Gripped Magazine

Mountain

New Big Route in the Bugaboos

Tony McLane and Nathan MacDonald have climbed a new moderate on the North Howser Towers in Canada’s Bugaboos. On July 28, the pair climbed up the Shooting Gallery and crossed the Seventh Rifle to gain new ground. The route follows a large prow between The Real Mexcalito and
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K2 Success!

A record number of climbers stood on K2 on July 26. Despite the near-perfect conditions, one climber has died at Camp Four. K2 is located on the border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang,
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Second Ascent of Bone Thief Extension by MacCallum

Calgary-based Bonar MacCallum made the second ascent of one of the Rockies burlier 5.14s on July 25, 2014. MacCallum sent Bone Thief Extension which is a longer, more technical add-on of the route Bone Thief in Echo Canyon above Canmore. It is the only 5.14 at the Lookout and
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K2: teams combine efforts for summit push 60 years after first ascent

A number of climbing parties on the Abruzzi Spur have teamed up and are making a collective effort for a summit push on July 26. K2 is located on the border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of
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Florine Sets Yosemite Record

Hans Florine has made the first one-day solo ascent of Triple Direct on El Capitan. Fifty-year-old Florine climbed the route in temperatures over 40 degrees Celsius. He started climbing just before 6 a.m. and rope-soloed each pitch except for the easy terrain. He reached the top
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Flashback to Rockies Golden Era and Trotter’s New Route

The Rockies are full of old projects, routes that were too technically difficult to free at the time. Urs Kallen told Sonnie Trotter about one such project. By Sonnie Trotter In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time,
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Squamish Mountain Festival: It’s about the journey

The Squamish Mountain Festival, presented by Arc’teryx, is taking place on Canada’s West Coast this weekend. Lauren Watson has been covering the event for Gripped and she reports that the event is a combination of inspirational talks mixed with hilarious
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New Rockies Route: Miner’s Waltz in C (hoss) Sharp (with a) Minor

Ian Welsted and Sam Eastman have established the first route up the north face of Lawrence Grassi Peak above Canmore. It is hard to believe that this big face has never seen an ascent. Climbers have tried it in winter, but with no luck. Welsted and Eastman climbed the back of Ha
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New Cheakamus four-pitch sport route

Conny Amelunxen and Tennessee Trent have established a new four-pitch 5.11 north of Squamish. The Dingo At My Baby 5.11a is a fun looking new 5.11 that was cleaned, bolted and climbed in the spring of 2014. The route is in Cheakamus Canyon between Squamish and Whistler. As
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Cory Hall (1989-2014)

Canadian climber Cory Hall has died in a climbing accident in Peru while climbing the 5,885-metre Mount Piramide. I first met Cory during one of his Rockies trips. He rolled into Canmore to climb some of the bigger mountains, some of the classic routes. I knew when I met him that
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