Gripped Magazine

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Quebec’s Axel Pic Sends His First 5.14

Axel Pic has climbed his first 5.14a at a popular crag about one-hour east of Montreal. Pic sent Alpha Beta 5.14a at Mount Orford on Oct. 1. The steep route was one of the first 5.14s in the province. The route climbs an overhanging wall and the slopey crux is right at the top.
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Canadians Send Hard Routes in Autumn Temps

From coast to coast, Canadians have been busy sending boulders and hard sport routes this month. Climbers have been taking advantage of the fall weather windows to tick their long-standing projects. In the Grand Wall Boulders, Jamie Finlayson, who recently had a baby boy, sent
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New Big Newfoundland Route is 5.12

Newfoundland’s Blow Me Down is one of the east coast’s most adventurous walls. The new route is a 12-pitch 5.12 400-metre line, which climbs through a section of steep roofs, is called Betrayer of Hope and was established by Sam Bendroth and Bayard Russell. It climbs
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Ontario’s Mount Olympus and a New Route

Steve Charlton and Jody Bernst are no strangers to the remote Orient Bay valley in Northern Ontario, they helped establish most of the area’s routes in the 1990s. Charlton is a longtime route developer in Orient Bay and has completed many of the area’s most difficult
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A List of Hard and Steep Canadian Routes

Canada has some hard routes, from burly to long and technical 5.14s. Here is a select list of some of the hardest. By Sophia Vlahos Canadian climbing legend, Sonnie Trotter, has largely influenced the world of climbing in Canada by establishing and making first ascents on
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Watch an Ascent of a Big Ontario 5.9++

Titon Crack is a Northwestern Ontario classic at Orient Bay near Nipigon. Aric Fishman, Jamie Funk, Duncan Hutchison and Matt Smith recently teamed up for an ascent of the iconic three-pitch route at the Tajmahwall. Titon Crack is graded 5.9++, as Orient Bay has a number of
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New Hard Route at Lion’s Head

Daniel Martian has added a new difficult route to the Titan area at Lion’s Head. Martian’s new route is called Atlas Shrugged 5.14a and climbs next to the esthetic and now-famous Titan 5.14a on the Titan Wall. “It starts the same like Titan and after the second
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Watch Nathalie Malo Send Zombie Roof!

Nathalie Malo had only been climbing four years when she sent the famous Squamish 5.13 called Zombie Roof in 2010. Malo also snagged the first female ascent of Toit de Ben, a 5.13a roof in Val David, Quebec. Nathalie Malo Red Pointing Zombie Roof in Squamish, BC from nathmalo on
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Jam Rock, Chris Sharma’s Quebec Route

Watch Yanick Duguay climb Welcome to Jam Rock, one of Quebec’s hardest route. Welcome to Jam Rock was considered Quebec’s most difficult route until Chris Sharma came along and sent it. In 2010, Duguay repeated the steep route that climbs a crimpy 5.11 face to V11
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Watch the First Free Ascent of a Quebec 5.14

In 2009, Julien Bourassa-Moreau was starting to take is place on the climbing scene and he is now one of Quebec’s strongest climbers. In this video, Julien makes the first free ascent of a now-popular 5.14a at Baldi called Cassiopee.
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