Gripped Magazine

Routes

Dolomites New Evolution

Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan added difficult mixed finish to an ice route in the Dolomites. Their Evolution is a new 120 m WI 5+, M9+ that is protected with pitons, no bolts.
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Squamish’s Angry Beaver

The Squamish classic Split Beaver, 5.10b, has humbled many wanna-be off-width climbers. Mike Hengeveled summed it up, “My off-widthing started with a climb called Split Beaver. In the local climbing circle, it had a reputation as a hard climb, it is steep, sustained,
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Arizona’s Air France

Jonathan Siegrist added a new route Verdon-esque route to The Strip in Northern Arizon. Siegrist says the route is, “A true gem – I’m shocked that it was left untouched for so long. Here’s an amazing Keith Ladzinski image of Whitney Boland crushing Vesper
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La Dura Dura Complete

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra spent two years working together to climb La Dura Dura, 5.15c / 9b+, the world’s hardest climb. This film tells the story of their unique collaboration and shows Ondra’s historic first ascent and Sharma’s second ascent.
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Squamish Tree Thinning

Are you wondering why trees are missing around some of your favourite Smoke Bluff climbs? Don’t worry, it is not aggressive route cleaning. B.C. Hydro went to work on hydro poles in and around the Smoke Bluffs and the Apron, clearing trees and bush to access work sites. The
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Video: McColl on Meadowlark Lemon, V14

During a road trip in early 2014, Sean McColl sent one of North America’s hardest boulder problems when he climbed Meadowlark Lemon. For the full story, see here.
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Two New Routes in Europe

Here are two routes that have made the headlines on Planet Mountain this week. The Ring of Life, 5.14d/5.15a Silvio Reffo made the first ascent of the 55 move route at Covolo, Italy. ”The ring of life is a classic examples of seeming impossible: at first I could hardly do
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Trotter Takes to the Tools

The Candlestick Maker is in the Ghost, near Orient Point, just above Hidden Dragon and to the right of The Joker/Hooker. A short technical pillar pouring over an impressively large cave, followed by a longer second pitch of steep ice. Last weekend, Sonnie Trotter and Andy Arts
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HP40 Moderates

Alabama’s famous bouldering area, watch as climbers tackle Genesis v3, Man With a Slow Hand v4, Popeye v5, Hammerhead v5, Stepchild v6, and The Thief v7.  
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Into the Light, Episode One

Into the light, Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma’s secret climb. This crazy climb is shaping up to be a unique thrill ride for the two legends giving it a go. Stefan Glowacz is one of the first legends of modern rock climbing. Chris Sharma is said by many to be one of the best
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