Gripped Magazine

International

New Difficult Big Wall Route in Madagascar

Hamid Reza Shafaghi, Hassan Gerami and Farshad Mijoji climbed some big wall classics to prepare for their new Madagascar route on the Tsaranoro massif. The three Iranian climbers established the 440-metre 5.13d A2 to the top of the Karambony Tower in Madagascar in April after six
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Watch Joe Valley’s New Bouldering Problems

Joe’s Valley, Utah, is one of the world’s most popular bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders are perfect for climbing with textured, but skin-friendly rock. There are countless problems for climbing and recently a new area was opened with new difficult
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Watch Matt Segal and Will Stanhope Climb in Joshua Tree

Stingray is a rarely climbed 5.13d crack in California’s Joshua Tree, which is home to many of America’s test-piece routes. Matt Segal and Canadian Will Stanhope first climb the terrifying John Bachar route Acid Crack’ 5.12d, which features thin, strenuous
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Ben Moon Makes Fourth Ascent of Difficult Rainshadow

British climber, Ben Moon, made the fourth ascent of Rainshadow 5.14d at Malhom Cove on Mon. June 8. Moon, who is 48 and has his 49th birthday on June 13, sent the difficult route 25 years after his first 5.14d. Just climbed my 2nd 9a 25 years after my 1st. Rainshadow 4th ascent.
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Adam Ondra’s Historic V14 Flash

Adam Ondra spent his post-World Cup recovery time climbing hard bouldering problems in Rocky Mountain National Park and flashed two difficult routes. Ondra made one of the hardest flashes in the history books with his send of Jade V14. He also flashed Don’t Get Greedy V13.
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Earthquake Kills Mountain Guide and Destroys Iconic Kinabalu Peak

A deadly 6.0-magnitude quake occurred in the Malaysian state of Sabah on Borneo island about 55 kilometres from the the summit of Mount Kinabalu 4,095 metres. The quake happened on Friday at 7:15 a.m. local and caused rockslides that killed 19 people including mountain guides and
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Emily Harrington Sends Yosemite’s Golden Gate

American climber, Emily Harrington, has succeeded in sending her big wall project of 2015 with her send of Golden Gate 5.13. It took Harrington six days to send the 41-pitch El Cap route, which she led every pitch on. The first ascent of Golden Gate was in 2000 by Alex and Thomas
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Sachi Amma and Yuji Hirayama: Hard New Routes in Borneo

In 2013, we ran a feature by Yuji Hirayama about the climbing on Mount Kinabalu in Borneo. Three years after Hirayama’s historic 2012 trip, he’s returned with crusher Sachi Amma. The two Japanese climbers spent three weeks at the iconic Mount Kinabalu where they sent
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Remote Northwest Adventure Yields New Long Routes

Canadian Max Fisher and American Eric Bonnett have returned from another successful trip to Alaska and Northwestern B.C., where they’ve climbed two new long alpine granite routes. By Max Fisher During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Erik Bonnett and I
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Europeans Make First Ascent of Alaska’s Mount Reaper

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the unclimbed Mount Reaper in Alaska by their Sugar Man M7 A1 750 metres route up the north face. Mount Reaper was not only unclimbed, but reportedly unnamed and is on the Pitchfork Glacier near Mount Citadel and Berserker. The
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