Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Flashback to Rockies Golden Era and Trotter’s New Route

The Rockies are full of old projects, routes that were too technically difficult to free at the time. Urs Kallen told Sonnie Trotter about one such project. By Sonnie Trotter In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time,
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Squamish Mountain Festival: It’s about the journey

The Squamish Mountain Festival, presented by Arc’teryx, is taking place on Canada’s West Coast this weekend. Lauren Watson has been covering the event for Gripped and she reports that the event is a combination of inspirational talks mixed with hilarious
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New Rockies Route: Miner’s Waltz in C (hoss) Sharp (with a) Minor

Ian Welsted and Sam Eastman have established the first route up the north face of Lawrence Grassi Peak above Canmore. It is hard to believe that this big face has never seen an ascent. Climbers have tried it in winter, but with no luck. Welsted and Eastman climbed the back of Ha
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New Cheakamus four-pitch sport route

Conny Amelunxen and Tennessee Trent have established a new four-pitch 5.11 north of Squamish. The Dingo At My Baby 5.11a is a fun looking new 5.11 that was cleaned, bolted and climbed in the spring of 2014. The route is in Cheakamus Canyon between Squamish and Whistler. As
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Cory Hall (1989-2014)

Canadian climber Cory Hall has died in a climbing accident in Peru while climbing the 5,885-metre Mount Piramide. I first met Cory during one of his Rockies trips. He rolled into Canmore to climb some of the bigger mountains, some of the classic routes. I knew when I met him that
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New Route in Canada’s Selkirks

Mount Sir Donald is nestled atop Rogers Pass, B.C., its northwest ridge is one of Canada’s classic climbs. Colin Haley and Sarah Hart established a new route up Sir Donald’s north face during the third week of June, they named it Sashimi Don. They climbed the
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Chamonix Dispatches, June 22 – Acclimatization

Chamonix is nestled into the valley between the Aiguille Rouges and Aiguille du Midi. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of alpinism and is at the cutting-edge of modern mountain sports. Gripped editor Brandon Pullan is in Chamonix for a month, at first for the Arc’teryx
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Hukkataival and Megos take skills to new heights

Nalle Hukkataival and Alex Megos have put their skills to the test on some big routes. Hukkataival climbed one of Beat Kammerlander’s incredible six-pitch routes in Ratikon called Silbergeier 5.14a. Hukkataival reported on Facebook: We managed to climb the legendary
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New speed record for female soloist on The Nose

Jes Meiris, a climbing guide from Colorado, climbed The Nose 5.9, C2 in only 27 hours, beating the previous record by nearly four days. The 32-year-old Meiris had climbed the route six times before setting out on June 7 set the new record. The previous record was hel
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New Route on Kooshdakhaa Spire

In Feb. 2014, we announced that Canadian Max Fisher and American Erik Bonnett won the Copp-Dash Award for the  first ascent of a 700-metre spire that forms the southern summit of Kooshdakhaa in the eastern Alaska/northern Yukon Coast Mountains. By Max Fisher Over the past 21 days
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