Gripped Magazine

International

Rocklands: a trad diary by James Pearson and Caroline Ciavalidini

In June 2014, Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson set off to discover trad In Rocklands. Originally in search of hard, “cutting edge” new routes, what the couple discovered is perhaps even more valuable! An almost unlimited potential for Trad development, with 1,000’s of new
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Sasha DiGiulian makes another first female ascent

Sasha DiGiulian has made the first female ascent of Thanatopsis 5.14b at Red River Gorge in Kentucky. DiGiulian reported on social media, “My project is complete. After failing to send this climb last March, I returned this week and did the first female ascent of
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First Female Ascent in Oliana

On Saturday Nov. 1, Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra clipped the anchors on Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ (5.14a). The famous tufa route was downgraded from 5.14b after being onsighted by by Chris Sharma and Maja Vidmar. Taistra became the first female to climb the route and said,
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Film: Desert Ice

Jesse Huey, Scott Adamson, Angela VanWiemeersch and Pete Takeda climb ice in Zion National Park.  In the spring of 2014, Huey traveled to Utah, but not for cracks, “Having traveled to Zion four times previously for world-class finger crack climbing, it never crossed my mind
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Gabriele Moroni repeats Italian test-piece

In 2010, 17-year-old Adam Ondra established Goldrake 5.15a. In October, 2014 the route was finally repeated. Gabriele Moroni projected the route longer than he’d ever projected a route before. The 27-year-old has climbed 12 5.14ds and this is his second 5.15a. Moroni
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Mick Fowler Climbs New Himalaya Route

Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of the northeast face Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya. Last year, the pair climbed the 6,451-metre peak Kishtwar Kailash. The mountain lies in a remote valley and is the highest peak in East Kishtwar. Fowler and Ramsden
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Alex Megos, Sonic Kaboom!

Alex Megos is proving time and time again that he is one of the world’s leading sport climbers. On Oct. 22, Megos nabbed the first ascent of Sonic Kaboom 5.14d in the Germany’s Frankenjura. Having attempted the route before his recent trip to Greece, conditions were
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Film: Killer Slope

April 2014, a Dutch expedition starts to climb Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world, when all hell breaks loose. Filmmaker and investigative journalist Geertjan Lassche closely follows the group on their way up to top. What drives these people? How ruthless do you
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Hard Trad Down Under

Andrew Cubbon climbed Augmentium 5.13+, the hardest trad climb in Australia’s Tasmania. Get a Dog Up Ya Productions filmed Squib Cubbon of the Isle of Man climbing a new hard crack (the hardest in Tasmania) at the Star Factory at Freycinet. Climbing Augmentium took 15 days
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The Cosmic Boulder

Beau Stuart has been getting after at the Channel in the Southern Idaho with countless first ascents. One of his most recent discoveries, The Cosmic Boulder, is one of his greatest finds yet in the Channel. The location, holds, and moves on this beautiful piece of rock could
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