Gripped Magazine

Routes

Watch Some Wicked Pocket Climbing on a 5.15a

Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated a 2009 Chris Sharma route in Margalef, Spain called Demencia Senil 5.15a. After Sharma’s first ascent Iker Pou and Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the second and third ascents in 2010. After six days of work, Ghisolfi was able to
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New Moderate Rockies Multi-Pitch Route

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies regular new-routers and his new moderate looks like a must-climb. The route is on a 150-metre band of rock across from the Mosquito Creek hostel on the Icefields Parkway. Mills teams up with Steph Kish on July 9 for their first ascent of
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Karakorum Storm: Death on Broad Peak and K2 Climbers Stalled

It is summit-push season in the high Karakorum and while climbers approach the tops of Broad Peak and K2, a storm is wreaking havoc. Heavy snows and warm temperatures are to blame for a recent avalanche below Camp 1 on Broad Peak that injured several climbers and took the life of
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Brette Harrington Makes Third Free Ascent of Edge of Pan!

Squamish-based crusher Brette Harrington has made the third ascent and first female ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief. The Edge of Pan was first free-climbed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. One week ago, Harrington and American climber Jesse Huey rappelled in for
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Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel Repeat Old Swiss Route

Swiss climber Nina Caprez and French climber Marc le Menestrel have climbed Hannibals Alptraum in the Ratikon Mountains of Switzerland. The difficult route was first climbed in 1986 by Martin Scheel and Robert Bosch and ascends to the right of the popular hard route called
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Aerial Footage of a Bugaboo Classic

Luke Humphrey’s most recent online film is a nicely produced video of the classic Bugaboo route, the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. Considered “the best 5.4 in the world,” the B.C. route gets dozens of ascents every season. The 500-metre-long ridge has sticky
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Vikki Weldon Sends Hard Squamish Crack

Vikki Weldon has climbed her hardest gear climb to date with her send of Adder Crack. On Fri. July 17, Vikki pieced together the difficult moves of one of Squamish’s 5.13a cracks called Adder Crack, and joined a small group of Canadian women who have sent a 5.13 gear climb.
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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Evan Hau Sends Hard New Rockies Route

The Canadian Rockies have thousands of sport routes, but with so much untouched rock it’s easy to find new and esthetic routes close to home. Calgary-based crusher Evan Hau recently found a new wall to develop and called it the Apocalypse Cave. The first route Hau developed
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Watch a Squamish V10 Send

Tomasz Wojtkowiak has been spending the better part of the summer in Squamish sending a number of classics. Wojtkowiak recently sent No Toublems V10 in the Grand Wall Boulders. The problem is one of the most popular V10s on the West Coast and receives a number of sends every
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