Gripped Magazine

Routes

Newfoundland’s Huge New Mixed Route: Apocalypse Now

Will Mayo and Anna Pfaff have established one of Canada’s East Coast’s biggest and hardest mixed routes. Apocalypse Now WI7 M9 220 metres was climbed on March 7 after a number of working attempts. The route was an old project of local crusher Joe Terravecchia. Will
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Rarely Formed Rockies Route is Big and Classic

In the northern reaches of the Canadian Rockies is a big ice climb, which has only formed a few times since the first ascent in the late 1990s. Conrad’s Coloumn is a nearly 500-metre ice climb near Mount Robson. Its tiered pitches offer mostly steep climbing with reportedly
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New Traditional Mixed Routes in Quebec

With spring only a few weeks away, it seems the long days are providing perfect conditions for new routing in Quebec. On March 5, Jean Francois Girard and Carl Darveau climbed two new mixed lines in La Vallée Du Bras Du Nord, Québec. By Jean Francois Girard Carl Sent me an email
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Nalle Hukkataival Sends Historic Fontainebleau Route

Nalle Hukkataival is one of the world’s strongest climbers, if not the strongest. His determination to make the second ascent of a bouldering problem in Fontainebleau has been rewarded with a second ascent. The problem was fist climbed in 1997 by Marc Le Menestrel. Some
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Vid: Giorgia Tesio Climbs V11 in Italy

Giorgia Tesio has done Alphacentaury V11 in Varazze, Italy. Three months ago the 14-year-old did her first V12. Watch this great video by Christian Core. More on Giorgia Tesio Giorgia Tesio – Alphacentaury (Standing Start) – Varazze from CoreFamily on Vimeo. Learn
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Watch a New V6 Being Climbed in Germany

Jaume Garcia has cleaned and climbed a new V6 in Bahratal, Germany. Check out some of Bahratal’s problems on Sendage.
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Big New Ice Route in Montana

Scott Coldiron and Christian Thompson have climbed a big new ice route in the Cabinet Range of Montana. Coldiron and Thompson climbed Black Well Falls WI5 M4 300 metres over the weekend. “To my knowledge, it’s the biggest steep, pure ice route in this little
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Alex Johnson Sends Her Project The Swoop

The strong American boulderer Alex Johnson has sent her Red Rocks project and called it The Swoop. Alex Johnson wrote on her Facebook page: “The Swoop is a project no more. I stuck this move for the first time ever on Friday and took it to the top. This was my baby, I found
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Vid: New West Coast Boulder Problem

With a warmer-than-usual winter, Canada’s West Coast has had plenty of route development. Watch as local Israel Cruces climbs sends a fun and committing route he called The Birth of Tragedy. “Scariest first ascent I have ever done by myself. If you fall mantling the
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Hansjorg Auer on The Music of Chance

Hansjorg Auer has climbed dozens of cutting-edge new routes. In 2012, he established The Music of Chance 5.11b, A3 on the Kristallwand Face in Austria. The Kristallwand Face was first tried by Hermann Buhl, the legendary Austrian climber. Music of Hope Variation The route took
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