Gripped Magazine

News

Ashima and Kai light it up at the Ring of Fire

The 2014 Ring of Fire Climbing Competition’s final round was on May 3 at Central Rock in Watertown M.A. The two young crushers who have been making headlines of late, Kai Lightner and Ashima Shiraishi, took top spots in the open category, an amazing performance by two
Read More

Canadians climb Harvard Route, and other Alaska news

The Harvard Route is a classic in the Alaska Range. The Harvard is a  mixed route with steep aid climbing on some of the best granite in the range. Mount Huntington is one of the most aesthetic peaks in North America. On May 4, Canmore-based Bryce Brown and Thunder Bay climber
Read More

Nalle Sends 13-Year Project, New V16

Finnish boulderer Nalle Hukkataival has linked a sit-start to Bugeleisen in Austria, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world at V16. Bugeleisen is Klem Loskot’s 2001 masterpiece in Austria’s Maltatal valley. The route has had little attention from top
Read More

Sherpa Fund Raises $300,000

The Sherpa Fund was established after the tragic avalanche on Everest. A group of 10 photographers, with years of experience working with the Sherpa people, donated prints to be sold at $100 each, 3,000 have been purchased. One-hundred per cent of proceeds from the sale will go
Read More

The Circus Won’t Go On

The spring avalanche that killed up to 16 Sherpas (13 confirmed) has left the world of climbing in the same position as the world of organized sports since the racist comments by Donald Sterling. The incidents have sparked outrage from athletes, spectators (armchair mountaineers)
Read More

Alaska’s Revelations by Ian Welsted

For three weeks in April, three Rockies-based climbers ventured into the rarely visited Revelations range. Ian Welsted, who was recently awarded the Piolets d’Or, Kris Irwin, owner of Rockies Ice Specialists, and Darren Vonk, a climbing guide with Yamnuska Mountain School.
Read More

Alpine Club of Canada’s Jen Higgins Fund goes to…

The Jen Higgins Fund was established in 1997 “to promote alpine-related outdoor pursuits for young women.” Until her death at the age of 22, Higgins set an outstanding example for young women with her unique combination of “… a love of the outdoors,
Read More

Canadians’ Success in Alaska’s Revelation Mountains

Ian Welsted, Darren Vonk and Kris Irwin are back to Talkeetna, AK, after three weeks in the rarely-visited Revelation mountains. The John Lauchlan supported expedition to the Revelations which departed on April 1, returned successfully to Talkeetna on April 23. The first recorded
Read More

Everest, an industry in peril?

The April 18 avalanche that killed 13 Sherpas, three remain missing, has raised many questions as to what will happen with the commercial climbing industry on the Everest South Col Route. As we reported, climbing on the north side of Everest continues. “Many people have
Read More

Climbing Continues on Everest North

As climbers and Sherpas are putting the pieces together after last week’s deadly avalanche above Everest’s Base Camp on the Nepal south side of the mountain, teams on the north (China) side continue to climb. The Chinese Base Camp is at 5,199 metres. Here is a list of
Read More