Gripped Magazine

Routes

Alex Huber’s new hard route

On Sept. 18, 2014 Alexander Huber and Michi Althammer made the first free ascent of Wetterbock on Wetterbockwand’s Goll East Face in Austria’s Berchtesgaden Alps. Huber reports he’s climbed one of the more demanding alpine routes he’s sent. The 1,000-metre
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New Bugaboos Route by Olson and McAllister

Jen Olson and Tim McAllister have established a new route on the South Howser Tower. The great weather has led to excellent autumn conditions in the alpine. Olson and McAllister climbed Ethereal D+ 320 m M6 WI4R on Oct. 10, 2014. The new route climbs a nearly direct line up the
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Sasha DiGiulian is first female to climb this 300-metre 5.14

Sasha DiGiulian teamed up with Edu Marin to become the first woman to climb Viaje de los Locos 5.14a in Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia, Italy. The seven-pitch sport route was first climbed by Dani Andrada and Daniel Du Lac and means The Madman’s Journey. Full report from Red
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Vid: Ode to Arapiles

Ontario’s sandstone crag of Pass Lake near The Sleeping Giant Provincial Park has nearly 100 routes up to 5.12. During the 1980s, climbers either top-roped the easy routes or took to climbing the obvious cracks with protection. In the late 90s, a few bolts were added to a
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Angy Eiter and her Austrian Hercules

Angela Eiter is not only Austria’s strongest female climber, she is the best female lead competition climber in history. The 28-year-old, who was born in Arzl im Pitztal, Austria has been making headlines since she was a teenager. With four lead world champion titles to her
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New boulders at Devil’s Lake

Ian Cotter-Brown took advantage of some nice fall weather to climb a couple of first ascents at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wyoming. “With the perfect fall weather, I managed to put down a couple projects out at Devil’s Lake State Park yesterday,” said
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North Face of Pizzo Arera

Pizzo Arera is a 2,512-metre peak in the Bergamo Alps of northern Italy. Watch this short film by Claudio Capitanio about climbing the north face. The route was first climbed in 1931 by G.B. Cortez, E. Goria, P.A. Rigoli on Aug. 30. More on the area Route description (in Italian)
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Fall in the Bugaboos: Alpine mixed!

The Bugaboos in eastern B.C. had one of their busiest summers and it seems the rush isn’t over yet. Bryce Brown, Juan Henriquez and Jorge Ackermann recently climbed Perma Grin M5, WI4R, D+ on the South Howser Tower. Brown wrote on his social media, “The route
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Tying the Knot: a rockin’ wedding

Brian and Mandy left their home on bicycles and rode 30 km, hiked into the Cirque of the Towers in Wyoming’s Wind River Range about 40 km, climbed the northeast face of Pingora Peak, got married and reversed the approach. On their wedding day they were awake and moving for
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Vid: Norway’s Eye of Odin

Watch Ben Davison climb his first 5.14+, The Eye of Odin in Flatanger, Norway. Climbing in Flatanger Adam Ondra’s Illusionist
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