Gripped Magazine

Routes

New Dolomite Route (looks thin!)

Maurizio Zanolla has freed Pinne Gialle (Yellow Fin,) a new four-pitch route on Tognazza in Italy’s Dolomites. The Tognazza wall has a number of weaknesses that had been climbed, but the blank wall called to Zanolla to climb it. The route climbs through the lower wall on an
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Caroline Ciavaldini climbs Requiem E8

Italian climber Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Requiem E8 at Dumbarton Rock and adds to her growing list of hard trad redpoints. Requiem was climbed in 1983 by Dave Cuthbertson. At the time it was one of the hardest rock climbs in the world at the time. It follows a crackline
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New 10-pitch route near Golden B.C.

New route in B.C. will certainly draw climbers east of the divide and from near-by Golden. Andrea Eitle and Cody Lank have completed a new 10-pitch 5.11 called Gorman Gold. The crux is 5.11b and takes a direct line up an aesthetic tower and links into an upper corner system
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Gasherbrum V: climbed at last

The remote Gasherbrum range peak was one of the last unclimbed challenges in the region. On July 25, two Korean climbers stood on top of the 7,147-metre peak. Nak-jong Seong and Chi-young Ahn arrived at basecamp in early summer. After attempting the north face they changed plans
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Speed Record on The Naked Edge

On September 24th, Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright retook their speed record on The Naked Edge 5.11 in Eldorado Canyon, CO. The team shaved 15 seconds off of the previous record set by Jason Wells and Stefan Griebel in August 2014. Griebel was there to cheer on his
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Another new 5.13 at Lion’s Head

Last week we reported about a number of new 5.13s at Lion’s Head. This week, Mark Smith has added another. Mark Smith sent an 40-metre project which is the direct finish to his recent new route 30 Years in the Making 5.13c. Smith is calling his new route Reach for the Sky
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Daniel Woods finds new V13 in Peru

American boulderer Daniel Woods has established a new boulder problem while on vacation in Peru. On Sept. 24, Woods updated his social media with, “En route to Hatu Machai. Nice sunset to look at while surviving the seven-hour drive into the mountains. Psyched to see this
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Vid: Ontario’s Big Kahuna 5.13d

Lion’s Head is many climbers favourite limestone crag. Some of the world’s best climbers have added routes to the steep walls above Georgian Bay. If you don’t know much about Lion’s Head, visit a previous story on Gripped here. One of the classic hard
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Achilles Spire: Big 5.8 Rockies Route

Achilles Spire was established in 2012, but few know about it. For those in the know, it is one of the finer 13-pitch bolted 5.8 routes. Achilles Spire has 300 metres of relatively easy climbing. It was established by Eric Dumerac, Sid Cupido and Chad Casey on September 7, 2012.
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New wall at Area 44

Jack Fieldhouse and friends have established a new short, burly crag at the West Coast’s Area 44. The Distillery is located just off the trail to the Pillary crag at Area 44.  The routes are at a variety of grades up to 5.11+. The routes are short, but burly. As Fieldhouse
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