Gripped Magazine

Rock

New Route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson

Americans Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper climbed a new route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson from May 1 to 4.  Based on the Ruth Glacier, the pair climbed the Stairway to Heaven VI, A1, M6, WI4, AI5+X with support from the Mugs Stump Award. Jennings wrote on his socia
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New Route on Huntington by Mayo and Wharton

Mount Huntington has long been one of the most sought-after alpine peaks in Alaska. Canadians Nick Buda and Bryce Brown recently climbed The Harvard Route and reported great conditions. Will Mayo posted this on social media on May 12: “Josh Wharton and I climbed a new route
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Adam Ondra. Crushing.

Adam Ondra is arguably the best sport climber in the world and now he has the numbers to back it up. The much-loved 8a.nu, which recently passed three-million documented ascents, reported that Ondra has climbed 96 routes graded 5.14d or harder, more than anyone else who uses the
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Heerema Sends two Canadian V12s

The Phoenix is one of the Niagara Glen’s harder problems. Ontario climber David Heerema sent it, and a V12 in Quebec, during a week-long road trip this spring. Heerema, who is one of Canada’s strongest boulderers, wrote this about the climb “The Phoenix was a
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Squamish’s new Golden Nugget

The Golden Nugget is one of dozens of new crags that have been developed around Squamish the last few seasons. The Golden Nugget is hidden in the trees across the highway from Nightmare Rock in Murrin Park and right above the cliff hosting the ice climb Nintendo 64. New
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The 2014 Chamonix Mountain Festival

The second annual Chamonix Mountain Festival runs from June 29 to July 6, 2014.   The Chamonix Mountain Festival is a gathering for like-minded climbers: • Friendly atmosphere – organised by mountaineers for mountaineers • No age limit, no grade limit • One great all
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Rock Divas, Climbing School for Girls

Rock Divas in Canning, N.S., is the first all girls climbing school on the east coast. The Annapolis Valley gym in the Canning Rec. Centre says, “It teaches girls physical and mental strength.” Erin Gullison, 14, said, “At first it didn’t seem like a good
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Drones Banned in Yosemite

The National Parks Service (NPS) which governs Yosemite has banned the use of drones as a result of the recent increase of their use for photography. In a statement, the NPS notes that there has been a recent increase in the use of drones to capture aerial footage and rock
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Big Wall Speed Climbing Comp, New Record

Croatia’s Paklenica 15th big wall speed comp took place Mar 3.  Brothers Jurica and his brother Perica Levatić won the event. When you think about speed climbing, you likely don’t think about Croatia. For 15 years, climbers have been gathering in Paklenica’s
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Adam Ondra Onsights 5.14d (again)

Adam Ondra, arguably the world’s best climber, has onsighted his second 5.14d, his first was La Cabane au Canada in Rawyl last year. UK Climbing reported Ondra onsighted Il Domani 5.14d, in the Baltzola cave, Basque country. Patxi Usobiaga watched Ondra make the ascent and
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