Gripped Magazine

Rock

Brette Harrington Makes Third Free Ascent of Edge of Pan!

Squamish-based crusher Brette Harrington has made the third ascent and first female ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief. The Edge of Pan was first free-climbed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. One week ago, Harrington and American climber Jesse Huey rappelled in for
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Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel Repeat Old Swiss Route

Swiss climber Nina Caprez and French climber Marc le Menestrel have climbed Hannibals Alptraum in the Ratikon Mountains of Switzerland. The difficult route was first climbed in 1986 by Martin Scheel and Robert Bosch and ascends to the right of the popular hard route called
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Vikki Weldon Sends Hard Squamish Crack

Vikki Weldon has climbed her hardest gear climb to date with her send of Adder Crack. On Fri. July 17, Vikki pieced together the difficult moves of one of Squamish’s 5.13a cracks called Adder Crack, and joined a small group of Canadian women who have sent a 5.13 gear climb.
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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Ontario’s New Big Thunder Wall Has A Multi-Pitch 5.12

The Big Thunder Wall is a 75-metre basalt cliff in Thunder Bay, Ontario, and has yielded a number of difficult long routes. In the early 2000s, Jeff Hammerich and Dave Benton climbed a dozen new routes at an area known as Lost Falls. A number of sport routes and other long
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Evan Hau Sends Hard New Rockies Route

The Canadian Rockies have thousands of sport routes, but with so much untouched rock it’s easy to find new and esthetic routes close to home. Calgary-based crusher Evan Hau recently found a new wall to develop and called it the Apocalypse Cave. The first route Hau developed
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Watch the 2015 Arc’teryx Squamish Climbing Academy Video

Three days of international speakers, educational seminars and clinics on topics related to climbing. This year’s festival features clinics and workshops in the Squamish Valley as well as the Sea To Sky Gondola. Read Drew Copeland’s article on the sold-out West Coast
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Nina Williams Climbs Her First V13

Nina Williams is one of the world’s strongest female boulderers and she recently had two major accomplishments in South Africa. Having spent the better part of the summer at Rocklands in South Africa, Williams has sent a number of hard problems, the most difficult was Ray
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Another Huge Half Dome Rockfall

Taylor Sincich witnessed and reported a rockfall on Yosemite’s Half Dome on July 15. On July 2 or 3, a large rockfall occurred on the Northwest Face of Half Dome a.k.a the Regular Route, which removed large sections of pitch 12. Watch a video from Andrew Broadhead about the
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Jesse Huey Repeats Edge of Pan 5.13 in Squamish

American sender Jesse Huey has made the second free ascent of the difficult The Edge of Pan. The Edge of Pan is on the Pan Wall on The Chief in Squamish and was first freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2011. The route has one of the most esthetic corner pitches on the West Coast. The
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