Gripped Magazine

Routes

Brette Harrington Repeats Historical Californian 5.13+ Crack

Brette Harrington spends most of her time in Squamish, but the American climber is no stranger to other world-class areas including Patagonia and Yosemite. She recently made a likely second-female-ascent of a California classic. Two weeks ago, Harrington sent Grand Illusion, the
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Proud New Line on the Mooses Tooth

Canadian Alik Berg and American Skiy Detray are returning to their respected homes on either side of the border after a team effort bagged them a proud new line in Alaska. Berg and Detray made headlines this year when they made the second winter ascent of the Greenwood/Locke M6
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Japanese Team Climbs Mount Temple’s Snowy North Face

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani are Japanese climbers currently based in the Canadian Rockies.  The two alpinists have been making quick work of some of the area’s most classic big alpine routes. A few weeks ago, they made a rare ascent of The Wild Thing 1,300 m M7 WI5 on
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Watch Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee Climb in South America

Watch Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee make the second and third free ascent of the Sifuentes – Monti route at Frey, Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina. Nicolas Favresse made the first free ascent in 2011 and graded it 5.13a. The route has been freed a number of times now.
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Dai Koyamada Sends Longtime Project

Japanese climber, Dai Koyamada, has climbed a mega project Mount Hiei that he was introduced to three years ago. Koyamada, 38, reported on his blog (in Japanese) that the climb follow a steep crack in a granite boulder that is followed by a five-metre slab. He is yet to grade or
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James Lucas Sends Difficult El Cap Route

American climber James Lucas, who’s been called the last real dirtbag, has sent Freerider on El Cap 5.12d, 37 pitches. James Lucas has been attempting Freerider since 2011 and announced on his Instagram that he sent the classic El Cap free route in less than 15 hours. Over
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British Columbia’s Roche Lake Gets Hard New Route

The Roche Lake wall is a great crag near Roche Lake in the Kamloops area and it features the hardest climbs around Kamloops. Roche Lake has dozens of high-quality routes on steep rock. Local Pat Campbell, who spends most of his time bouldering, recently sent one of his roped
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Americans Climb Yamnuska Test-Piece: Blue Jeans 5.13

Americans Josh Wharton and Hayden Kennedy climb Yamnuska’s Blue Jeans 5.13. Wharton had visited the steep Yamnuska route twice before, but it was Kennedy’s first go. Neither climber is a stranger to the Canadian Rockies as both have ticked a number of the area’s
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Chris Sharma Onsights 5.14b in Spain

Chris Sharma is one of the world’s most accomplished climbers with sends of the some of the most difficult routes in the sport. He recently onsighted a 5.14b in Catalonia, Spain. “It’s been great to just go with the flow these days,” said Sharma on his
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The Route: Hot Fuzz and Sharknado on Kanga South

The Canadian Rockies have more stone than climbers know what to do with. You only needs to stand on a summit and look in any direction to know there’s lifetimes of new routes. Sometimes, however, you need only step out of the car to find new lines. Gripped editor Brandon
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