Gripped Magazine

Rock

New Coire Dubious in the Rockies

The Rockies Lodder Peak has long been the scene of winter mixed climbing. The classic Coire Dubh Integral is one of the best 5.7, WI2+, 600-metre alpine-esque mixed routes in Canada. After a few hundred metres of easy ice, you climb corners and pockets to the saddle north of
Read More

Into the Light, Episode Two

Into the light is a title about an unprecedented, unique climbing project. However it is not set to be just another climbing project. The stage is set in the Hadschar Mountains, Oman. In many ways, this place is one of the unique places in the world. The exactly place and route
Read More

Everest is cheaper, cleaner and safer?

“Climbers will have to bring down 8 kg of extra waste or face legal action as government tackles rubbish mountain in Himalayas.” said tourism ministry official Madhusudan Burlakoti. Everest is an important revenue earner for Nepal, with hundreds climbing during the
Read More

Okanagan’s Mythologic

The team of Lyle Knight and Marc Piche bagged the first ascent of Mythologic, a long difficult ice route on the Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan, in 2011. Knight described Mythologic WI6, 140 m as “a skinny version of Nemesis in the Rockies” with “consistently hard” climbing
Read More

Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski have been nominated for their ascent of K6 West. The jury of the 22nd Piolets d’Or selected the following five ascents from a list of 76, no easy task. The president, George Lowe, together with Catherine Destivelle, Erri de Luca,
Read More

Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. The Tepui  Rolando Larcer, Maurizo Ovigliz and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuelza, Escalador
Read More

Patagonia’s Mega.. boulders?

Patagonia is known for its granite spires, Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, but over the years, alpine climbers kept busy on rest days by establishing some easy to hard boulder problems. Bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole made the trip and climbed a number of new lines, including a
Read More

Charlie Porter Dies, 1951-2014

Charlie Porter was an American rock climber, big-wall pioneer and mountaineer. Known for his first ascents in Yosemite, Canada and Alaska, and for his influence on the climbing community with his creation and development of original equipment. He was one of the first people to
Read More

Repeated! Overhead Hazard for Emmett and Premrl

Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have repeated Overhead Hazard, M13, 200 m, at Helmcken Falls, B.C. From January 28 to February 13, Will Gadd, John Freeman, Sarah Hueniken and Katie Bono spent countless hours establishing Canada’s biggest, wildest mixed climb, see here for more
Read More

Hueco Tanks Roundup

The 2014 Hueco Rock Rodeo was a success, new routes were climbed and hard repeats went down. Canada’s Sean McColl placed third. The 21st Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo had its highest turnout to date, with 175 competitors from all over the globe. The scoring works as such: the top
Read More