Gripped Magazine

Rock

Bold New Rockies Mixed Route

From the team who brought winter climbers the route Man Yoga, comes their latest addition to bold winter mixed climbing: Kahveology. Jon Walsh and Jonny Simms are no strangers to pushing it on frozen walls. Their most recent outing found them climbing the new Kahveology (the
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New Patagonia Traverse by Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc

In 2008, Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti traversed the Torres via Travesía del Torre, a 1,900-metre 5.10 C1, that climbed north to south. Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc have now traversed the Torres from south to north. On Jan. 16, Gripped touched base with Haley to see how the
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The Triple-Header, New Speed Record and Words With Hannah Block

On January 11, 2015, over 115 of the top sport climbers from British Columbia gathered at the Sport Climbing Association of British Columbia (SCBC) Triple-Header at the Boulders Climbing Gym in Central Saanich. There were many highlights from the Bouldering and Difficulty
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Operation Hooker: Wyoming’s Hard Big Wall On Video

In 2013 Nik Berry, Dave Allfrey and Mason Earle hiked into the Wind River Range in Wyoming to explore the free-climbing potential of the area’s remote alpine faces. Epic TV brings us their story in three parts. Read more about big wall free climbing in 2013 here. Epict TV
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Tommy Caldwell and Pitch 15

On January 14, 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson made the first free ascent of The Dawn Wall on Yosemite’s El Capitan. Watch Tommy climb pitch 15 at the grade of 5.14c in this first footage released by the film crew on the wall. Dawn Wall News
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North America’s 50 Classic Climbs: Fine Jade

Epic TV will be doing a series on North America’s 50 Classic Climbs as found in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s book, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The book was published in 1979. No one has climbed all 50 routes. Canadian Nancy Hansen has climbed the most with
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Dawn Wall Through the Eyes of Tom Evans

Tom Evans is the man behind the El Cap Report. During Yosemite’s peak season, his daily reports are the go-to resource for anyone wanting to know who is climbing what on El Cap. In late December, he started his “special” off-season reports to cover the Dawn
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New 11-Pitch Red Rocks Route: Bromancing the Stone

Red Rocks is a popular destination in January because the south facing sandstone walls are warm enough to climb. Chris Weidner and Jon Glassberg climbed a new 400-metre 5.10d on Jan. 8, and called it Bromancing the Stone. Bromancing the Stone This route is on the east face of the
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Dawn Wall, Bigger Than Ever

In the days after the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, nearly every news outlet has covered the story in one way or another. After the 1970 first ascent of Dawn Wall by Warren Harding and Dean Campbell, few outside of the climbing crowd
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The 50th Anniversary of Fitz Roy’s Supercanaleta

On Jan. 15, 1965, Carlos Comesana and Jose Luis Fonrouge made the first ascent of the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy. Comesana and Fonrouge’s ascent was the second of Fitz Roy, after the first ascent in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone. Supercanaleta Topo
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