Gripped Magazine

International

Watch Seb Bouin Send Hard Orsay Roof Problem

Seb Bouin made the second ascent of Remy Bergasse’s l’intégrale du toît d’Orsay at toît d’Orsay (Orsay roof) near Paris, France, last fall. L’intégrale du toît d’Orsay is the result of linking two Jacky Godoffe problems from 15 years ago. In
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Will Mayo’s New Warhawk is M14

Watch Will Mayo send his new link-up in East Vail, it climbs the first 25 meters of The Mustang M14- roof into Red Beard M12 to a crux finish on one-arm lock-offs on thin ice. “This is the most challenging and the most exciting sport mixed climb I have ever done.”
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Young-Hye Kwon Sends Difficult Sport Routes in China

Young-Hye Kwon has climbed a number of difficult 5.14s in the The White Mountains of Yangshuo, China. Last winter, Korean climber Young-Hye climbed the hardest mixed routes in the world at the time with sends of Kamasutra D13+ in Italy, Dechette D14 in France, Steel Koan M13+ in
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Watch Hard Barefoot Bouldering with Charles Albert

Charles Albert is 18 and has been sending difficult Fontainebleau routes for years. Watch Albert send hard boulders up to 8C (V15) without any climbing shoes.
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Watch Top Three Sport Climbing Videos of 2015

There were dozens of high-quality films in 2015, here at the top three by EpicTV. One is Gaz Parry on Supersonico 5.14, another is Dani Andrada and Edu Marin on Chilam Balam and the third is Stefano Ghisolfi on Italy’s first 5.15b.
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Top Canadian Sends of 2015

Here is a short list of some of the big sends that made headlines in 2015. Canadians crushed in 2015, from alpine and big-wall climbing to cragging and bouldering they aimed high, and more than once made international headlines for sends in Canada and abroad. We are lucky that
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Watch Josh Wharton’s First Ascent of Hard Winter Route

Josh Wharton is based in Estes Park, a small Colorado town near Rocky Mountain National Park. Watch this video by John Dickey of Wharton climbing a new mixed route up on Dragon’s Tail Spire that Wharton called Twin Dragons M7. BD athlete Josh Wharton making the first ascent
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A New 5.15a on Christmas Day

Austrian climber Roland Hemetzberger reported that he sent a new 5.15a on Christmas Day at the Austrian crag Achleiten. On Facebook, Hemetzberger reported that he made the first ascent of a 20-year project, “For sure the hardest climb I’ve ever done and it’s a
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Not Santa’s Chimney: The Harding Slot

The Harding Slot is one of North America’s most famous squeeze pitches. It is one of the most feared sections of 5.11 climbing in Yosemite. To climb Astroman 5.11c on Washington Column, you have to battle the Harding Slot. For beta, visit this Supertopo forum.
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Canadians Continue Sending Down South

Hueco seems to be the place to be this winter as more Canadians get early season sends. About a week ago, Simon Parton sent Terremer V15, which you can watch here. Over the past few days, he has sent A Good Day For Swiss Crisp Mix V10 and Dead Serious V10. Josh Muller and Regan
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