Lunar Tide is Big New Squamish 5.11

June 28th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in News, Rock, Routes, West Coast | No Comments »

Jason Ammerlaan and Colin Moorehead established Lunar Tide, a new 250-metre 5.11d 10-pitch route up the Zodiac Wall recently. The route starts up the classic Gone Surfin’ (first climbed in 1985 by Dean Hart […]


Seb Bouin Sends Decades-Old France Project

June 28th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in International, News, Rock, Routes | No Comments »

Seb Bouin recently sent a 20-year project in France he called Legend 5.14d at Pic Saint-Loup close to Monpellier in France. Bouin added an extension to the 25-metre Legend that he hopes to send […]


Adam Ondra Climbs New V15 Called Krater

June 27th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in Bouldering, International, News, Routes | No Comments »

In between projecting sessions on the world’s potential first 5.15d in Norway, Ondra has climbed a new V15 in Holstein, Czech Republic. He called his new line Krater and according to 8a.nu, it’s his […]


Quebec Lac du Cap Topo With Four-Pitch Lines

June 26th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in East, Routes | No Comments »

There’s a lot of climbing in Quebec, from the remote walls at Cap Trinite to the popular cliffs of Mont Rigaud. In a new topo found at EscaladeQuebec.com for Lac du Cap, there are […]


Watch a Send of Archangel 5.12 in Boulder Canyon

June 26th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in International, Routes, Video | No Comments »

Curtis Beutler works on and sends the well-known Boulder Canyon test-piece Archangel 5.12c. The line has long been at the centre of debate about bolting ethics and trad verses sport. What once was a […]


Five Fun Summer Val David Trad Routes to 5.10

June 20th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in East, Profiles, Routes | No Comments »

Val David is one of Canada’s most historic crags. Nestled into the Laurentians north of Montreal, the granite walls are made of ancient stone that have been providing generations of climbers with fun and […]


Watch James Pearson on New Run-Out 5.14 France Crack

June 19th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in International, Profiles, Routes | No Comments »

Watch James Pearson send Le Voyage at Annot in France. The run-out line goes at E10 7a, which is spicy 5.14. “Trad is beautiful, and natural, but it can also be fickle,” noted Pearson. […]