Gripped Magazine

Rock

First Flight: Canada’s newest 5.14c

Josh Muller has made the first ascent of a 2013 project bolted by Calgary’s Lev Pinter. Muller is one of Canada’s strongest climbers, having sent Bunda de Fora 5.14d and a number of V14s. His home crag is Acephale, so it is no surprise that he would send one of the
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Barry Blanchard’s The Calling is now available!

One of the most anticipated books of 2014, Barry Blanchard’s new book The Calling, is now available. Blanchard is not only one of Canada’s most accomplished climbers, he is also one of the most colourfull characters in the sport. In Canada, his first ascents include
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New Big Route in the Bugaboos

Tony McLane and Nathan MacDonald have climbed a new moderate on the North Howser Towers in Canada’s Bugaboos. On July 28, the pair climbed up the Shooting Gallery and crossed the Seventh Rifle to gain new ground. The route follows a large prow between The Real Mexcalito and
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Harnden rides The Bull: second ascent of bold route

Squamish’s Ben Harnden has made the second ascent of Jeremy Smith’s The Bull 5.14R. Smith established Murrin Park’s The Bull in 2013, it became one of the area’s boldest leads. Watch a video of Smith nearing the top of the route, while trying to make the
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Second Ascent of Bone Thief Extension by MacCallum

Calgary-based Bonar MacCallum made the second ascent of one of the Rockies burlier 5.14s on July 25, 2014. MacCallum sent Bone Thief Extension which is a longer, more technical add-on of the route Bone Thief in Echo Canyon above Canmore. It is the only 5.14 at the Lookout and
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K2: teams combine efforts for summit push 60 years after first ascent

A number of climbing parties on the Abruzzi Spur have teamed up and are making a collective effort for a summit push on July 26. K2 is located on the border between Baltistan, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of northern Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of
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Florine Sets Yosemite Record

Hans Florine has made the first one-day solo ascent of Triple Direct on El Capitan. Fifty-year-old Florine climbed the route in temperatures over 40 degrees Celsius. He started climbing just before 6 a.m. and rope-soloed each pitch except for the easy terrain. He reached the top
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Flashback to Rockies Golden Era and Trotter’s New Route

The Rockies are full of old projects, routes that were too technically difficult to free at the time. Urs Kallen told Sonnie Trotter about one such project. By Sonnie Trotter In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time,
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Squamish Mountain Festival: It’s about the journey

The Squamish Mountain Festival, presented by Arc’teryx, is taking place on Canada’s West Coast this weekend. Lauren Watson has been covering the event for Gripped and she reports that the event is a combination of inspirational talks mixed with hilarious
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New Rockies Route: Miner’s Waltz in C (hoss) Sharp (with a) Minor

Ian Welsted and Sam Eastman have established the first route up the north face of Lawrence Grassi Peak above Canmore. It is hard to believe that this big face has never seen an ascent. Climbers have tried it in winter, but with no luck. Welsted and Eastman climbed the back of Ha
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