Gripped Magazine

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Sarah Hueniken sends Steel Koan

Steel Koan is one of the hardest mixed climbs in North America, the M13+ climbs up the Cineplex cave behind Panther Falls in the Rockies. Hueniken sent the route eight years after its first ascent. In April 2013, Hueniken became the first North American woman to climb M12 after
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Everest is cheaper, cleaner and safer?

“Climbers will have to bring down 8 kg of extra waste or face legal action as government tackles rubbish mountain in Himalayas.” said tourism ministry official Madhusudan Burlakoti. Everest is an important revenue earner for Nepal, with hundreds climbing during the
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Okanagan’s Mythologic

The team of Lyle Knight and Marc Piche bagged the first ascent of Mythologic, a long difficult ice route on the Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan, in 2011. Knight described Mythologic WI6, 140 m as “a skinny version of Nemesis in the Rockies” with “consistently hard” climbing
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Crazy! Ice Climber Rides Falling Pillar, Walks Away Unharmed

Sub-Zero explores the souls of four top Canadian ice climbers and this time we meet John Freeman, a mountain guide and rope access supervisor living in Canmore, Alberta, Canada who was recently in the climbing news for establishing a new route at Helmcken Falls with Will Gadd
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Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski have been nominated for their ascent of K6 West. The jury of the 22nd Piolets d’Or selected the following five ascents from a list of 76, no easy task. The president, George Lowe, together with Catherine Destivelle, Erri de Luca,
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Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. The Tepui  Rolando Larcer, Maurizo Ovigliz and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuelza, Escalador
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Patagonia’s Mega.. boulders?

Patagonia is known for its granite spires, Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, but over the years, alpine climbers kept busy on rest days by establishing some easy to hard boulder problems. Bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole made the trip and climbed a number of new lines, including a
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Charlie Porter Dies, 1951-2014

Charlie Porter was an American rock climber, big-wall pioneer and mountaineer. Known for his first ascents in Yosemite, Canada and Alaska, and for his influence on the climbing community with his creation and development of original equipment. He was one of the first people to
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Two Eight-Time Champs at ABS 15

Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio won their eighth titles at the 15th American Bouldering Society national championships. Some of America’s top boulderers gathered in Colorado Springs to compete at ABS 15. An exciting finish kept the audience on the edge of their seat.
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Repeated! Overhead Hazard for Emmett and Premrl

Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have repeated Overhead Hazard, M13, 200 m, at Helmcken Falls, B.C. From January 28 to February 13, Will Gadd, John Freeman, Sarah Hueniken and Katie Bono spent countless hours establishing Canada’s biggest, wildest mixed climb, see here for more
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