Gripped Magazine

East

Watch an Ascent of a Big Ontario 5.9++

Titon Crack is a Northwestern Ontario classic at Orient Bay near Nipigon. Aric Fishman, Jamie Funk, Duncan Hutchison and Matt Smith recently teamed up for an ascent of the iconic three-pitch route at the Tajmahwall. Titon Crack is graded 5.9++, as Orient Bay has a number of
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New Hard Route at Lion’s Head

Daniel Martian has added a new difficult route to the Titan area at Lion’s Head. Martian’s new route is called Atlas Shrugged 5.14a and climbs next to the esthetic and now-famous Titan 5.14a on the Titan Wall. “It starts the same like Titan and after the second
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Watch Nathalie Malo Send Zombie Roof!

Nathalie Malo had only been climbing four years when she sent the famous Squamish 5.13 called Zombie Roof in 2010. Malo also snagged the first female ascent of Toit de Ben, a 5.13a roof in Val David, Quebec. Nathalie Malo Red Pointing Zombie Roof in Squamish, BC from nathmalo on
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Jam Rock, Chris Sharma’s Quebec Route

Watch Yanick Duguay climb Welcome to Jam Rock, one of Quebec’s hardest route. Welcome to Jam Rock was considered Quebec’s most difficult route until Chris Sharma came along and sent it. In 2010, Duguay repeated the steep route that climbs a crimpy 5.11 face to V11
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Watch the First Free Ascent of a Quebec 5.14

In 2009, Julien Bourassa-Moreau was starting to take is place on the climbing scene and he is now one of Quebec’s strongest climbers. In this video, Julien makes the first free ascent of a now-popular 5.14a at Baldi called Cassiopee.
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The New Must-Have Online Lion’s Head Guidebook

Greg Williamson recently uploaded his new guidebook to Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Williamson, 42, is one of Lion’s Head’s most prolific climbers and has established over 20 new routes from 5.9 trad climbs to 5.13b sport routes. Lion’s Head’s steep
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10 Great Ascents in Canada From the Past Century

No better way to celebrate Canada Day than to look back at 100 years and 10 great ascents on Canadian soil. In 1896, Ha Ling made the first ascent of the most westward peak in the Ehagay Nakoda range south of Canmore. The peak now has a number of classic route routes, read about
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Difficult New Route Climbed on Remote Quebec Wall

Patrick Brouillard and Charles Lacroix have established the most difficult route on Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, north of Quebec City. Their new route is a 200-metre six-pitch 5.11 A0 called Contortions. The first few pitches follow cracks and chimneys at around 5.9. The
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Watch Jean-Pierre Ouellet on His Hypothenuse, 5.13+

The Quebec crack-master sends an old project on his home turf
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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab. Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles
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