Gripped Magazine

Routes

Hard New Route on Scottish Sea Stack

The Arborath sea cliffs are near the town of Arborath in Scotland and offer over 100 routes on 20-metres sandstone wall. Robbie Phillips and Neil McGeachy recently climbed a new E8 6b and a sea stack at Arborath and named it Deil Or No Deil. Phillips and McGeachy both headpointed
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Max Fisher’s New East Coast Ice Guide

The East Coast has some of Canada’s best ice climbing and very few people have the information necessary to plan a trip there. Max Fisher is often climbing in South America or Alaska, but when home on the East Coast he’s exploring his local ice crags. “Here is a
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Alex Megos Continues Sending Spree In Australia

Alex Megos made quick work of the Sydney, Australia problem Double Demerit V14 at Sunnyside. Megos traveled to Australia after his trip to Japan. Within only a few days, he’s sent many of the area’s testpiece routes. He started his trip with a V11, V12 and V13 in
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Alaska Season Starts Early With New Mount Dickey Route

John Frieh, Chad Diesinger and Jason Stuckey have climbed a new route on the northeast face of Mount Dickey. On March 20 and 21, the three alpinists established Blue Collar Beatdown V WI4 M4 that required 48 hours of climbing, minus a few hours of recovering. John Frieh’s
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Sachi Amma Crushing in Bishop

Sachi Amma’s sending spree seems to be continuing, but instead of repeating 5.15s in Europe, Amma is busy climbing some of Bishop’s hardest problems.  Amma reported that he recently sent a few famous Bishop routes including The Buttermilker V13, The Mandala V12 and
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Mount Temple’s Sphinx Face Skied by Colin Haley and Rob Smith

Colin Haley and Rob Smith are no strangers to the Canadian Rockies. During the last week of March, they made a ski descent of the Sphinx Face on Mount Temple. Mount Temple has been called the Eiger of the Rockies because of their similar size, terrain and history. One main
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Early Season Sends on Bow Valley Rock

There is still skiing to be had, ice fat and climbable, but on the Bow Valley’s south facing rock walls, it’s game on for rock climbers. Of course with the sun comes the ticks and they’ve been out in full force. Nearly every climber has reported having at least
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New Five-Pitch Mixed Route in Rocky Mountain National Park

With long days and cold nights, alpine climbing conditions are perfect in some mountain ranges around North America.  In Rocky Mountain National Park Doug Shepherd and Chris Sheridan climbed a new route above Emerald Lake on the north face of Hallett Peak. On the third buttress,
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New Moderate Mixed Route in the Alps

Watch this short video of Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey on their first ascent of Zephyr M5+ 6b 400 metres on Mont Maudit. Read about the first ascent here. First ascent, “Zephyr” Mt Maudit from Matt Helliker on Vimeo.
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Film: Jesse Huey Climbs The Shadow

In 1988, Peter Croft onsighted the first free ascent of The Shadow, an eye-catching 50-metre dihedral on Squamish’s Chief that goes at 5.13b. Watch Jesse Huey as he does a rare free-ascent of the legendary line. Brette Harrington Climbs The Shadow  
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