Gripped Magazine

Routes

Evan Hau Sends Hard New Rockies Route

The Canadian Rockies have thousands of sport routes, but with so much untouched rock it’s easy to find new and esthetic routes close to home. Calgary-based crusher Evan Hau recently found a new wall to develop and called it the Apocalypse Cave. The first route Hau developed
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Watch a Squamish V10 Send

Tomasz Wojtkowiak has been spending the better part of the summer in Squamish sending a number of classics. Wojtkowiak recently sent No Toublems V10 in the Grand Wall Boulders. The problem is one of the most popular V10s on the West Coast and receives a number of sends every
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Watch David Lama and Conrad Anker Climb New Zion Route

In the spring of 2015, David Lama and Conrad Anker teamed up for a bold ascent of one of Anker’s old projects.  Anker, 52, started the Zion route over 25 years ago with Doug Heinrich and completed it with 24-year-old Lama after four days of work. They called their route
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Steve McClure’s Second Ascent of U.K. Hard Route

British strong-man Steve McClure has made the second ascent of Neil Mawson’s recent E10. On the Sept. 21, 2014, Mawson sent his long-term project called Choronzon at Stack Rocks in Pembroke. With a grade of E10 8b+, the climb became the region’s hardest route. Mawson
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Watch Some Climbing at Smith Rock

Listen to some good tunes and get motivated by the most recent Red Rascal Film about Smith Rock, Oregon’s climbing destination. Smith Rock, OR from Red Rascal Films on Vimeo.
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The New Must-Have Online Lion’s Head Guidebook

Greg Williamson recently uploaded his new guidebook to Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Williamson, 42, is one of Lion’s Head’s most prolific climbers and has established over 20 new routes from 5.9 trad climbs to 5.13b sport routes. Lion’s Head’s steep
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New 5.15 in France by Seb Bouin

French Climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of one of France’s hardest route. The new 5.15a is at Pic Saint-Loup in Montpellier is a variation to Staphylocoque 5.14d/5.15a. Bouin’s route is called Kmira and took the 22-year-old only two weeks of projecting. In
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Jamie Finlayson Sends His Hardest Problem To Date!

Squamish-based climber Jamie Finlayson has sent his first V13 and it was in challenging weather conditions. Finlayson sent Terminator V13 on July 9, despite less-than-perfect atmospheric conditions due to forest fires. After the send, Finlayson wrote, “There are very few
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New Long Moderate Rock Route in Jasper

Alberta’s Bedson Ridge gets a new route on surprisingly solid limestone. Jesse Milner and Ryan Titchener climbed Cypress Hill 5.10bR during the first week of July. The seven-pitch 400-metre route climbs the well-known Bedson Ridge about 50 kilometres east of Jasper.
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Film: Emilio Comici – Angel of the Dolomites

Emilio Comici was an Italian alpinist who pioneered a number of important techniques and routes. During the 1930s, Comici was one of Italy’s finest climbers. He made over 200 first ascents in the Dolomites, including the first ascent of the north face of the Cima Grande in
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