Gripped Magazine

Rock

New Bold Austrian Mixed Route: Optimist

Michael Wohlleben and Joachim Feger have climbed the Optimist, a new 1,300-metre M6 up the West Face of Schneefernerkopf in the Wetterstein range in Austria. Optimist- First ascent in the Wetterstein mountains By Michael Wohlleben I had this line for a long time in my eyes. We
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Squamish’s Original Guidebook Now Online

The first climbing guide to Squamish was published in 1967. The University of British Columbia’s Varsity Outdoor Club (VOC) has recently digitized it for everyone to enjoy. Artem Babaian is the secretary of the VOC. He was recently involved in a project to digitize the
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Marc-Andre Leclerc and His Epic Patagonia Solo

Canadian Marc-Andre Leclerc has made one of the most wild solos ever in Patagonia. During his multi-month trip, he’s turned from a Patagonia rookie to a veteran of the South American destination. Leclerc has made the seventh solo ascent of Cerro Torre and the first solo of
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Ines Papert Repeats Hard Scottish Route

Ines Papert is perhaps the world’s best known German ice climber. She recently made the first female ascent of a very hard route in Scotland called The Hurting. Papert was in Scotland to speak at the Fort William Mountain Festival. Fresh off a repeat of Ritter der Kokonuss,
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Sachi Amma Concludes Milestone Trip

The Japanese climber Sachi Amma has left Spain after a few weeks of sending some of the areas hardest routes. By Eddie Gianelloni As many already know, Amma sent his hardest route, Fight or Flight 5.15b earlier this month. What many do not know is what this meant to him. Over the
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Nicolas Favresse Sends India’s Hardest Sport Route on Natural Gear

Nicolas Favresse has sent India’s hardest sport route Ganesh 5.14a using only natural protection.   Ganesh Report by Favresse The Belgian sender Nicolas Favresse sent the route last week at Badami in India. He placed his own gear on lead and said it was one of the best trad
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YoungHye Kwon Climbs the World’s Hardest Mixed Routes

Korean mixed climber, YoungHye Kwon, recently traveled the world to climb the hardest mixed routes in one season. The routes he sent were Steel Koan M13+ in Cineplex Cave of Canadian Rockies, Mustang M14 in East Vail, U.S., IronMan M14+ in Eptingen, Switzerland, which is the
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Watch as Adam Ondra Attempts to Flash Dreamcatcher 5.14d

On Mon., Feb. 16, Adam Ondra attempted to become the first climber to flash Squamish’s Dreamcatcher 5.14d. Adam Ondra made his first visit to Canada for the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival in February 2015. On his first climbing day, he sent Silent Menace
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Sachi Amma Continues Sending Spree

Sachi Amma has quickly joined the ranks of Adam Ondra and Alex Megos with his recent sends. This week, 8a.nu reported that Amma sent Catxasa 5.15a after three tries on his current trip and one trip last year. Amma Climbs Force Extension Amma Climbs 5.15b Amma Realizes 5.15a Dani
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New Rockies Ice Climb: Lake O’Hara’s Happy and Ugly World

The Lake O’Hara mountains have a number of summer alpine routes and winter ski descents. A handful of waterfall ice climbs have been done, but because of bad avalanche conditions, few ascents go done every winter. Report by Maarten van Haeren After an excellent hint from
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