Gripped Magazine

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The Cobra Lost Its Head

One of the iconic towers of the Utah desert is no more. Reports are that the Cobra Tower fell over during bad weather. The delicate pillar was first climbed at 5.11 by Jimmie Dunn in the 90s. Many climbers have encountered rock they question and most  knew the ancient rock
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Hau sends new hard route in Rockies: The Prestige 5.14c

Calgary’s Evan Hau has made the first ascent of one of the hardest routes in the Canadian Rockies. After averaging around 80 days a season at Acephale the past couple of years, Hau wanted a change of scenery and turned his attention to some of the old projects at Planet X
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First Flight: Canada’s newest 5.14c

Josh Muller has made the first ascent of a 2013 project bolted by Calgary’s Lev Pinter. Muller is one of Canada’s strongest climbers, having sent Bunda de Fora 5.14d and a number of V14s. His home crag is Acephale, so it is no surprise that he would send one of the
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Barry Blanchard’s The Calling is now available!

One of the most anticipated books of 2014, Barry Blanchard’s new book The Calling, is now available. Blanchard is not only one of Canada’s most accomplished climbers, he is also one of the most colourfull characters in the sport. In Canada, his first ascents include
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New Big Route in the Bugaboos

Tony McLane and Nathan MacDonald have climbed a new moderate on the North Howser Towers in Canada’s Bugaboos. On July 28, the pair climbed up the Shooting Gallery and crossed the Seventh Rifle to gain new ground. The route follows a large prow between The Real Mexcalito and
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K2 Success!

A record number of climbers stood on K2 on July 26. Despite the near-perfect conditions, one climber has died at Camp Four. K2 is located on the border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang,
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Harnden rides The Bull: second ascent of bold route

Squamish’s Ben Harnden has made the second ascent of Jeremy Smith’s The Bull 5.14R. Smith established Murrin Park’s The Bull in 2013, it became one of the area’s boldest leads. Watch a video of Smith nearing the top of the route, while trying to make the
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Second Ascent of Bone Thief Extension by MacCallum

Calgary-based Bonar MacCallum made the second ascent of one of the Rockies burlier 5.14s on July 25, 2014. MacCallum sent Bone Thief Extension which is a longer, more technical add-on of the route Bone Thief in Echo Canyon above Canmore. It is the only 5.14 at the Lookout and
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K2: teams combine efforts for summit push 60 years after first ascent

A number of climbing parties on the Abruzzi Spur have teamed up and are making a collective effort for a summit push on July 26. K2 is located on the border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of
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Florine Sets Yosemite Record

Hans Florine has made the first one-day solo ascent of Triple Direct on El Capitan. Fifty-year-old Florine climbed the route in temperatures over 40 degrees Celsius. He started climbing just before 6 a.m. and rope-soloed each pitch except for the easy terrain. He reached the top
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