Gripped Magazine

Routes

Sonnie Trotter attempts to free the North America Wall

The history of big wall free climbing can be witnessed on the walls of Yosemite. Canadian Sonnie Trotter recently tried to add to that history by making the first free ascent of the original North America Wall. The North America Wall was first climbed by Yvon Couinard, Tom Frost,
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Will Stanhope Frees El Cap in a Day

It seems to be big wall season in Yosemite. Despite the short days, a number climbers are heading up El Cap and Half Dome for warm November rock climbing. Will Stanhope and Jesse Huey had been attempting to link El Cap and Half Dome, all free in a day. Early in the morning, they
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Rocklands: a trad diary by James Pearson and Caroline Ciavalidini

In June 2014, Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson set off to discover trad In Rocklands. Originally in search of hard, “cutting edge” new routes, what the couple discovered is perhaps even more valuable! An almost unlimited potential for Trad development, with 1,000’s of new
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Sasha DiGiulian makes another first female ascent

Sasha DiGiulian has made the first female ascent of Thanatopsis 5.14b at Red River Gorge in Kentucky. DiGiulian reported on social media, “My project is complete. After failing to send this climb last March, I returned this week and did the first female ascent of
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New Ontario 5.14 by Joe Skopec

Joe Skopec has established one of Ontario’s hardest sport climbs. The Ontario-based climber sent the route after a few months of projecting it Skopec found and bolted the line in March 2014. After many sessions, he sorted out the crux. “The 20-metre climb breaks down
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First Female Ascent in Oliana

On Saturday Nov. 1, Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra clipped the anchors on Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ (5.14a). The famous tufa route was downgraded from 5.14b after being onsighted by by Chris Sharma and Maja Vidmar. Taistra became the first female to climb the route and said,
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Film: Desert Ice

Jesse Huey, Scott Adamson, Angela VanWiemeersch and Pete Takeda climb ice in Zion National Park.  In the spring of 2014, Huey traveled to Utah, but not for cracks, “Having traveled to Zion four times previously for world-class finger crack climbing, it never crossed my mind
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Gabriele Moroni repeats Italian test-piece

In 2010, 17-year-old Adam Ondra established Goldrake 5.15a. In October, 2014 the route was finally repeated. Gabriele Moroni projected the route longer than he’d ever projected a route before. The 27-year-old has climbed 12 5.14ds and this is his second 5.15a. Moroni
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Mick Fowler Climbs New Himalaya Route

Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of the northeast face Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya. Last year, the pair climbed the 6,451-metre peak Kishtwar Kailash. The mountain lies in a remote valley and is the highest peak in East Kishtwar. Fowler and Ramsden
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Alex Megos, Sonic Kaboom!

Alex Megos is proving time and time again that he is one of the world’s leading sport climbers. On Oct. 22, Megos nabbed the first ascent of Sonic Kaboom 5.14d in the Germany’s Frankenjura. Having attempted the route before his recent trip to Greece, conditions were
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