Gripped Magazine

International

Trad Resurgence at Céüse

Believe it or not, the world-class sport climbing destination Céüse started as a trad climber’s crag. Bolts were eventually used, but now there is a small group of climbers pushing the grades using traditional protection. Three years ago, Arnaud Petit climbed Black Bean
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Film: Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on Orbayu

In August 2009, Eneko and Iker Pou made the first ascent of Orbayu 5.14+, 510 m on Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route they’ve climbed. Watch this teaser of the film Orbayu with Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat.  The
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Video: Trotter and Stanhope on The Prophet

Check out this video of Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope during their ascent of the The Prophet 5.13d in Yosemite.
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Film: Belayer to the Stars

Andy Arts lives in Canmore. Few may recognize his name, but he has been an instrumental part of many important sends.  Watch this 15-minute film, which includes cameos from Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard, Sonnie Trotter, Sharon Wood, Kevin Doyle and many more, as Arts takes us on the
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Punks in the Gym, the world’s first 5.14a

Punks in the Gym was the world’s first 8b+ (5.14a). First climbed by Wolfgang Gullich, it stands out as a classic test-piece of our generation. It’s still regarded as an incredibly challenging climb,nearly three decades after the first ascent. The featured image was
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Daila Ojeda Sends a Hard Verdon Route

Daila Ojeda is one of sport climbing’s leading female climbers. Watch as she sends a Verdon 5.14. As Epic TV wrote, “Tom et Je Ris 5.14a is a beautiful endurance climb situated high on the walls of France’s Verdon Gorge. This spectacular setting is one of
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Vid: Pure Imagination

On October 15, 2011 Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of Pure Imagination in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her
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Aquasolo: bold solo over not-so-deep water

Aquasolo is the story of a new route in the sea cliff of Capo Noli ( Finale Ligure, Italy) climbed during the summer 2014 by 2001 Wordl Boulder Champion and E9 clothes owner Mauro Calibani. The route name is “Di buono c’è che con l’innalzamento della temperatura terrestre
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First Ascent of Chukyima Go’s West Face

On Oct. 11 and 12, Domen Kastelic and Sam Hennessey made the first ascent of Chukyima Go 6,259 metres via the West Face. As Kastelic wrote, “Our climbing objective was first ascent on a virgin West Face of Chukyima Go and an actual “first” ascent of the mountain. Nepalese
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Greg Boswell Crushing in North Wales

Greg Boswell and Ally Swinton were invited to be the after-dinner entertainment for the third dry tooling meet at the White Goods in North Wales. During the few warm days Boswell visited White Goods, he onsighted Jaz M8, White Goods M8+, Ready Steady Hook M10. On top of that he
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