Gripped Magazine

International

Film: Belayer to the Stars

Andy Arts lives in Canmore. Few may recognize his name, but he has been an instrumental part of many important sends.  Watch this 15-minute film, which includes cameos from Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard, Sonnie Trotter, Sharon Wood, Kevin Doyle and many more, as Arts takes us on the
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Punks in the Gym, the world’s first 5.14a

Punks in the Gym was the world’s first 8b+ (5.14a). First climbed by Wolfgang Gullich, it stands out as a classic test-piece of our generation. It’s still regarded as an incredibly challenging climb,nearly three decades after the first ascent. The featured image was
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Daila Ojeda Sends a Hard Verdon Route

Daila Ojeda is one of sport climbing’s leading female climbers. Watch as she sends a Verdon 5.14. As Epic TV wrote, “Tom et Je Ris 5.14a is a beautiful endurance climb situated high on the walls of France’s Verdon Gorge. This spectacular setting is one of
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Vid: Pure Imagination

On October 15, 2011 Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of Pure Imagination in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her
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Aquasolo: bold solo over not-so-deep water

Aquasolo is the story of a new route in the sea cliff of Capo Noli ( Finale Ligure, Italy) climbed during the summer 2014 by 2001 Wordl Boulder Champion and E9 clothes owner Mauro Calibani. The route name is “Di buono c’è che con l’innalzamento della temperatura terrestre
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First Ascent of Chukyima Go’s West Face

On Oct. 11 and 12, Domen Kastelic and Sam Hennessey made the first ascent of Chukyima Go 6,259 metres via the West Face. As Kastelic wrote, “Our climbing objective was first ascent on a virgin West Face of Chukyima Go and an actual “first” ascent of the mountain. Nepalese
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Greg Boswell Crushing in North Wales

Greg Boswell and Ally Swinton were invited to be the after-dinner entertainment for the third dry tooling meet at the White Goods in North Wales. During the few warm days Boswell visited White Goods, he onsighted Jaz M8, White Goods M8+, Ready Steady Hook M10. On top of that he
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Watch Angela Eiter Send an Italian 5.14

Angela Eiter is not only Austria’s strongest female climber, she is the best female lead competition climber in history. The 28-year-old, who was born in Arzl im Pitztal, Austria has been making headlines since she was a teenager. With four lead world champion titles to her name,
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New Black Canyon Route

In October, Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner and Josh Wharton climbed a new 14-pitch 5.12 in the Black Canyon of Gunnison. Wharton said of the route, “The first 5.12 pitch is one of the coolest, most unique pitches in the Black. The route climbs relatively long, because it
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Ryan Vachon Repeats M14

As temps drop across North America, dedicated winter climbers prepare for ice and mixed climbing. Some climbers are in top form and have already sent their hardest M routes to date. One of those climbers is Boulder, Colorado-based Ryan Vachon. The 42-year-old made a name for
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