Gripped Magazine

Rock

Petzl Roc Trip Stage One: Romania

The 2014 Petzl Rock Trip across Eastern Europe started last week. Stage one took place in Romania at Baile Herculane. Baile Herculane has been reputed for its hot springs since ancient Roman times, as is pointed out on the Petzl website. Hercules’ town has the most
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Italy’s Project Fear, new route in the Dolomites

Elite Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has established a major variation on the Dolomites’ Tre Cime di Lavaredo. As Dave MacLeod reports on his blog, he and Alan Cassidy MacLeod climbed the new route which combines a old with new ground. The initial 90 metres climbs a section
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Puccio climbs Wheel of Chaos V14

Alex Puccio has climbed the 25-move Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. It only took Puccio two days to send her second V14. The Wheel of Chaos was first climbed by Daniel Woods in 2013 as a variation to Wheel of Life in the Upper Chaos Canyon. In August, Puccio
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New Mount Louis line up stunning corner

Mount Louis seems to have endless potential for those seeking a new route. Homage to the Spider climbs the most attractive corner on the northeast wall, but many corners remain. Raphael Slawinski and Steve Holeczi have finished a project started in the early summer. Their route
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New Ontario 5.13s, courtesy of Mark Smith

Mark Smith was busy this summer establishing new test-pieces at Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Greg Williamson is one of the most knowledgeable climbers in the area. He recently told Gripped, “Yes, it was a pretty good summer for new development. Smith sent an old
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The Shadow gets a second female free ascent

Brette Harrington has become the second woman to climb the impressive Shadow pitch on The Chief. In 2012, Senja Palonen became the first woman to climb The Shadow. Palonen wrote on Sendage, “One of the most beautiful and iconic routes in Squamish, so fun.” Harrington
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Ondra is Lead World Champ

Canadian Sean McColl finished in sixth-place at the lead climbing World Championships. Adam Ondra took his second title of year. Less than a month after Adam Ondra became the world champion for bouldering, he stood on another podium in front of a full arena as the lead world
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Mayo Sends Summer Dry-Tool Line

Will Mayo has pieced together the long reaches of this new dry-tool problem in the Ghetto via headlamp. The Existensionalist looks like a like a great way to train for the upcoming mixed/ice season. The route climbs 30 metres along a roof in an abandoned mine near Colorado
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New Rockies Routes by Jay Mills and Friends

The Rockies have had over two feet of snow fall on them this week. Before the cold weather started, Jay Mills and friends climbed a number of new long moderates in and around Banff. Mills first climbed a new route on Mount Cory. The line takes easy ground up an easy rib between
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The Barbarian: Squamish’s newest hard big route

Luke Neufeld has made the first ascent of one of a route which will become one of Squamish’s test pieces. The Barbarian 5.13b/c climbs the aesthetic prow on Barbarian Wall left of the Slhanny. By Luke Neufeld This fall I finally managed to send a long-term project of mine.
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