Gripped Magazine

East

Ontario Ice Is Good To Go

Southern Ontario ice is forming and climbers have been swinging the tools. In Northern Ontario, the classic climbs have been in for weeks. The new Southern Ontario ice climbing guidebook by Andriy Kolos is providing lots of motivation for climbers to get out ice climbing.
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Mason Earl on Quebec’s Toit de Ben

In the summer of 2012, Mason Earle flashed Le Toit de Ben at Quebec’s Val David. Le Toit de Ben is a 10-metre roof crack in Quebec that was established in 1958 by Bernard Poisson. The first ascent used wood pegs, a home-made chast-harness, a hemp rope and some wood pegs.
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Nathan Kutcher Climbs Hard New Quebec Route

Nathan Kutcher is no stranger to headlines. He has established a number of hard ice, mixed and drytooling routes. He competes on the world stage at the UIAA ice climbing world cup. Last year, Kutcher spent three days in St. Alban and onsighted three M10s. St. Alban is an all
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Film: Belayer to the Stars

Andy Arts lives in Canmore. Few may recognize his name, but he has been an instrumental part of many important sends.  Watch this 15-minute film, which includes cameos from Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard, Sonnie Trotter, Sharon Wood, Kevin Doyle and many more, as Arts takes us on the
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New Ontario 5.14 by Joe Skopec

Joe Skopec has established one of Ontario’s hardest sport climbs. The Ontario-based climber sent the route after a few months of projecting it Skopec found and bolted the line in March 2014. After many sessions, he sorted out the crux. “The 20-metre climb breaks down
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Vid: Ode to Arapiles

Ontario’s sandstone crag of Pass Lake near The Sleeping Giant Provincial Park has nearly 100 routes up to 5.12. During the 1980s, climbers either top-roped the easy routes or took to climbing the obvious cracks with protection. In the late 90s, a few bolts were added to a
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Another new 5.13 at Lion’s Head

Last week we reported about a number of new 5.13s at Lion’s Head. This week, Mark Smith has added another. Mark Smith sent an 40-metre project which is the direct finish to his recent new route 30 Years in the Making 5.13c. Smith is calling his new route Reach for the Sky
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Vid: Ontario’s Big Kahuna 5.13d

Lion’s Head is many climbers favourite limestone crag. Some of the world’s best climbers have added routes to the steep walls above Georgian Bay. If you don’t know much about Lion’s Head, visit a previous story on Gripped here. One of the classic hard
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Sens Unique Film

Here’s the first and second trailer of the upcoming film expected out this fall. It documents the first winter ascent of an aesthetic route Sens Unique in the Parc des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, Quebec, by climbers Louis Rousseau and Yannick Girard. New Trailer Old Trailer
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Heerema Sends two Canadian V12s

The Phoenix is one of the Niagara Glen’s harder problems. Ontario climber David Heerema sent it, and a V12 in Quebec, during a week-long road trip this spring. Heerema, who is one of Canada’s strongest boulderers, wrote this about the climb “The Phoenix was a
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