Gripped Magazine

International

Ondra Flashes 5.14d

Adam Ondra continues his sending spree with two more hard routes, which brings his total to 102 routes rated 5.14d or harder. Ondra recently flashed Chromosome Y 5.14d at Charmany in Switzerland. It’s his second flash of a 5.14d, the first was his 2012 climb of Southern
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A Passion for New Routing

Like all good Genevans, Michel Piola discovered rock climbing at the Salève, a huge cliff outside Geneva that has been a training ground for a number of leading mountaineers. After 30 years of route-setting, he is without doubt one of the great new routers and has left a lasting
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Mugs Stump Award Winners

The 2015 Mugs Stump Award winners were announced recently. An amazing 11 trips are being assisted by the award. The Mugs Stump Award is a collaborative effort by a number of American-based companies and was created in the memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America’s great
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Vid: Siegrist on Spectrum

Jonathan Siegrist sends a new route just outside of Las Vegas. After reaching the top of this challenging 5.14c first ascent, Siegrist named this route Spectrum. GREAT DAYS 2: Jonathan Siegrist’s Spectrum from smith optics on Vimeo.
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Paul Robinson in South Africa

Over the Summer, Paul Robinson had one goal in mind: to establish as many FAs as possible in a new area of South Africa. Here are just a few of over 50 problems he put up.
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Vid: Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva in North America

Nico Favresse and Seán Villanueva spent four months in fall 2008 traveling western North America (the pair are from Belgium) with their climbing gear, a mandolin, a tin whistle and a penchant for hitchhiking. From Squamish to the Bugaboos to Yosemite to Indian Creek they did bold
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Americans Climb New Patagonia Spire

Colin Haley recently spent time in a rarely-visited part of Patagonia on the border of Chile and Argentina. Haley, fresh from a summer in the Canadian Rockies, has made a number of trips to South America, but this is his first into the Cerro San Lorenzo massif. The mountains of
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Hardest Mixed Pitch in North America: Sent!

Will Mayo and Ryan Vachon worked the moves to a variation to The Mustang M14- in East Vail, Colorado and Mayo took it to the top. Mayo wrote on his Facebook, “Ryan sent the rig all the way to the last bolt below the thin ice finish, took, lowered off, and said, ‘I
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Robert Jasper and his hard M12 trad route

One year ago, Robert Jasper climbed a number of hard new mixed routes in Switzerland. He climbed Ritter der Kokosnuss M12, WI5 and Flying Circus M10 using a combination of trad gear and pitons. The acceptance of drilled holds (using a power drill to create pick holes) seems to be
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Trad Resurgence at Céüse

Believe it or not, the world-class sport climbing destination Céüse started as a trad climber’s crag. Bolts were eventually used, but now there is a small group of climbers pushing the grades using traditional protection. Three years ago, Arnaud Petit climbed Black Bean
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