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Routes

Europeans Make First Ascent of Alaska’s Mount Reaper

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the unclimbed Mount Reaper in Alaska by their Sugar Man M7 A1 750 metres route up the north face. Mount Reaper was not only unclimbed, but reportedly unnamed and is on the Pitchfork Glacier near Mount Citadel and Berserker. The
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Mateusz Haladaj is First Polish Climber to Send 5.15!

Mateusz Haladaj is a 29-year-old Polish climber who recently sent his long-time project, Papichulo 5.15a, in Oliana this week. “So happy to climb that beast,” wrote Haladaj on 8a.nu who had climbed eight 5.14ds leading up to the ascent. “The 45 metres of
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Jamie Finlayson Sends Squaminator V12, Watch Here!

Squaminator V12 is part of the North Wall Boulders in Squamish and it’s one of the more popular problems at the grade in the area. Earlier this year, Luke Zimmerman made an ascent and his beta played a role in Jamie Finlayson’s ascent. “Steep and powerful with
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Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Climbs Second 5.14b on Home Soil

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a 28-year-old crusher from Sheffield, England, who has been climbing for 20 years. In 2014, she became the first British woman to climb 5.14b, Mecca Extension at Raven Tor in the Peak District, on U.K. soil. Now, she’s done it again. On May 29, Mina
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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab. Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles
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Gord McArthur Sends Difficult Project At Lakit Lake

Gord McArthur is best known for being a top international competitive mixed climber, but during the summer “off season,” he spends his time sans-tools at his local crag: Lakit Lake. Lakit Lake is one of the many crags around Cranbrook, B.C. where McArthur is based. As
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Alpinist Markus Pucher Solos New Patagonian Line

In April, the strong Austrian climber, Markus Pucher, soloed a new route on a rarely attempted peak near El Chalten. On his Facebook page, Pucher wrote, “New route on West Face of Marconi Sur. Into the Wild 800-metre M5.” The Marconi range were named for Guglielmo
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Quebec’s Difficult New Spring Mixed Route: The Last Ronin

Quebec climbers climb a new route in memory of their friend and accomplished climber, Yannick Girard. By Louis Rousseau The day was perfect, except for the March date: Friday the 13th. We stopped for coffee and cakes in Baie, St. Paul at the bakery. We decided to finish our
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Sebastian Bouin Makes Third Ascent of Famous 5.15b

French climber Seb Bouin has made the third ascent of Chilam Balam 5.15b at Villanueva del Rosario in the Andalusia region of Spain. It’s Bouin’s first 5.15b and the route’s third ascent after Bernabé Fernández in 2003 and Adam Ondra in 2011. The route was
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Watch Finlayson Send the Squaminator Traverse

Jamie Finlayson is one of Canada’s strongest climbers. Watch him on the rarely-climbed Squaminator Traverse V9 that he sent yesterday. “This is one burly traverse,” said Finlayson. “I am going to have to go with V9 for this one. Felt much harder than a V8
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