Gripped Magazine

International

Out of This World at Helmcken Falls with Interstellar Spice

Interstellar Spice might be Canada’s longest and most difficult pitch of its kind. World-class climbers Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett recently spent a week at Canada’s remote Helmcken Falls in B.C establishing Interstellar Spice. The area has been on the map for a few
Read More

Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz Send Scottish Knuckleduster

For the past month, a number of Canadians have been sending hard routes in Scotland. Two of those Canadians are Michelle Kadatz and Jon Walsh. Having climbed a number of test-piece winter lines in the area before, the Calgary crushers knew the lay of the land before heading over
Read More

Big Bouldering Sends in Europe

It seems to be send season in Europe as many hard problems have been going down. James Webb made the first American ascent and fourth ascent overall of L’Alchimiste, which had two sends within a few weeks prior. After finishing second in the USA Bouldering Nationals, he
Read More

The Patagonia Torre Traverse in a Day!

Colin Haley and Alex Honnold have sent the Torre Traverse in a day for its second ascent. The traverse of the Torre peaks in Patagonia was first done by Haley and Rolando Garibotti in January 2008. Eight years later, Haley teamed up with the Honnold, who last year made the first
Read More

Canadians Sending in Japan, Scotland, Patagonia and Tasmania

Some of Canada’s top climbers have gone abroad for ice, rock and icy rock.  First was a trip to Scotland for the icy rock. Alpine climbers Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski were invited to the annual BMC winter festival. The two Piolet d’Or-winning climbers became
Read More

Brette Harrington Solos Patagonia Route

American alpinist Brette Harrington has arrived in Patagonia for the winter. On her Instagram, she reported soloing the classic route called Austriaca on Aguja de l’S. The route was first climbed in 1987 by Hans Bärnthaler and Ewald Lidl from Austria. Pataclimb.com has
Read More

David Lama and Conrad Anker Attempt Nepal Peak

In Nov. 2015, David Lama and Conrad Anker climbed to a new highpoint on the headwall of Lunag Ri, a 6,907-metre peak on the border of Nepal and Tibet. The Austrian-American team gave everything to be the first to reach the virgin summit. In the end, due to freezing temperatures
Read More

Watch a Send of a Classic Squamish Line

Another great video from Stu Smith of a send from the Squamish Smoke Bluffs. The route was first climbed by Peter Croft and Tami Knight at 5.11b. As Smith wrote, “There were two bolts protecting the roof and lip, luckily they were chopped leaving a pure gear protected route
Read More

Watch Tom Randall Climb Hard Kraken

Watch Tom Randall climb his hard roof problem called Kraken V13. Visit Randall’s blog for more on his send: “When I first tried this move I was convinced that my forearm or finger would explode with a loud ‘bang’ if I even tried to put 75 per cent of my
Read More

Nanga Parbat Winter Team Calls it Quits

The Nanga Light team with a Canadian connection have turned around from camp four. In 2015, Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz were only 300 metres from the summit of the 8,126-metre Nanga Parbat when they turned around. They were one of many teams who had attempted the first
Read More