Gripped Magazine

International

Wacka Flocka, 5.14b

Emily Harrington has climbed 8,000-metre peaks and sent 5.14s. Here is her story about sending her hardest route to date, Wacka Flocka. “Climbing isn’t about the success, or even the failure, rather all the in-betweens. It’s about the process of facing yourself and seeing a
Read More

Josh Muller Sends Red Rocks V13

Canadian Boulderer Continues Hot Streak Late December, 2013, Josh Muller sent one of Red Rocks testpiece boulder problems in Gateway Canyon, Meadowlark Lemon, V13. The route has had less than 10 ascents. On 8a.nu, Muller wrote, “Great line. Really touchy. I did the short
Read More

Is Not Always Pasqua, Third Ascent

James Pearson made the first ground-up and third overall ascent of Is Not Always Pasqua? E9, 7a, at Collina di Interprete in Central Italy. Pearson’s ascent was the first placing all gear on lead.  Mauro Calibani climbed the route in 2002. The route has had one other
Read More

Midnight Lightning

Midnight Lightning is a bouldering problem on the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4 of Yosemite National Park. It has been described as the world’s most famous bouldering problem. The first ascent was by Ron Kauk in 1978 and the first female ascent was by Lynn Hill in 1998. The
Read More

Video: Thug Life

Rad little reel titled Thug Life, by Adam Cutler. Thug Life from Andy Cutler on Vimeo.
Read More

Unclimbed, The Routes That Keep Us Dreaming

Everyone has a project, here are six that have caught the world’s attention. There are more climbers than ever heading to the hills, searching out old classics, sending new testpieces and pushing the limits on cutting edge projects. From the hardest sport route to the
Read More

Cascade de l’Oule, WI5+, France

“I’ve been ice climbing around Grenoble for almost 20 years, and for at least 10 years I’ve been dreaming of the day when the waterfalls that flow down off the Saint-Hilaire du Touvet plateau would freeze up. In 2001 a cold spell allowed us to climb a number of
Read More

The Rail, V14

After twenty years of attempts, The Rail, V14, was worked, worked again and finally climbed by Dan Varian. The Rail at Bowden Doors, Northumberland had been a project for two decades. In 2011, Dan Varian first looked at the bouldering project and began working it. After two years
Read More

Sardinia Blocs

Sardinia is not only a magical land but also a climber’s paradise – with lots and lots of rock, the majority of which is still unexplored. In the collective imagination the region is a sea of limestone, but in fact, it’s the amount of granite that most people
Read More

Thriller Boulder, V9+

Camp 4 in Yosemite has a number of classic problems, this is one. Thriller, V9+, was first climbed in 1984 by Ron Kauk. Friends for Life by Ron Kauk Jerry Moffat, one of my best friends, from England, describes granite as the God’s rock. And this really comes through on
Read More