Gripped Magazine

Routes

Miles Adamson’s Project

Here is Miles Adamson’s latest project in Squamish. It is a seated start to Jeremy Smith’s trad route Year of the Snake 5.13b on the Cacodemon. “It adds about 10 moves at V13 to get to the starting crimp of his route, which I nearly linked last session.
Read More

Vid: Pure Imagination

On October 15, 2011 Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of Pure Imagination in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her
Read More

Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
Read More

Aquasolo: bold solo over not-so-deep water

Aquasolo is the story of a new route in the sea cliff of Capo Noli ( Finale Ligure, Italy) climbed during the summer 2014 by 2001 Wordl Boulder Champion and E9 clothes owner Mauro Calibani. The route name is “Di buono c’è che con l’innalzamento della temperatura terrestre
Read More

First Ascent of Chukyima Go’s West Face

On Oct. 11 and 12, Domen Kastelic and Sam Hennessey made the first ascent of Chukyima Go 6,259 metres via the West Face. As Kastelic wrote, “Our climbing objective was first ascent on a virgin West Face of Chukyima Go and an actual “first” ascent of the mountain. Nepalese
Read More

Greg Boswell Crushing in North Wales

Greg Boswell and Ally Swinton were invited to be the after-dinner entertainment for the third dry tooling meet at the White Goods in North Wales. During the few warm days Boswell visited White Goods, he onsighted Jaz M8, White Goods M8+, Ready Steady Hook M10. On top of that he
Read More

Watch Angela Eiter Send an Italian 5.14

Angela Eiter is not only Austria’s strongest female climber, she is the best female lead competition climber in history. The 28-year-old, who was born in Arzl im Pitztal, Austria has been making headlines since she was a teenager. With four lead world champion titles to her name,
Read More

New Rockies Mixed Route: Warm Wet Comfort

Kris Irwin and Jay Mills have climbed a new one-pitch mixed route above Emerald Lake in the Rockies. Irwin, owner of Rockies Ice and Alpine Specialists, and Mills, owner of Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides, teamed up for the first ascent of this moderate, fun looking mixed route
Read More

New Black Canyon Route

In October, Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner and Josh Wharton climbed a new 14-pitch 5.12 in the Black Canyon of Gunnison. Wharton said of the route, “The first 5.12 pitch is one of the coolest, most unique pitches in the Black. The route climbs relatively long, because it
Read More

Ryan Vachon Repeats M14

As temps drop across North America, dedicated winter climbers prepare for ice and mixed climbing. Some climbers are in top form and have already sent their hardest M routes to date. One of those climbers is Boulder, Colorado-based Ryan Vachon. The 42-year-old made a name for
Read More