Gripped Magazine

Rock

David Chaundy-Smart Rouses the Calgary Mountain Club

Gripped’s editorial director read excerpts from his book, A Youth Wasted Climbing, to a full house on Wed. May 27 at the Ironwood pub in Calgary. Chaundy-Smart is no stranger to Calgary. The Toronto-based writer spent some time in the Rockies during his climbing forays
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Quebec’s Difficult New Spring Mixed Route: The Last Ronin

Quebec climbers climb a new route in memory of their friend and accomplished climber, Yannick Girard. By Louis Rousseau The day was perfect, except for the March date: Friday the 13th. We stopped for coffee and cakes in Baie, St. Paul at the bakery. We decided to finish our
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Sebastian Bouin Makes Third Ascent of Famous 5.15b

French climber Seb Bouin has made the third ascent of Chilam Balam 5.15b at Villanueva del Rosario in the Andalusia region of Spain. It’s Bouin’s first 5.15b and the route’s third ascent after Bernabé Fernández in 2003 and Adam Ondra in 2011. The route was
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Evan Hau Sends Another New 5.14 in Rockies

Evan Hau is a Calgary-based climber who is among the top sport climbers in the country. He is spending his summer finding and sending some of the Bow Valley’s last hard projects.  While on his journey to find Canada’s first 5.15a, Hau’s been busy putting down
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Jacob Cook: British Undercover Crusher Sending in America

British climber Jason Cook and his partner Bronwyn Hodgins have relocated to America for the time being to free some Yosemite and Zion classics. The pair recently climbed Moonlight Buttress 5.12d in Zion National Park, but failed to free all of the pitches. They returned with a
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First Ascent of an Albertan V10 by Matt Lucas

Matt Lucas is no stranger to hard bouldering problems and he recently opened a new crag in Kananaskis Country with fellow Calgary climbers. Their new crag is dubbed Crows Nest and is located across from Nakiska Ski Resort in Kananaskis Country, AB. Joined by Marc Eveleigh and
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Quebec’s New Wall is Big and Splitter

Quebec has some of the best rock climbing in Canada and while many think the potential has been tapped out, a new wall on Lac du Cap proves otherwise. Serge Alexandre Demers Giroux and friends explored a new wall, similar in appearance to Ontario’s Bon Echo, on May 16. The
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Epic Climber Series: Watch Tommy Caldwell Climb an Ice-Covered Crack

EpicTV’s Epic Climber series is about to wrap up and for the final climb, they push some of our favourite climbing stars to the limit. The conditions might have seemed perfect as the four climbers arrive at the summit of Chamonix’s Aiguille du Midi, but on the rock,
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Squamish Rockfall: No Sign of Major Instability One Month Later

On April 19, Squamish experienced its biggest rockfall event in over 60 years and one month later, experts say the area is not in for any surprises. The rockfall occurred on the north walls of The Chief around mid-day on April 19. Luckily, no one was hurt from the event, but it
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Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
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