Gripped Magazine

Rock

Evan Hau Sends Hard New Rockies Route

The Canadian Rockies have thousands of sport routes, but with so much untouched rock it’s easy to find new and esthetic routes close to home. Calgary-based crusher Evan Hau recently found a new wall to develop and called it the Apocalypse Cave. The first route Hau developed
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Watch the 2015 Arc’teryx Squamish Climbing Academy Video

Three days of international speakers, educational seminars and clinics on topics related to climbing. This year’s festival features clinics and workshops in the Squamish Valley as well as the Sea To Sky Gondola. Read Drew Copeland’s article on the sold-out West Coast
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Nina Williams Climbs Her First V13

Nina Williams is one of the world’s strongest female boulderers and she recently had two major accomplishments in South Africa. Having spent the better part of the summer at Rocklands in South Africa, Williams has sent a number of hard problems, the most difficult was Ray
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Another Huge Half Dome Rockfall

Taylor Sincich witnessed and reported a rockfall on Yosemite’s Half Dome on July 15. On July 2 or 3, a large rockfall occurred on the Northwest Face of Half Dome a.k.a the Regular Route, which removed large sections of pitch 12. Watch a video from Andrew Broadhead about the
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Jesse Huey Repeats Edge of Pan 5.13 in Squamish

American sender Jesse Huey has made the second free ascent of the difficult The Edge of Pan. The Edge of Pan is on the Pan Wall on The Chief in Squamish and was first freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2011. The route has one of the most esthetic corner pitches on the West Coast. The
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Steve McClure’s Second Ascent of U.K. Hard Route

British strong-man Steve McClure has made the second ascent of Neil Mawson’s recent E10. On the Sept. 21, 2014, Mawson sent his long-term project called Choronzon at Stack Rocks in Pembroke. With a grade of E10 8b+, the climb became the region’s hardest route. Mawson
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The 2015 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy in Squamish

The Arc’teryx Climbing Academy took place in Squamish this past weekend with sold-out events and clinics at a number of outdoor and indoor venues. by Drew Copeland It isn’t often that menacing rain saves a climbing event in Squamish, but that’s how the
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The New Must-Have Online Lion’s Head Guidebook

Greg Williamson recently uploaded his new guidebook to Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Williamson, 42, is one of Lion’s Head’s most prolific climbers and has established over 20 new routes from 5.9 trad climbs to 5.13b sport routes. Lion’s Head’s steep
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New 5.15 in France by Seb Bouin

French Climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of one of France’s hardest route. The new 5.15a is at Pic Saint-Loup in Montpellier is a variation to Staphylocoque 5.14d/5.15a. Bouin’s route is called Kmira and took the 22-year-old only two weeks of projecting. In
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Climbers Face the Flames and Extinguish Squamish Fire

On June 26, James Hillier, Jessie LaFleure, Andre Muller, Ava Gardner, Mike Shives, and mystery man Tucker, rappelled into a fire in Squamish and extinguished it. The June 26 blaze was one of many that’s been popping up around the world-class climbing destination, which has
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