Gripped Magazine

Rock

New Difficult Big Wall Route in Madagascar

Hamid Reza Shafaghi, Hassan Gerami and Farshad Mijoji climbed some big wall classics to prepare for their new Madagascar route on the Tsaranoro massif. The three Iranian climbers established the 440-metre 5.13d A2 to the top of the Karambony Tower in Madagascar in April after six
Read More

Week-Long Trip to Quadra Island with #defineFeminine

Arc’teryx’s #defineFeminine contest had over 1,200 nominations and after some careful consideration, they chose four women for a trip to Quadra Island. Quadra Island offers excellent rock climbing in one of the most scenic settings in Canada: snow-capped mountains,
Read More

Squamish’s La Coalition 5.11 is Good to Go

Squamish’s Adam Hart established La Coalition a number of years ago and wants people to go climb it. “I established a new six pitch 5.11+ in the South Gully on The Cheif just up from the Opal Wall called La Coalition with Damien Cote in 2008,” said Hart.
Read More

Canadians Jailed for Kinabalu Quake and Thoughts on Sacredness

Malaysian officials claim the actions of four foreign travellers disrespected Mount Kinabalu and caused a magnitude 5.9 earthquake last Friday that killed at least 18 people. Sabah’s tourism minister, Masidi Manjun, confirmed that the four foreigners – the two Canadians, a Dutch
Read More

Watch Jean-Pierre Ouellet on His Hypothenuse, 5.13+

The Quebec crack-master sends an old project on his home turf
Read More

Ben Moon Makes Fourth Ascent of Difficult Rainshadow

British climber, Ben Moon, made the fourth ascent of Rainshadow 5.14d at Malhom Cove on Mon. June 8. Moon, who is 48 and has his 49th birthday on June 13, sent the difficult route 25 years after his first 5.14d. Just climbed my 2nd 9a 25 years after my 1st. Rainshadow 4th ascent.
Read More

Two New Routes on Ha Ling Peak in Rockies

Ha Ling Peak has a number of worthwhile routes ranging from the classic Northeast Face 5.6 to the newer route, A Particular Manner of Expression 5.12. In June, 2015, Jay Mills climbed two new routes. The routes are left of the Northeast Face route and they both share around 140
Read More

Adam Ondra’s Historic V14 Flash

Adam Ondra spent his post-World Cup recovery time climbing hard bouldering problems in Rocky Mountain National Park and flashed two difficult routes. Ondra made one of the hardest flashes in the history books with his send of Jade V14. He also flashed Don’t Get Greedy V13.
Read More

Earthquake Kills Mountain Guide and Destroys Iconic Kinabalu Peak

A deadly 6.0-magnitude quake occurred in the Malaysian state of Sabah on Borneo island about 55 kilometres from the the summit of Mount Kinabalu 4,095 metres. The quake happened on Friday at 7:15 a.m. local and caused rockslides that killed 19 people including mountain guides and
Read More

Emily Harrington Sends Yosemite’s Golden Gate

American climber, Emily Harrington, has succeeded in sending her big wall project of 2015 with her send of Golden Gate 5.13. It took Harrington six days to send the 41-pitch El Cap route, which she led every pitch on. The first ascent of Golden Gate was in 2000 by Alex and Thomas
Read More

Gripped Subscription