Gripped Magazine

Routes

New boulders at Devil’s Lake

Ian Cotter-Brown took advantage of some nice fall weather to climb a couple of first ascents at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wyoming. “With the perfect fall weather, I managed to put down a couple projects out at Devil’s Lake State Park yesterday,” said
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North Face of Pizzo Arera

Pizzo Arera is a 2,512-metre peak in the Bergamo Alps of northern Italy. Watch this short film by Claudio Capitanio about climbing the north face. The route was first climbed in 1931 by G.B. Cortez, E. Goria, P.A. Rigoli on Aug. 30. More on the area Route description (in Italian)
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Fall in the Bugaboos: Alpine mixed!

The Bugaboos in eastern B.C. had one of their busiest summers and it seems the rush isn’t over yet. Bryce Brown, Juan Henriquez and Jorge Ackermann recently climbed Perma Grin M5, WI4R, D+ on the South Howser Tower. Brown wrote on his social media, “The route
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Tying the Knot: a rockin’ wedding

Brian and Mandy left their home on bicycles and rode 30 km, hiked into the Cirque of the Towers in Wyoming’s Wind River Range about 40 km, climbed the northeast face of Pingora Peak, got married and reversed the approach. On their wedding day they were awake and moving for
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Vid: Norway’s Eye of Odin

Watch Ben Davison climb his first 5.14+, The Eye of Odin in Flatanger, Norway. Climbing in Flatanger Adam Ondra’s Illusionist
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Fred Nicole’s recent send

Fred Nicole was the world’s leading boulderer through the 90s. In 2014, he’s still climbing at the top of his game. In 1996, Nicole made the first ascent of Radja in Switzerland, considered the first V14. He continued to climb strong and made the first ascent of
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New Dolomite Route (looks thin!)

Maurizio Zanolla has freed Pinne Gialle (Yellow Fin,) a new four-pitch route on Tognazza in Italy’s Dolomites. The Tognazza wall has a number of weaknesses that had been climbed, but the blank wall called to Zanolla to climb it. The route climbs through the lower wall on an
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Caroline Ciavaldini climbs Requiem E8

Italian climber Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Requiem E8 at Dumbarton Rock and adds to her growing list of hard trad redpoints. Requiem was climbed in 1983 by Dave Cuthbertson. At the time it was one of the hardest rock climbs in the world at the time. It follows a crackline
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New 10-pitch route near Golden B.C.

New route in B.C. will certainly draw climbers east of the divide and from near-by Golden. Andrea Eitle and Cody Lank have completed a new 10-pitch 5.11 called Gorman Gold. The crux is 5.11b and takes a direct line up an aesthetic tower and links into an upper corner system
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Gasherbrum V: climbed at last

The remote Gasherbrum range peak was one of the last unclimbed challenges in the region. On July 25, two Korean climbers stood on top of the 7,147-metre peak. Nak-jong Seong and Chi-young Ahn arrived at basecamp in early summer. After attempting the north face they changed plans
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