Gripped Magazine

Rock

Canada’s New “Big-Wall” Mixed Route at Helmcken

Will Gadd, Sarah Hueniken, John Freeman and Katie Bono have finished their mega-project at Helmcken Falls, B.C. The climbers spent two weeks in early 2014 establishing Overhead Hazard, Mhard, 200 metres, at the now-popular spray-ice climbing destination. “I first saw this
Read More

Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia

American climber Chad Kellogg killed by rockfall while descending Fitz Roy. Kellogg was killed form a rock that was dislodged by a rope. Patagonian climber Rolando Garibotti wrote on Super Topo, “Over two days Chad Kellogg and Jens Holsten climbed the Afanassieff Route on the NW
Read More

Free Online Squamish Topos

Quickdraw Publishing is well known for its Banff Mountain Film Festival award-winning guidebook, Squamish Select.  It is hard to believe that Squamish, one of the most climbed-at areas of North America, still has many new routes to be climbed. With each passing season, dozens of
Read More

Honnold’s Mexican Big-Wall Solo, Full-length Clip

On January 15, 2014, Alex Honnold free-soloed El Sendero Luminoso (The Shining Path) in El Portrero Chico, Mexico in a little over three hours. The climb rises 750 metres to the summit of El Toro. It could be the most difficult rope-less climb in history.
Read More

National Geographic Adventurer of the Year Award Goes to Kilian Jornet

The National Geographic Adventurer of the Year was awarded to Kilian Jornet, the record-setting ultra-runner from Spain. Kilian Jornet is the 2014 People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year. In 2013, Jornet shocked many by setting speed records on the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc.
Read More

Perfect Conditions on Foster’s Direttissima

Mount Colonel Foster is on Vancouver Island, B.C., At 2,135 metres it is the fourth highest peak on the island.  In Jan. 1978, Joe Bajan and Ross Nichol made the first winter ascent of Foster’s 1,000-metre east face while making the first ascent of Direttissima, V, AI5.
Read More

Scotland, the “Core”

The land where no local or visiting climber will budge on bolts, the hardware-free walls offer hair raising belays, pounding spin-drift and edge-of-your-seat run outs. Scotland is the land of the hardcore climber.  “It’s not at all about gymnastic grades, or safety,
Read More

Climbing News

The world of climbing is busy with competitions, hard repeats and first ascents. Here are a few of the stories making headlines. Somewhere Over the Rainbow Rock and Ice reported on a new five-pitch M11 in Ouray, Colorado. Jason Nelson and Beth Goralski climbed Somewhere Over the
Read More

Copp-Dash Award Winners

The Copp-Dash Inspire Award, sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia (and with in-kind support from Adventure Film Festival, the American Alpine Club, Jonny Copp Foundation and Sender Films), announced the 2014 winners of the climbing
Read More

Canadians Push Through Poor Patagonia Weather

Jonny Simms and Tony Richardson have made a 32-hour return-trip from Chalten and freed an old aid route in bad weather. Simms and Richardson are two of Canada’s most experienced alpine climbers. For the past few weeks they have been hunkered down in El Chalten, Patagonia.
Read More