Gripped Magazine

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Canadians Sending in Japan, Scotland, Patagonia and Tasmania

Some of Canada’s top climbers have gone abroad for ice, rock and icy rock.  First was a trip to Scotland for the icy rock. Alpine climbers Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski were invited to the annual BMC winter festival. The two Piolet d’Or-winning climbers became
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Brette Harrington Solos Patagonia Route

American alpinist Brette Harrington has arrived in Patagonia for the winter. On her Instagram, she reported soloing the classic route called Austriaca on Aguja de l’S. The route was first climbed in 1987 by Hans Bärnthaler and Ewald Lidl from Austria. Pataclimb.com has
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Canadians at Final Ice World Cup of 2016

The final Ice Climbing World Cup of 2016 has wrapped up in Rabenstein, Italy. A number of Canadians made the trip to Italy for the big event. The overall winners were Korean Han Na Rai Song for the women and Slovenian Janez Svoljsak for the men. For Canadian women in
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Mascarenas and Coleman are New USA Bouldering National Champs

The USA Climbing Bouldering National Championships finals took place in Madison on Jan. 30. In 2015, Nathaniel Coleman and Megan Mascarenas were the talk of the town with their impressive comp results. At the first major American comp of 2016, they proved it was no fluke and both
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Results From Ontario Open National Series Comp

On Jan. 30, the first Ontario Open National Series Event took place at True North Climbing in Toronto. Some of Ontario’s strongest comp climbers made the trip to True North for the first Provincial comp of the season. For the women, Elise Sethna took home first place,
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Ontario Bouldering Provincials This Weekend

Top climbers from eastern Canada are at True North Climbing this weekend. The event is the first Ontario Open National Series Event of 2016. Strong climbers including Elise Sethna, Celeste Wall, Andre DeFelice and Lucas Uchida will be competing. Qualifiers and Finals will be
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Second Ascent of Original Font Problem l’Alchimiste

Charles Albert has made the second ascent of the original l’Alchimiste and the fourth ascent of the problem. A few days ago, we reported that Alban Levier made the third ascent of the problem via a 2015 variation by Nalle Hukkataival that Levier graded V15. The original
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Big Sexy’s Yodel is Rockies Newest Mixed Route

Ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies is reaching mid-season and climbers are finding new ground to swing and scratch their way up. In B.C., a popular climbing area is the Yoho Valley Road where the big ice climb Takakkaw Falls is found. The area has dozens of mixed and pure ice
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Climbers Aim to Save B.C. Crag

The Kinnaird Bluffs in Castlegar, B.C., are for sale climbers are trying to save access by purchasing the land. Leading the way is The Association of West Kootenay Rock Climbers (TAWKROC). They have made an offer to the land owner that has been accepted. The 17-acre piece of land
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Third Ascent of Hard Font Problem

Alban Levier recently sent l’Alchimiste V15 in Fontainebleau for its third ascent. The route was first climbed by Marc Le Menestrel in 1996 at V13, but later a crucial hold was chipped off. In 2015, Nalle Hukkataival made the second ascent and first since the hold went missing.
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