Gripped Magazine

Routes

Hansjorg Auer on The Music of Chance

Hansjorg Auer has climbed dozens of cutting-edge new routes. In 2012, he established The Music of Chance 5.11b, A3 on the Kristallwand Face in Austria. The Kristallwand Face was first tried by Hermann Buhl, the legendary Austrian climber. Music of Hope Variation The route took
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Ines Papert Repeats Hard Scottish Route

Ines Papert is perhaps the world’s best known German ice climber. She recently made the first female ascent of a very hard route in Scotland called The Hurting. Papert was in Scotland to speak at the Fort William Mountain Festival. Fresh off a repeat of Ritter der Kokonuss,
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Wild New Maritime Ice Climbs

The east coast has been getting hammered with cold weather and lots of snow since the New Year. By Max Fisher In December 2014, there was little to no snow and warm temps in the Maritime provinces and ice climbing season seemed very far away. Fortunately, January came around and
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Sachi Amma Concludes Milestone Trip

The Japanese climber Sachi Amma has left Spain after a few weeks of sending some of the areas hardest routes. By Eddie Gianelloni As many already know, Amma sent his hardest route, Fight or Flight 5.15b earlier this month. What many do not know is what this meant to him. Over the
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Mike Anderson Sends One of America’s Hardest Routes

Mission Impossible is an extreme face climb at the Wall of the ’90’s in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. The line was envisioned and bolted by Jay Samuelson who gave it that name as a challenge to the climbing community. Daniel Woods did the “impossible”
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Big New Ontario Ice Climbs and The Crown Jewel

Ontario has hundreds of ice climbs and despite decades of exploration there are still world-class routes being discovered close to the road. Algoma Ice Climbing By Dave Broadhead If one were to compile a small list of classic winter climbing areas then it would probably include
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Wesley Fowler Sends Dino Dyno

Wesley Fowler making very quick work of Michael O’Rourke’s new Dino Dyno V11 a month or two ago. Wesley Fowler sends “Dino Dyno” from Hunter Damiani on Vimeo.
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YoungHye Kwon Climbs the World’s Hardest Mixed Routes

Korean mixed climber, YoungHye Kwon, recently traveled the world to climb the hardest mixed routes in one season. The routes he sent were Steel Koan M13+ in Cineplex Cave of Canadian Rockies, Mustang M14 in East Vail, U.S., IronMan M14+ in Eptingen, Switzerland, which is the
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Vid: Kilian Fischhuber Crushes V15

Watch Kilian Fishhuber dipatch Insanity of Grandeur in less than three minutes.
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New Route in Kloof Gorge, South Africa

Warwick Hastie spotted this line at the The Gutter, in Kloof Gorge in January 2015. Hastie said, “After rappelling down the route and checking it out, it seemed it would go so I placed some anchors and worked it at the end of January and beginning of February. It ended up
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