Gripped Magazine

Routes

Trad Resurgence at Céüse

Believe it or not, the world-class sport climbing destination Céüse started as a trad climber’s crag. Bolts were eventually used, but now there is a small group of climbers pushing the grades using traditional protection. Three years ago, Arnaud Petit climbed Black Bean
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Nathan Kutcher Climbs Hard New Quebec Route

Nathan Kutcher is no stranger to headlines. He has established a number of hard ice, mixed and drytooling routes. He competes on the world stage at the UIAA ice climbing world cup. Last year, Kutcher spent three days in St. Alban and onsighted three M10s. St. Alban is an all
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Film: Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on Orbayu

In August 2009, Eneko and Iker Pou made the first ascent of Orbayu 5.14+, 510 m on Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain which they describe as their most important route they’ve climbed. Watch this teaser of the film Orbayu with Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat.  The
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Video: Trotter and Stanhope on The Prophet

Check out this video of Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope during their ascent of the The Prophet 5.13d in Yosemite.
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Film: Belayer to the Stars

Andy Arts lives in Canmore. Few may recognize his name, but he has been an instrumental part of many important sends.  Watch this 15-minute film, which includes cameos from Will Gadd, Barry Blanchard, Sonnie Trotter, Sharon Wood, Kevin Doyle and many more, as Arts takes us on the
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Punks in the Gym, the world’s first 5.14a

Punks in the Gym was the world’s first 8b+ (5.14a). First climbed by Wolfgang Gullich, it stands out as a classic test-piece of our generation. It’s still regarded as an incredibly challenging climb,nearly three decades after the first ascent. The featured image was
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Two New Bold Winter Routes on Remote Peak

The Canadian Rockies have had an unusually low snow fall for November and the result has been stable backcountry conditions. This has allowed keen climbers to find often inaccessible new routes. Jay Mills, owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG), teamed up Steve Holeczi
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Daila Ojeda Sends a Hard Verdon Route

Daila Ojeda is one of sport climbing’s leading female climbers. Watch as she sends a Verdon 5.14. As Epic TV wrote, “Tom et Je Ris 5.14a is a beautiful endurance climb situated high on the walls of France’s Verdon Gorge. This spectacular setting is one of
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Quebec Alpine At Its Best

This film documents the first winter ascent of an aesthetic route, Sens Unique, in the Parc des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, Quebec by climbers Louis Rousseau and Yannick Girard. Sens Unique from Ian on Vimeo.
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Miles Adamson’s Project

Here is Miles Adamson’s latest project in Squamish. It is a seated start to Jeremy Smith’s trad route Year of the Snake 5.13b on the Cacodemon. “It adds about 10 moves at V13 to get to the starting crimp of his route, which I nearly linked last session.
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