Gripped Magazine

Routes

Americans Visit Scotland and Send

American climbers Josh Wharton, Steve House and Mikey Schaefer visited Scotland at the start of January. Canadians Paul Bride, Marc-Andre Leclerc, Ian Welsted, Paul McSorley, Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz are currently on their way to Scotland for a few weeks of climbing. The
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Watch First Ascent of Squamish 5.12

Watch Stu Smith make the first free ascent of a hard route on a new wall at Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. This route is called Magic Crystals 5.12b was established last summer by Ryan McNutt, but wasn’t freed. “The route, although short, is quite good and climbs a
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Short Video of Classic Squamish Boulders

Lloyd King pieced this short video together of some classic boulder sends in Squamish.  Sḵwx̱wú7mesh ~ Bouldering from Lloyd King on Vimeo.
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Watch Solo of Yosemite’s Big Ice Climb!

Vitaliy Musiyenko made the first known solo of the 300-metre Widow’s Tears WI5 in Yosemite at the start of 2016. The ice route rarely forms and was first climbed by Mark Chapman and Kevin Worrall over three days in 1975. Musiyenko has made a number of trips to Canada. In
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Nathan Kutcher Onsights a Colorado M12+

Nathan Kutcher has reported about his onsight of a hard mixed route in Ouray. A number of Canadians have made the trip to Colorado to compete in the upcoming Ouray Ice Festival, arguable North America’s most popular ice climbing event.. Kutcher, who won the Ouray Ice Fest
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New Mixed Route in Quebec

Matt Maddaloni climbed a new mixed route in Quebec at the start of 2016. The esthetic route is at the not-so-popular Sainte Adele and is called Jessica 4 Ever M8.
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Reinhold Messner Talks About Scary Slab

Watch as Reinhold Messner talks about a now-famous slab on Mittelpfeiler in the Dolomites. Messner first climbed the difficult slab with his brother, Gunther, in 1968. It was one of the most difficult pitches in the area at the time.
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Patagonia, Psycho Vertical and a Second Ascent

Psycho Vertical on Torre Egger was first climbed nearly three decades ago. Korra Pesce reported on social media that he and four others made the impressive second ascent of the 1986 route. At the 2015 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, famous climber Simone Moro said that the
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Watch a Winter Send at Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs

There are many climbers on the West Coast who are proving that Canada does have a year-round rock climbing destination. Watch this short film by Stu Smith of Drew Leiterman sending White Rabbit, a 5.10b corner crack. That Route: White rabbit from Stuart Smith on Vimeo.
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Edu Marin is on a Roll With More 5.15s

Over a decade ago, Edu Marin was the Youth World Champion and a few years later won nearly ever Lead World Cup in a season. Edu Marin has climbed Seleciion Anal 5.15a in Santa Linya. The hard Spain route was first climbed in 2013 by Ramon Julian Puigblanque. Marin sent his first
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