Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Remote Northwest Adventure Yields New Long Routes

Canadian Max Fisher and American Eric Bonnett have returned from another successful trip to Alaska and Northwestern B.C., where they’ve climbed two new long alpine granite routes. By Max Fisher During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Erik Bonnett and I
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Europeans Make First Ascent of Alaska’s Mount Reaper

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the unclimbed Mount Reaper in Alaska by their Sugar Man M7 A1 750 metres route up the north face. Mount Reaper was not only unclimbed, but reportedly unnamed and is on the Pitchfork Glacier near Mount Citadel and Berserker. The
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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab. Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles
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Climber Dies on The Nose

During one of the busier Yosemite seasons of late, a 22-year-old climber from Boulder, CO died on The Nose on May 27. YOSAR reponded to a call on May 27 after a climber fell 60 metres to the end of his rope while attempting to rappel from Camp Six to Camp Five to retrieve a piece
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Alpinist Markus Pucher Solos New Patagonian Line

In April, the strong Austrian climber, Markus Pucher, soloed a new route on a rarely attempted peak near El Chalten. On his Facebook page, Pucher wrote, “New route on West Face of Marconi Sur. Into the Wild 800-metre M5.” The Marconi range were named for Guglielmo
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Quebec’s Difficult New Spring Mixed Route: The Last Ronin

Quebec climbers climb a new route in memory of their friend and accomplished climber, Yannick Girard. By Louis Rousseau The day was perfect, except for the March date: Friday the 13th. We stopped for coffee and cakes in Baie, St. Paul at the bakery. We decided to finish our
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Evan Hau Sends Another New 5.14 in Rockies

Evan Hau is a Calgary-based climber who is among the top sport climbers in the country. He is spending his summer finding and sending some of the Bow Valley’s last hard projects.  While on his journey to find Canada’s first 5.15a, Hau’s been busy putting down
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Quebec’s New Wall is Big and Splitter

Quebec has some of the best rock climbing in Canada and while many think the potential has been tapped out, a new wall on Lac du Cap proves otherwise. Serge Alexandre Demers Giroux and friends explored a new wall, similar in appearance to Ontario’s Bon Echo, on May 16. The
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John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
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Epic Climber Series: Watch Tommy Caldwell Climb an Ice-Covered Crack

EpicTV’s Epic Climber series is about to wrap up and for the final climb, they push some of our favourite climbing stars to the limit. The conditions might have seemed perfect as the four climbers arrive at the summit of Chamonix’s Aiguille du Midi, but on the rock,
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