Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Happy Birthday Fred Beckey!

Fred Beckey turns 91. Born on January 14, 1923, Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey has become one of the most influential climbers ever. In 1961, Beckey played a large role setting the stage for hard alpine routes in Canada with the Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser Tower in the
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Canadians Receive 2014 Mugs Stump Award

Ian Welsted and Jason Kruk will be attempting Nuptse’s South Face, awarded 2014 Mugs Stump Award. The Mugs Stump Award is given annually to climbers attempting alpine climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light and clean tactics. The awards are a tribute to the late Mugs
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Pou Brothers Send in Montserrat, Route Gets Chopped!

Iker and Eneko Pou’s ascent of a Monsterrat project brings ethics debate back into the spotlight. In 2002, David Tarrago along with  Raul Ballesteros, Dani Fernandez, Xavier Garcia, Toni Castelló and Ana Valero bolted a six-pitch route in Monsterrat. They selected the wall
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Big Competition Weekend

First major comps of 2014, for full results, be sure to check Gripped’s website throughout the weekend. Tour de Bloc The first stop for the Canadian Tour de Bloc tour in 2014 is at Climber’s Rock, Burlington, Ont., on Jan. 11. Ouray Ice Festival The 19th annual
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The Hardest Route Never Climbed

The Dawn Wall Project, the complete collection. The route has been making headlines for years. Tommy Caldwell’s project is so big and hard, sport climbing phenom Chris Sharma went to have a look. Here are 12 videos that shed light on the world’s biggest, big wall
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Beautiful New Route on Mount Rugged

New 700-metre, moderate route on Vancouver Island. Henrik Hinkkala and  Hunter Lee climbed a new route on the North West face of Mount Rugged, the Lee/Hinkkala, IV, WI3, 700 m. The conditions were reportedly excellent. Earlier in the year, a new route was climbed on the
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Aconcogua Fatalities

Two Americans have died on Aconcagua, 6,962 m, South America’s highest peak. Jarod Von Rueden, 22, and Francis Keenan, 28, set out for Aconcogua on December 20. Josep Foncen, 19, was with them, but refused to continue climbing and turned around before the Polish Glacier,
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Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award Winners

Lyman Spitzer, Jr. was a theoretical physicist, astronomer and as a mountaineer, he made the first ascent of Mount Thor, 1,675 m, with David Morton in 1965. Spitzer established the Cutting Edge Award with the American Alpine Club. 2014 winners Allan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva
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Ralf Dujmovits Quits Nanga Parbat Attempt

German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits has quit his Nanga Parbat winter attempt. This is the 18th winter attempt on the mountain that has not succeeded. High avalanche risk is the reason for his decision. Two ice towers above 6,000 m are prone to serac fall activity. Dujmovits’
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New Island Alpine on Big Den

New Route on Big Den, Strathcona, Vancouver Island, December, 2013 Nic Manders, Garner Bergeron, Philip Stone and Josh Overdijk have made the first ascent of Mia Couloir, IV, WI4, 700 m, on the north east face of Big Den, 1,774 m. The approach to camp took eight hours, the route
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