Gripped Magazine

International

Watch Tom Randall Climb Hard Kraken

Watch Tom Randall climb his hard roof problem called Kraken V13. Visit Randall’s blog for more on his send: “When I first tried this move I was convinced that my forearm or finger would explode with a loud ‘bang’ if I even tried to put 75 per cent of my
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Nanga Parbat Winter Team Calls it Quits

The Nanga Light team with a Canadian connection have turned around from camp four. In 2015, Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz were only 300 metres from the summit of the 8,126-metre Nanga Parbat when they turned around. They were one of many teams who had attempted the first
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Colin Haley Solos Torre Egger in Patagonia

American alpinist Colin Haley has made a solo ascent of the 2,685-metre Patagonia peak Torre Egger. The ascent comes five years after his first solo of Aguja Standhardt and years of being a cutting-edge alpinist. It took Haley 16-and-a-half hours to climb Torre Egger and he made
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New V16 Climbed by Guillaume Gliaron-Mondet

Guillaume Gliaron-Mondet has reported his first ascent of Le Pied à Coulisse V16 in France. First reported on his blog before EpicTV and 8a.nu interviewed Mondet. The route climbs a direct highball finish to the well-known Chaos V13. It took three years and nearly 30 sessions to
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Americans Visit Scotland and Send

American climbers Josh Wharton, Steve House and Mikey Schaefer visited Scotland at the start of January. Canadians Paul Bride, Marc-Andre Leclerc, Ian Welsted, Paul McSorley, Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz are currently on their way to Scotland for a few weeks of climbing. The
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Watch Solo of Yosemite’s Big Ice Climb!

Vitaliy Musiyenko made the first known solo of the 300-metre Widow’s Tears WI5 in Yosemite at the start of 2016. The ice route rarely forms and was first climbed by Mark Chapman and Kevin Worrall over three days in 1975. Musiyenko has made a number of trips to Canada. In
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Nathan Kutcher Onsights a Colorado M12+

Nathan Kutcher has reported about his onsight of a hard mixed route in Ouray. A number of Canadians have made the trip to Colorado to compete in the upcoming Ouray Ice Festival, arguable North America’s most popular ice climbing event.. Kutcher, who won the Ouray Ice Fest
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Reinhold Messner Talks About Scary Slab

Watch as Reinhold Messner talks about a now-famous slab on Mittelpfeiler in the Dolomites. Messner first climbed the difficult slab with his brother, Gunther, in 1968. It was one of the most difficult pitches in the area at the time.
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Patagonia, Psycho Vertical and a Second Ascent

Psycho Vertical on Torre Egger was first climbed nearly three decades ago. Korra Pesce reported on social media that he and four others made the impressive second ascent of the 1986 route. At the 2015 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, famous climber Simone Moro said that the
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Edu Marin is on a Roll With More 5.15s

Over a decade ago, Edu Marin was the Youth World Champion and a few years later won nearly ever Lead World Cup in a season. Edu Marin has climbed Seleciion Anal 5.15a in Santa Linya. The hard Spain route was first climbed in 2013 by Ramon Julian Puigblanque. Marin sent his first
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