Gripped Magazine

Rock

Ines Papert Repeats Hard Scottish Route

Ines Papert is perhaps the world’s best known German ice climber. She recently made the first female ascent of a very hard route in Scotland called The Hurting. Papert was in Scotland to speak at the Fort William Mountain Festival. Fresh off a repeat of Ritter der Kokonuss,
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Sachi Amma Concludes Milestone Trip

The Japanese climber Sachi Amma has left Spain after a few weeks of sending some of the areas hardest routes. By Eddie Gianelloni As many already know, Amma sent his hardest route, Fight or Flight 5.15b earlier this month. What many do not know is what this meant to him. Over the
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Nicolas Favresse Sends India’s Hardest Sport Route on Natural Gear

Nicolas Favresse has sent India’s hardest sport route Ganesh 5.14a using only natural protection.   Ganesh Report by Favresse The Belgian sender Nicolas Favresse sent the route last week at Badami in India. He placed his own gear on lead and said it was one of the best trad
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YoungHye Kwon Climbs the World’s Hardest Mixed Routes

Korean mixed climber, YoungHye Kwon, recently traveled the world to climb the hardest mixed routes in one season. The routes he sent were Steel Koan M13+ in Cineplex Cave of Canadian Rockies, Mustang M14 in East Vail, U.S., IronMan M14+ in Eptingen, Switzerland, which is the
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Watch as Adam Ondra Attempts to Flash Dreamcatcher 5.14d

On Mon., Feb. 16, Adam Ondra attempted to become the first climber to flash Squamish’s Dreamcatcher 5.14d. Adam Ondra made his first visit to Canada for the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival in February 2015. On his first climbing day, he sent Silent Menace
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Sachi Amma Continues Sending Spree

Sachi Amma has quickly joined the ranks of Adam Ondra and Alex Megos with his recent sends. This week, 8a.nu reported that Amma sent Catxasa 5.15a after three tries on his current trip and one trip last year. Amma Climbs Force Extension Amma Climbs 5.15b Amma Realizes 5.15a Dani
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New Rockies Ice Climb: Lake O’Hara’s Happy and Ugly World

The Lake O’Hara mountains have a number of summer alpine routes and winter ski descents. A handful of waterfall ice climbs have been done, but because of bad avalanche conditions, few ascents go done every winter. Report by Maarten van Haeren After an excellent hint from
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Nalle and Jimmy Discover Boulders in Swaziland

Two of the world’s strongest climbers, Nalle Hukkataival and Jimmy Webb, traveled to Swaziland in search of new boulders. The trip was unforgettable. Finding boulder problems isn’t as easy as it sounds – you might end up walking hours in the fields and forest
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Leclerc and Haley Climb New Cerro Torre North Face Route

Marc-Andre Leclerc is quickly becoming one of Canada’s top alpinists. He’s been spending his 2014/15 winter in Patagonia. Colin Haley has long been one of the world’s best alpine climbers. They have established a new route on Cerro Torre’s north face.
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Canadian Nancy Hansen Attempting Everest From Tibet

Nancy Hansen will be heading to the north side of Mount Everest to attempt the Norton Couloir in the spring of 2015. Hansen will be teaming up with German alpinist Ralf Dujmovits for the attempt. They will be climbing without supplemental oxygen. Only five women have climbed
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