Gripped Magazine

Rock

Hardest Mixed Pitch in North America: Sent!

Will Mayo and Ryan Vachon worked the moves to a variation to The Mustang M14- in East Vail, Colorado and Mayo took it to the top. Mayo wrote on his Facebook, “Ryan sent the rig all the way to the last bolt below the thin ice finish, took, lowered off, and said, ‘I
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Books for climbers; top winter reads

Cold days and short daytime hours offer prime reading conditions. Here are the top climbing-related reads for winter 2014. Scroll to the bottom for cover shots. The Calling by Barry Blanchard Blanchard’s much-awaited memoirs. A portrait of the power of mountains to lift us
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Banner Year For Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold is undoubtedly the world’s most popular soloist. From Mexico and Patagonia to Yosemite and Squamish, 2014 was a big year for Honnold. Honnold started 2014 with a solo of the Owen’s River Gorge route Towering Inferno, a five-pitch 5.11b and Gape Index
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Nathan Kutcher Climbs Hard New Quebec Route

Nathan Kutcher is no stranger to headlines. He has established a number of hard ice, mixed and drytooling routes. He competes on the world stage at the UIAA ice climbing world cup. Last year, Kutcher spent three days in St. Alban and onsighted three M10s. St. Alban is an all
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Alex Johnson is Critically Acclaimed

Alex Johnson making the first ascent of a new line in Mustang Canyon, Critically Acclaimed V9. Johnson wrote on her Instagram, “I can’t believe there are still stunning unclimbed lines like this out here. On Tuesday, I was shown this gorgeous project. The crux is low,
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Alex Puccio Climbs Fifth V13 (and watch her crank four one-arm chin-ups)

Alex Puccio has been setting new standards for female bouldering the past year. Recently she made the first female ascent of Black Lung in Joe’s Valley. Puccio wrote on her social media, “Psyched to have sent the classic Black Lung V13 in Joe’s Valle
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New Hard Rockies Mixed Route

In the early 1980s, Jim Elzinga and party climbed a new route up the northeast face of Cirrus Mountain. Cirrus is famous for its west facing Polar Circus and Weeping Wall. In 2011, Elzinga and Gripped editor Brandon Pullan climbed a new route in the valley below the northeast
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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Honnold’s Squamish record you didn’t know about

Alex Honnold is one of the most well-known names in climbing. In 2014, he set a new speed record for Squamish’s Grand Wall. Not only has Honnold has climbed Sonnie Trotter’s testpiece, Cobra Crack 5.14, linked Free Grand 5.13b, Northern Lights 5.12a, Freeway 5.11 and
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Leclerc and Lavigne Climb Wild Thing

Squamish-based Marc-Andre Leclerc and Rockies-based Joshua Lavigne make a rare ascent of Wild Thing VI WI4 M7 1,500 metres on Mount Chephren. Leclerc has been visiting the Rockies for most of November. He climbed a new route with Jon Walsh, The Plum WI6 M7 120 m, soloed Sacre
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