Gripped Magazine

News

Spring Link-up on Yam

Raphael Slawinski and Jesse Huey teamed up for an impressive link-up of two of Yamnuska’s classic routes. Urs Kallen and Billy Davidson climbed CMC Wall and Yellow Edge in the early 70s. The routes are the two hardest lines on the Kallen 34 list, both committing 5.11s.
Read More

New Mexico Mountains are new National Monument

The Organ Mountains are an iconic part of the Mesilla Valley, New Mexico. This week they will be given the status of national monument. The Las Cruces Sun reports: “President Obama will sign a proclamation Wednesday establishing the Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National
Read More

Results from the Nationals

The Canadian Nationals for lead and speed climbing were held on the weekend at Allez Up in Montreal. The next major competition in Canada will be the Toronto World Cup, see here for details. Men’s Open 1. Marshal German 2. Nicolas Fournier 3. Mike Doyle Women’s Open
Read More

Squamish Buttress, new pitches

Two new pitches have been added to the top of the Squamish Buttress on the West Coast’s granite landmark. Drew Dochstader and Paul Ludolph have cleaned and climbed two 5.10 pitches above the last pitch of the classic route Squamish Buttress. From Squamish climbing: The new
Read More

Yosemite’s Unemployment Line Freed

The Unemployment Line on Mount Broderick in Yosemite was first climbed 1982 by Alan Bartlett, Jim May and Stever Gerberding. Shaun Reed and Scott Nelson made the first free ascent of the route on April 24, Cedar Wright and James Lucas made the second free ascent a week later.
Read More

Garnbret sends Katakombe

Slovenian Janja Garnbret, 15, has made an ascent of Katakombe 5.14a in Kotecnik, Slovenia. She had previously climbed a number of 5.13+ routes and had attempted Katakombe in 2013. She is currently a European youth champion in lead an bouldering. For more awesome photos, click the
Read More

Watch Live! World Cup Innsbruck

On Friday, May 16 the fourth stage of the World Cup will take place in Innsbruck, Austria. A record number of participants have signed up to compete. There are 71 females and 85 males who will try to qualify in the Innsbruck which is a new record of participants. Adam Ondra,
Read More

Everest Illegal, two women at camp two without permission

There were 40 expeditions planned to climb Everest from the Nepalese side of the mountain before the April 18 avalanche which killed 16 Sherpas. Last week we reported that two climbers rented a helicopter and flew to camp two, which is also called the Valley of Silence. Born in
Read More

Amma Bags Two V15s in a Day

The 24-year-old Japanese climber, Sachi Amma, has sent two V15s in a day. Both routes are in Shiobara, Japan. Amma started climbed when he was 10, “I immediately was drawn to the interesting challenges and problems climbing provided. I soon started competing, and was even
Read More

New Route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson

Americans Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper climbed a new route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson from May 1 to 4.  Based on the Ruth Glacier, the pair climbed the Stairway to Heaven VI, A1, M6, WI4, AI5+X with support from the Mugs Stump Award. Jennings wrote on his socia
Read More