Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Canadians Among Winners for Banff Festival Book Awards

The 2015 Banff Mountain Book Festival awards have been announced and the grand prize will be awarded on Nov. 5. There were 139 entries into this year’s competition. Of the eight awards, two Canadians won for their category. Richard Wagamese’s Medicine Walk, published
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Canadians Sending Outside of Canada

It’s fall, which means Canadians are packing their gear and travelling to where temps are prime for sending. A popular autumn destination is Red River Gorge (RRG) in Kentucky. The area’s popularity has grown over the past decade as more climbers turn to sport
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New Bugaboos Mixed Route on South Howser

On October 16, Takeshi Tani and Toshiyuki Yamada climbed a new route on the South Howser in the Bugaboos. Their new route is one of the most obvious in the range and surprisingly had been left unclimbed. Tim McAllister, a Bugaboos regular, had visited the area twice in the past
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Slovenian and Canadian Send at Quebec’s Cap Trinite

This fall, Slovenian climber Gasper Pintar teamed up with Quebec-based Em Pellerin for some Cap Trinite climbing.  Pellerin is a Quebec-based climber who has climbed all around the world, from Catalunya, Switzerland, France, Italy, Austria, Germany, Spain, Mexico, Turkey, Greece,
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Fifth Known Ascent of Yamnuska’s Hardest Route

Australian climber Doug McConnell is visiting the Rockies and sent one of the area’s hardest routes. McConnell sent Blue Jeans 5.13b on one of the steepest sections of Yamnuska, a south-facing wall in the Rockies. After four days of effort, McConnell sent the route with
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Late Season New Route in Bugaboos Looks Splitter

During an ice/mixed climb reconnaissance, climbers find and climb splitter new route in the Bugaboos. Tim McAllister and Pat O’Sullivan were in the Bugaboos on Oct. 1 to scope early fall mixed conditions. They found dry rock and with decent weather climbed a new six-pitch
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Operation Hooker: Wyoming’s Hard Big Wall

In 2013 Nik Berry, Dave Allfrey and Mason Earle hiked into the Wind River Range in Wyoming to explore the free-climbing potential of the area’s remote alpine faces.  Having forgotten to bring a topo of their objective, they found themselves on an old Mount Hooker aid route
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Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Patagonia Peak

Marc-Andre Leclerc returned to Patagonia this fall for a solo link-up of Tomahawk and Exocet on Aguja Standhardt. As the Patagonian winter came to an end, Leclerc made a number trips to the famed Niponino camp in the Torre Valley to deposit gear caches. Then on Sept. 20 and
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Upcoming West Coast Events for A Youth Wasted Climbing

David Chaundy-Smart is the author of A Youth Wasted Climbing and will be giving two presentations on the West Coast this month. Smart was one of the leading Canadian climbers in the 1980s. Along with Sam Cohen, he started Gripped Magazine in the late 1990s. Published by Rocky
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Alex Honnold Makes Second Ascent of a Todd Skinner Route

Alex Honnold has made the second ascent of a difficult route on the Leaning Tower.  Todd Skinner and Jim Hewett sent Wet Lycra Nightmare, an eight-pitch 5.13d, on Yosemite’s Leaning Tower in 2004. The hard route is the free variation to Wet Denim Daydream 5.6 A3,
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