Gripped Magazine

Rock

Psicobloc Was An Electrical Climbing Experience

One of the wildest storms of the year to hit the Salt Lake City area forced an early wrap-up of the 2015 Psicobloc Masters Series. Psicobloc was as “psycho” as it could have been, as a massive storm system brought high winds, heavy rains and lightning the Utah’s
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Jordana Agapito is First Brazilian Woman to Send V12

Jordana Agapito has only been climbing a few years, but last week she became the first Brazilian woman to climb V12. Agapito sent Kalunga V12 in Cocalzinho de Goiás, Brazil. Jordana Agapito vs Kalunga – first v12/8a+ in brazil from Victor Rodrigues on Vimeo.
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Anna Smith and Michelle Kadatz Send on Baffin Island

Anna Smith and Michelle Kadatz have returned from a multi-week adventure on Baffin Island. The Canadian women spent a few weeks exploring the the remote arctic island during July. With stable weather and some warm temperatures, they managed to send two world-class routes. On
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Watch Megos Flash Hard Frankenjura Routes

Alex Megos is right at home on the hard-to-read Frankenjura rock. Watch him make quick work of a 5.14a, which he scouted on rappel, and a 5.14b, which he sent first try.  
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Climbing Fitness #1: Avoid the Dreaded Hunchback

This is the first installment of a new series on how to stretch and strengthen those climbing muscles. It is brought to you by Ashley Edwards and Kate Evans, co-founders of City Yogis in Toronto. There are a number of reasons climbers might end up with rounded upper back, hunched
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Bold Solo And A New Route Big Wall Route In China

He Chuan has completed a new big wall on a famous mountain in China. It took Chuan eight days, four more than planned, to climb the 20 pitches up the 700-metre South Peak of Mount Huashan in western China, which he named Climb Like You Are Dying 5.10R A3. The route is
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Will Mayo Repeats Legendary Vedauwoo Crack

Will Mayo is known for his difficult winter sends, but he is no stranger to the stone. Yasha Hai is a finger-sized roof crack that was among the first rock climbs in the world to be rated 5.13a (circa 1979). The first ascent was recorded as having been done by an anonymous
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Jam Rock, Chris Sharma’s Quebec Route

Watch Yanick Duguay climb Welcome to Jam Rock, one of Quebec’s hardest route. Welcome to Jam Rock was considered Quebec’s most difficult route until Chris Sharma came along and sent it. In 2010, Duguay repeated the steep route that climbs a crimpy 5.11 face to V11
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New Pitch on Half Dome’s Damaged Northwest Face

Less than one month after a major rock-fall left a classic American route damaged, climbers have established a new pitch. The rock-fall that sent some of pitches 11 and 12 from Half Dome’s Northwest Face crashing to the valley below left many wondering if the route was too
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Paraclimbing Team Summits Eiger

A team of three British paraclimbers have accomplished their 2015 goal of climbing the Eiger. John Churcher, Alex Taylor and Jay Owen have successfully climbed the West Flank Route, assisted by Mark McGowan and Colin Gourley. Their mission was to raise awareness of paraclimbing
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