Gripped Magazine

Routes

New Hard Bugaboo Free Route is Reinhold Pussycat

The Bugaboos have been been abuzz this year with a number of hard new free routes. The latest was by Bruce Miller and Chris Weidner and it’s called Reinhold Pussycat 5.12c, which they first climbed in 2006 at 5.11 A2. In the 2007 American Alpine Journal, Weidner wrote,
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A List of Hard and Steep Canadian Routes

Canada has some hard routes, from burly to long and technical 5.14s. Here is a select list of some of the hardest. By Sophia Vlahos Canadian climbing legend, Sonnie Trotter, has largely influenced the world of climbing in Canada by establishing and making first ascents on
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New Bigwall 5.13 in Norway is Splitter

Dave MacLeod, Jacob Cook and Calum Muskett have made the first free ascent of Disco 2000 on Blåmman, near Tromso in the northern part of Norway. The 13-pitch 5.13 was freed over three days, after aid climbing and working the lower part of the route. MacLeod wrote the following on
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Watch an Ascent of a Big Ontario 5.9++

Titon Crack is a Northwestern Ontario classic at Orient Bay near Nipigon. Aric Fishman, Jamie Funk, Duncan Hutchison and Matt Smith recently teamed up for an ascent of the iconic three-pitch route at the Tajmahwall. Titon Crack is graded 5.9++, as Orient Bay has a number of
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Jamie Finlayson Sends Silent Menace/Smell the Glove

Jamie Finlayson is one of Canada’s strongest climbers and he recently sent a long-time project in Squamish. By Jamie Finlayson I tried this route off and on for four years, but the nearby route, Dreamcather 5.14d, had always distracted me. This season, I decided to put some
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Watch Roland Hemetzberger Send Delirium

As the standard of sport climbing has risen, room is running out at classic crags for climbers to make their mark on classy lines.  Over the past decade, many young climbers are taking their 5.14 skills to big alpine walls. Watch Roland Hemetzberger climb a new 5.14 in the Kaiser
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Alex Megos Nabs Second Ascent of Norway 5.15

Alex Megos has made the second ascent of Thor’s hammer 5.15a in Flatanger Cave in Norway. The 60-metre pitch was first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2012 after being equipped by Magnus Midtbo. Megos only needed three days to send the monster route. “Felt harder then the other
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North America’s “Highest Unclimbed Peak” is Climbed in Yukon

Two South American climbers are the first to stand on Malaspina 3,776 metres in the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon. Their 1,900-metre climb has difficulties up to 65 degrees. Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada climbed the remote mountain as part of their Uncharted Project. The
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New Hard Route at Lion’s Head

Daniel Martian has added a new difficult route to the Titan area at Lion’s Head. Martian’s new route is called Atlas Shrugged 5.14a and climbs next to the esthetic and now-famous Titan 5.14a on the Titan Wall. “It starts the same like Titan and after the second
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New Hard Route on Squamish’s Sheriff’s Badge

Tony McLane and Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent of The Daily Universe, a new 5.12b up the Sheriff’s Badge. The Daily Universe is an extension to the already classic 5.12a route on the Sheriff’s Badge called The Daily Planet. The new nine-pitch route is the first
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