in August. At the Ramirole crag in the Verdon Gorge, Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of A Muerte Bilou 5.14d. The route climbs a wild 50-metre line
Read More

Carlo Traversi and Sasha DiGiulian Send Eiger’s Magic Mushroom

After weeks of waiting for the the right conditions, Sasha DiGiulian, 22, and Carlo Traversi, 27, climb Magic Mushroom 5.13a on the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. After their send, DiGiulian wrote the following on her social media, “I’ve never tried harder on
Read More

Watch Roland Hemetzberger Send Delirium

As the standard of sport climbing has risen, room is running out at classic crags for climbers to make their mark on classy lines.  Over the past decade, many young climbers are taking their 5.14 skills to big alpine walls. Watch Roland Hemetzberger climb a new 5.14 in the Kaiser
Read More

Everest Open for Autumn Business

Despite Mount Everest’s popular season being in the spring, the fall season often has a number of expeditions aiming for the summit. The Nepalese Sherpa Icefall Doctors have started to “repair” the route through the Khumbu Icefall between Basecamp and Camp One.
Read More

Alex Megos Nabs Second Ascent of Norway 5.15

Alex Megos has made the second ascent of Thor’s hammer 5.15a in Flatanger Cave in Norway. The 60-metre pitch was first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2012 after being equipped by Magnus Midtbo. Megos only needed three days to send the monster route. “Felt harder then the other
Read More

North America’s “Highest Unclimbed Peak” is Climbed in Yukon

Two South American climbers are the first to stand on Malaspina 3,776 metres in the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon. Their 1,900-metre climb has difficulties up to 65 degrees. Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada climbed the remote mountain as part of their Uncharted Project. The
Read More

New Free-Solo Slackline World Record Set on West Coast

A new free-solo slackline record was set in Squamish on August 2nd. Spencer Seabrooke walked 64 metres un-tethered across a void 290 metres deep in the northern most gully of the Stawamus Chief. By Drew Copeland “I knew it was the right time; everything felt good,” said Spencer,
Read More

Gripped Subscription