Gripped Magazine

International

Sardinia Blocs

Sardinia is not only a magical land but also a climber’s paradise – with lots and lots of rock, the majority of which is still unexplored. In the collective imagination the region is a sea of limestone, but in fact, it’s the amount of granite that most people
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Thriller Boulder, V9+

Camp 4 in Yosemite has a number of classic problems, this is one. Thriller, V9+, was first climbed in 1984 by Ron Kauk. Friends for Life by Ron Kauk Jerry Moffat, one of my best friends, from England, describes granite as the God’s rock. And this really comes through on
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First Drytool Route in Korea, Black Eagle, M13

On December 1st, Young-hye Kwon made the first ascent of Black Eagle, M13, Jobi, Mount Korea. The route was attempted last year. This year, with newly modified tools, Kwon sent the route. It seems modified tools have trickled out of the competition world and onto the rock. First
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Nathan Kutcher Sends Inglorious Bastards, M12

Nathan Kutcher is in Montana for the Bozeman Ice Fest where his first order of business was to send Inglorious Bastards, M12. “It was cool and inspiring that this particular style of route was natural (nothing was drilled to enhance the route.) Some may think that routes at
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New Dolomite Route, Ghost Dog

Jeff Mercier and Corrada Pesce climbed a new route up the west face of Sasso Pordoi, Ghost Dog, M5R, WI6+, 800 m. It took the pair two days to climb the impressive line. For more info, check out Pesce’s blog. All photo are copyright to Jeff Mercier/Corrado Pesce  
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Boswell on The Demon

Greg Boswell, who recently spent a few weeks in Canada with Nick Bullock on a sending train, just climbed the first winter ascent of The Demon, IX/9, on the Happy Tyrolean’s Wall, with Douglass Russell.  From Boswell’s blog: I eventually committed to a super thin pick
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Patagonia Season Begins with New Routes

Impressive start to season in Patagonia American alpinist Colin Haley, along with Canadian Sarah Hart, have climbed a new route on Aguja Volonqui, 2,200 m, named El Lobito, 400 m, AI4+, M5, A0.  In November 2013, Italians  Tomas Franchini and Francesco Salvaterra climbed a
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Winter on Nanga Parbat, the Race for the Summit

Nanga Parbat, 8,126 m, is the ninth highest mountain in the world. Two teams have announced they will be attempting to climb the “Killer Mountain” this winter via the Schell Route. Nanga Parbat is one of two 8,000 m peaks that has not been climbed in winter, the other
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Ondra Sends Another 5.15c

Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 5.15c,a line he bolted five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic. Ondra wrote on 8a.nu: “Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on a super cold sticky day, it felt
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China Jam on Kyzyl Asker’s South Pillar

A climb that has resulted in what promises to be one of the best films of the year: China Jam
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