Gripped Magazine

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Big Push On The Dawn Wall

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have started their final attempt of the year to free The Dawn Wall. Caldwell and Jorgeson started up on Dec. 27 for perhaps their last time. If all goes well, the next time they stand on solid ground will be on top of El Capitan. On the first
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Regan Kennedy Climbs V10

Calgary’s Regan Kennedy took down her second V10, Scare Tactics in Red Rocks. “This problem packs a punch. It’s hard AND painful!” Josh Muller said about the route.   Kennedy and Muller in South Africa Scare Tactics starts with the crux. A giant move off
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New Route on Canon Cliff

Matt Ritter is a New England ice climber who owns Walkabout Mountain Guides.  On Monday, Dec. 22, Ritter climbed the new Cannonade Direct on Canon Cliff with Jim Shimberg. “It only took me six attempts over the last few years,” Ritter wrote on his Facebook. The
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Ashima Climbs Bishop V12

Ashima Shiraishi is the 13-year-old boulderer who became the second female to climb V14. She is spending her holidays in Bishop. “Sent this beauty quickly today!” Shiraishi wrote on her Instagram. Watch Shiraishi on Ted Talks here. She is one of the strongest young
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Kilian Jornet Sets New Aconcagua Speed Record

Spanish runner Kilian Jornet has climbed his way to a new speed record on Aconcagua. He made a round-trip of the technically easy peak in 12 hours and 49 minutes. On Dec. 23, Jornet set the record on the highest peak outside of Asia at 6,9,62 metres in less than 13 hours, a trip
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Slawinski and Olson Repeat Nophobia

Nophobia was established over four years by Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, John Freeman, and Will Gadd. The 150-metre route in the Ghost River Valley climbs the wall left of the classic Hydrophobia WI5. Nophobia was established over four years before redpoints by Gadd, Mayo and Freeman.
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Patagonia News

The 2014/15 Patagonia season has been a busy one. There’s been a number of ascents, tragedies and with some of the world’s leading alpinists ready to strike, there is more to come. The first ascent of Cerro Torre this season was in September by an Italian team. At
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Patagonia Accident, Fatality and Risk Management

The 2014/15 season is off to a busy and fatal start. With the increased popularity of climbing in Patagonia, changes to the system might be imperative. Kastining Diltman fell into a crevasse on the north side of Fitz Roy while descending below the Supercanaleta. He was NOT roped
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Fred Beckey Recieves Gold

Fred Beckey is considered by many to be the most accomplished climbers of all time. In 1961, Beckey played a large role in setting the stage for hard alpine routes in Canada with the Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos and the first route up the North Face
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Kilian Fischhuber Retires From Competitive Climbing

The 31-year-old Austrian climber Kilian Fischhuber is retiring from competitive climbing. He has been competing since 1997 and is one of the best competition boulderers ever.  The always dominate Fischhuber won his first World Cup in 2004, is nine-time Austrian champ, has won 21
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