Gripped Magazine

International

McColl Sends Meadowlark Lemon Sit Start

Sean McColl has sent Meadowlark Lemon Sit, V14. Paul Robinson made the first ascent in 2012, two year after he established the stand start. The route has been repeated a number of times by Dave Graham, Carlo Traversi, Niccolò Ceria, James Webb, Daniel Woods and others. Originally
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Norway Ice

Watch as climbers explore beautiful Norway ice over four days. Setesdal Ice – Jan 2014 from Simon McCalla on Vimeo.
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Jared’s Roof

Castle Rock, Jared’s Roof, V8 Jared’s Roof v8 from Carrie Cooper on Vimeo.
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Slovak Direct, Denali

At the end of June this year Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made a rare ascent, sixth overall, of the Slovak Direct on the nearly 3,000 m South Face of Denali, 6,194 m, in Alaska.
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Kor/Ingalls Route on Castleton Tower

Castleton Tower is one of Utah’s most memorable climbs.
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Climbing News

Here is what’s making headlines from the world of climbing. Ralf Dujmovits will Return to Everest In December 2013, Ralf Dujmovits was at the base of the Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat with plans to climb to do the first winter ascent of the peak. With worsening weather,
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40th Anniversary of Cerro Torre First Ascent

January 13, 1974, first ascent of Ragni Route. In 1959, Cesare Maestri said he and Toni Egger had reached the summit and that Egger had been swept to his death by an avalanche while they were descending. The lack of proof such as bolts, pitons or fixed ropes has led most climbers
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Video: Bachar Solos Leave it to Beaver

Vintage film of John Bachar soloing Joshua Tree’s Leave it to Beaver, 5.12a.  The first ascent was by Dave Evans and Jim Angione in January 1978 and freed by Bachar in March of the same year on top-rope.  Bachar lead the route the following year.
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Nick Bullock and Friends Climb New Routes

January 2014, New routes on Creag an Dubh Loch Nick Bullock lit a match under Canadian’s when he and Greg Boswell visited in the October 2013. They climbed a number of Rockies testpieces such as Rocket Man and Man Yoga. Since returning to Europe, the pair have continued to
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First Winter Ascent of Turkish on Ben Nevis

January conditions are prime for first and second winter ascents in Scotland. For more new Scottish routes, see here. Turkish Malcolm Bass and Simon Yearsley have made the first winter ascent of Turkish, VII, 7, on Ben Nevis. “Steep corners with exits on good ice.
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