Gripped Magazine

Rock

Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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Honnold’s Squamish record you didn’t know about

Alex Honnold is one of the most well-known names in climbing. In 2014, he set a new speed record for Squamish’s Grand Wall. Not only has Honnold has climbed Sonnie Trotter’s testpiece, Cobra Crack 5.14, linked Free Grand 5.13b, Northern Lights 5.12a, Freeway 5.11 and
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Leclerc and Lavigne Climb Wild Thing

Squamish-based Marc-Andre Leclerc and Rockies-based Joshua Lavigne make a rare ascent of Wild Thing VI WI4 M7 1,500 metres on Mount Chephren. Leclerc has been visiting the Rockies for most of November. He climbed a new route with Jon Walsh, The Plum WI6 M7 120 m, soloed Sacre
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UPDATE: Tommy Caldwell Sends Dawn Wall Crux!

After six years of working on the crux-pitch of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall, Tommy Caldwell has sent it. Hello. As Caldwell wrote on his Facebook, “Oh my goodness!!! After six years, I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven’s fight-to-the-death near
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Watch Sonnie Trotter on Family Man 5.14

This is a short clip documenting Sonnie Trotter’s first ascent of Family Man, 5.14 in Skaha. As Trotter said, “For me, this climb was as much about getting outside with my family, as it was about trying hard. So, Thanks to everyone who helped make this ascent come to
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Pee Wee Sends Hard Desert Crack

Jean-Pierre (Pee Wee) Ouellet has sent his multi-week project in Indian Creek. He has climbed a number of text-piece cracks this fall. Since arriving in Moab over a month ago, Ouellet has climbed a half-dozen 5.13s, including two first ascents, one being Zebras and Moonbeams, and
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A look back at the 2014 Banff Mountain Film Festival

Another Banff International Film and Book Festival has come and gone. There were some heart-felt films, adrenaline rush clips and lots of memorable moments during the #NineEpicDays. By Brandon Pullan The nine-day event, which takes place in the heart of the Rockies at the Banff
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Sonnie Trotter attempts to free the North America Wall

The history of big wall free climbing can be witnessed on the walls of Yosemite. Canadian Sonnie Trotter recently tried to add to that history by making the first free ascent of the original North America Wall. The North America Wall was first climbed by Yvon Couinard, Tom Frost,
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Will Stanhope Frees El Cap in a Day

It seems to be big wall season in Yosemite. Despite the short days, a number climbers are heading up El Cap and Half Dome for warm November rock climbing. Will Stanhope and Jesse Huey had been attempting to link El Cap and Half Dome, all free in a day. Early in the morning, they
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Fourth Free Ascent of The Nose!!!

Jorg Verhoeven has made the fourth free ascent of The Nose. After three days, he sent the iconic route after sending the Great Roof on his first burn of the attempt. Verhoeven wrote on his Facebook, “Yeeeaaaaah! I freeclimbed the Nose!!! In three days, I managed to grab the
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