Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Dawn Wall – Tommy Sends Pitches 15 and 16

Since Dec. 27, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have been attempting to free the Dawn Wall. A project that is going into its seventh year. On Dec. 29, we reported that Caldwell and Jorgeson had climbed pitches one through nine, which are as follows: 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b,
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100 Years of Big-Wall Free Climbing

In light of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson making one of the most historic big-wall free ascents, let’s take a look back at the progression of the sport with select climbs. “It is a crest of granite… perfectly inaccessible, being probably the only one of the
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Kilian Jornet Sets New Aconcagua Speed Record

Spanish runner Kilian Jornet has climbed his way to a new speed record on Aconcagua. He made a round-trip of the technically easy peak in 12 hours and 49 minutes. On Dec. 23, Jornet set the record on the highest peak outside of Asia at 6,9,62 metres in less than 13 hours, a trip
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Slawinski and Olson Repeat Nophobia

Nophobia was established over four years by Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, John Freeman, and Will Gadd. The 150-metre route in the Ghost River Valley climbs the wall left of the classic Hydrophobia WI5. Nophobia was established over four years before redpoints by Gadd, Mayo and Freeman.
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Patagonia News

The 2014/15 Patagonia season has been a busy one. There’s been a number of ascents, tragedies and with some of the world’s leading alpinists ready to strike, there is more to come. The first ascent of Cerro Torre this season was in September by an Italian team. At
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Patagonia Accident, Fatality and Risk Management

The 2014/15 season is off to a busy and fatal start. With the increased popularity of climbing in Patagonia, changes to the system might be imperative. Kastining Diltman fell into a crevasse on the north side of Fitz Roy while descending below the Supercanaleta. He was NOT roped
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Fred Beckey Recieves Gold

Fred Beckey is considered by many to be the most accomplished climbers of all time. In 1961, Beckey played a large role in setting the stage for hard alpine routes in Canada with the Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos and the first route up the North Face
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New Rockies Alpine Route: The Hole

The Rockies have unlimited potential for winter adventures. Surprisingly, one of the most obvious faces was left relatively untouched until recently.   The north face of Lawrence Grassi can be seen from every coffee shop in Canmore, making it quite Euro-esque. The large face
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Ice Climbing World Cup Speed Results and History is Made

The UIAA’s first ever World Cup in North America started with the speed climbing competition on Fri. Dec. 12. The warm weather led to a no-ice speed climbing wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana. Large crowds gathered in Bozeman to watch the event take place. In the end,
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New Moderate Mixed Route in Rockies: Soft Coire

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies’ leading guides and new routers. He has now climbed a number of new routes in the Coire Dubh area on Lodder Peak. After the December cold snap, Mill and his partner Julian headed up the ice pitches on Coire Dubh and climbed the standard M5
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