Gripped Magazine

Rock

Catching up with Adam Ondra: World Cups and Dawn Wall

Adam Ondra is a true giant of the climbing world. The Czech climber is the reigning World Champion in both Lead and Bouldering, an unprecedented achievement. On the rocks, Ondra’s tick list of first ascents and repeats are unmatched, both in quality and quantity. At 22
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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab. Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles
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Gord McArthur Sends Difficult Project At Lakit Lake

Gord McArthur is best known for being a top international competitive mixed climber, but during the summer “off season,” he spends his time sans-tools at his local crag: Lakit Lake. Lakit Lake is one of the many crags around Cranbrook, B.C. where McArthur is based. As
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Climber Dies on The Nose

During one of the busier Yosemite seasons of late, a 22-year-old climber from Boulder, CO died on The Nose on May 27. YOSAR reponded to a call on May 27 after a climber fell 60 metres to the end of his rope while attempting to rappel from Camp Six to Camp Five to retrieve a piece
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Alpinist Markus Pucher Solos New Patagonian Line

In April, the strong Austrian climber, Markus Pucher, soloed a new route on a rarely attempted peak near El Chalten. On his Facebook page, Pucher wrote, “New route on West Face of Marconi Sur. Into the Wild 800-metre M5.” The Marconi range were named for Guglielmo
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David Chaundy-Smart Rouses the Calgary Mountain Club

Gripped’s editorial director read excerpts from his book, A Youth Wasted Climbing, to a full house on Wed. May 27 at the Ironwood pub in Calgary. Chaundy-Smart is no stranger to Calgary. The Toronto-based writer spent some time in the Rockies during his climbing forays
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Quebec’s Difficult New Spring Mixed Route: The Last Ronin

Quebec climbers climb a new route in memory of their friend and accomplished climber, Yannick Girard. By Louis Rousseau The day was perfect, except for the March date: Friday the 13th. We stopped for coffee and cakes in Baie, St. Paul at the bakery. We decided to finish our
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Sebastian Bouin Makes Third Ascent of Famous 5.15b

French climber Seb Bouin has made the third ascent of Chilam Balam 5.15b at Villanueva del Rosario in the Andalusia region of Spain. It’s Bouin’s first 5.15b and the route’s third ascent after Bernabé Fernández in 2003 and Adam Ondra in 2011. The route was
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Evan Hau Sends Another New 5.14 in Rockies

Evan Hau is a Calgary-based climber who is among the top sport climbers in the country. He is spending his summer finding and sending some of the Bow Valley’s last hard projects.  While on his journey to find Canada’s first 5.15a, Hau’s been busy putting down
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Jacob Cook: British Undercover Crusher Sending in America

British climber Jason Cook and his partner Bronwyn Hodgins have relocated to America for the time being to free some Yosemite and Zion classics. The pair recently climbed Moonlight Buttress 5.12d in Zion National Park, but failed to free all of the pitches. They returned with a
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