Gripped Magazine

International

Video: Climbing a Steep Ice Climb With Hands Only

In 2011, Salvador Morales climbed the ice climb Meschuge WI6 100 metres in Ötztal, Austria without using any ice axes. “Yes, yes, no axes! What should we call it? No tooling? Naked ice?” said Morales after the ascent. “I used no axes and climbed the stalactites,
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Paul McSorley and Jesse Huey’s Big New Norway Ice Route

Canadians Jon Walsh and Paul McSorley were among a few of the world’s top ice climbers, including Jesse Huey, who visited Norway’s Senja Island in February. The climbers sampled some of the island’s biggest mixed routes including Finnammen M9+ and Finnkona WI6+.
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Chris Sharma Sends New 5.15b/c

Chris Sharma has done it again, proving he is still one of the world’s strongest sport climbers. On March 7, Sharma made the first ascent of El Bon Combat 5.15b/c. He described the route as the The “King Line.” El Bon Combat is located at Cova de Ocell, about 40
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Nalle Hukkataival Sends Historic Fontainebleau Route

Nalle Hukkataival is one of the world’s strongest climbers, if not the strongest. His determination to make the second ascent of a bouldering problem in Fontainebleau has been rewarded with a second ascent. The problem was fist climbed in 1997 by Marc Le Menestrel. Some
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Vid: Giorgia Tesio Climbs V11 in Italy

Giorgia Tesio has done Alphacentaury V11 in Varazze, Italy. Three months ago the 14-year-old did her first V12. Watch this great video by Christian Core. More on Giorgia Tesio Giorgia Tesio – Alphacentaury (Standing Start) – Varazze from CoreFamily on Vimeo. Learn
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Watch a New V6 Being Climbed in Germany

Jaume Garcia has cleaned and climbed a new V6 in Bahratal, Germany. Check out some of Bahratal’s problems on Sendage.
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Big New Ice Route in Montana

Scott Coldiron and Christian Thompson have climbed a big new ice route in the Cabinet Range of Montana. Coldiron and Thompson climbed Black Well Falls WI5 M4 300 metres over the weekend. “To my knowledge, it’s the biggest steep, pure ice route in this little
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Alex Johnson Sends Her Project The Swoop

The strong American boulderer Alex Johnson has sent her Red Rocks project and called it The Swoop. Alex Johnson wrote on her Facebook page: “The Swoop is a project no more. I stuck this move for the first time ever on Friday and took it to the top. This was my baby, I found
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Ines Papert Repeats Hard Scottish Route

Ines Papert is perhaps the world’s best known German ice climber. She recently made the first female ascent of a very hard route in Scotland called The Hurting. Papert was in Scotland to speak at the Fort William Mountain Festival. Fresh off a repeat of Ritter der Kokonuss,
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Mike Doyle Sends Necessary Evil

Canadian Mike Doyle has sent his longtime project Necessary Evil. He becomes one of the fest climbers to redpoint one of the countries oldest 5.14cs. Doyle is one of Canada’s strongest sport climbers. Sending 5.14 for nearly two decades, Doyle’s long term projects were Necessary
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