Gripped Magazine

International

Sebastian Bouin Makes Third Ascent of Famous 5.15b

French climber Seb Bouin has made the third ascent of Chilam Balam 5.15b at Villanueva del Rosario in the Andalusia region of Spain. It’s Bouin’s first 5.15b and the route’s third ascent after Bernabé Fernández in 2003 and Adam Ondra in 2011. The route was
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New Route on Yosemite’s Broderick

Yosemite is one of the world’s most popular climbing destinations, but there remains a number of unclimbed routes. Brandon Adams and Alec Zachreson have added Thugz Mansion 5.10b A2 and Voodoo Child variation to the south wall of Broderick. To find the route, approach up
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New Route on Alaska’s Mount Lucifer

John Frieh has made a number of trips to Alaska’s Stikine Ice Cap and on almost every trip climbs a new route. In May 2015, Frieh was joined by Doug Shepherd for the first ascent of the north face of Mount Lucifer 2,300 metres. Frieh’s first trip to the Stikine was in
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Update: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 5.15b

A week ago, we reported that Ethan Pringle was busy projecting the Clark Mountain test-piece Jumbo Love, a route he first tried nearly five years ago. Update: DPM reports that Pringle sent Jumbo Love, the hardest route in America, on May 17. For the full story, visit here. Making
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Conrad Anker Completes Zion Climb Started 24 Years Ago

The Temple of Sinewava wall in Zion National Park rises over 300 metres and is a desert landmark with it’s sometimes free-falling waterfall. Conrad Anker teamed up with David Lama to complete a project he first attempte with Doug Heinrich in the early 1990’s. The
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Watch Paul Robinson Climb Hard Boulders in Colorado

Watch Paul Robinson climb Lost in Space V12 in Rocky Mountain National Park and the first ascent of Log Cabins V12 in St. Vrain. Follow Robinson on Instagram: A photo posted by Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) on May 15, 2015 at 8:16am PDT
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Brette Harrington Repeats Historical Californian 5.13+ Crack

Brette Harrington spends most of her time in Squamish, but the American climber is no stranger to other world-class areas including Patagonia and Yosemite. She recently made a likely second-female-ascent of a California classic. Two weeks ago, Harrington sent Grand Illusion, the
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Proud New Line on the Mooses Tooth

Canadian Alik Berg and American Skiy Detray are returning to their respected homes on either side of the border after a team effort bagged them a proud new line in Alaska. Berg and Detray made headlines this year when they made the second winter ascent of the Greenwood/Locke M6
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Watch Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee Climb in South America

Watch Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee make the second and third free ascent of the Sifuentes – Monti route at Frey, Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina. Nicolas Favresse made the first free ascent in 2011 and graded it 5.13a. The route has been freed a number of times now.
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Dai Koyamada Sends Longtime Project

Japanese climber, Dai Koyamada, has climbed a mega project Mount Hiei that he was introduced to three years ago. Koyamada, 38, reported on his blog (in Japanese) that the climb follow a steep crack in a granite boulder that is followed by a five-metre slab. He is yet to grade or
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