Gripped Magazine

International

New V15 Highball in Mexico

Daniel Woods climbs the king line of the boulder of his dreams/nightmares in the beautiful, but foreboding Mexican desert. After Jimmy Webb spots the overhung, highball problem, it claims a casualty when Dave Graham pops his tendon on it. Bowed, but not broken Daniel spends every
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Big Dyno Start to New 5.14+

Raw footage of Jernej Kruder on his new 5.14c, check out the dyno off the start. From Kruder’s blog: In 2011 I bolted the first route in local crag Sopota. It was the most obvious line and in the fall, I managed to do the first ascent. So we got first, very hard route,
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Bock sends another new 5.15a at Jura

Markus Bock reports that he has done the first ascent of Becoming 5.15a in Frankenjura which was a long standing project he bolted in 2011. Alexander Megos also climbed a new 5.15a, see here. Here is a list of Frankenjura’s top 100: 1 Corona Schneiderloch 11/11+ 9a+ Markus
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Megos sends new 5.15a

Alex Megos has done the FA of Modified 5.15a which means that he has done seven 14d or harder routes Frankenjura this year. “Yeah!!! Made another first ascent of a route in Frankenjura! Its a variation of Classified, a route which I made the first ascent of last year.
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Melloblocco 2014

Melloblocco 2014 by Michele Caminati who documented the international climbing meeting in Val Masino – Val di Mello. Interviews with: Barbara Zangerl, Gabriele Moroni, Sachi Amma, Anthony Gullsten, Steve McClure, Leah Crane, Mauro Calibani, Stefan Glowacz, Melissa Le Nevé,
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Himalayan Permit Requests Down From 2013

The number of 2014 climbing permit requests is half compared to 2013. Summer 2013 was a bad year in the Karakorum and Himalaya. With 22 deaths, half from the attack at the Nanga Parbat basecamp, the season could be called catastrophic. No climbers are willing to accept the
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Alizee Dufraisse Projects La Rambla

Alizée Dufraisse has been projecting Ramòn Julian Puigblanque’s iconic La Rambla original 5.15a, at Siurana, Spain. This spring she spent five weeks projecting the route. Alex Huber made the first ascent in 1994, and it was repeated nine years later by Ramón Julián
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Hazel Findlay, first woman to climb British E9

Hazel Findlay became the first woman to climb a British E9 with her ascent of Once Upon A Time In The Southwest, near Devon, UK. This is an excerpt from the REEL ROCK 8 Film SPICE GIRL “I’ve had quite a few pegs snap on me, so I back them up with sliders,” says
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Prusik Peak West Ridge

Prusik Peak is a solid granite mountain in the Enchantments, south of Leavenworth, Washington. The Enchantments are a peaceful setting and said to be one of the most majestic parts of the Cascades in the Stuart Range. The area embraces an alpine desert-like feel with a number of
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Classan makes first female ascent of Just Do It!

Paige Claassen has been traveling the world on her Lead Now Tour over the last year. The 22-year-old Claassen has sent  Just Do It 5.14c at Smith Rocks. It is the first female ascent of the route. The route was established by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1992. Claassen and her new
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