Gripped Magazine

Routes

Jan Hojer Crushed at Silvretta

Austrian world champion Jan Hojer recently joined Julian Wurm for some hard bouldering. Hojer and Wurm were climbing at Silvretta in Austria when they put away some difficult problems. Hojer managed to flash Freerunner V13 and Golden Gate V13. He also sent sent Momento V14, More
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Sasha DiGiulian Repeats Legendary Ron Kauk Route

American crusher Sasha DiGiulian has repeated a difficult Ron Kauk route. The route is called Peace 5.13c/d and became well-known after Kauk appeared in one of the Masters of Stone videos climbing the 100-metre route. It was originally being climbed ground up by John Bachar, who
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New Big Rockies Route: Bucking Horse Rider

Three Squamish-based senders have climbed a new big route on the Rockies’ Mount Louis. Mount Louis is an iconic peak near the town of Banff and is part of the Sawback Range. The first ascent was nearly 100 years ago and despite what some might think, it is hardly climbed
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Kate Rutherford and Jasmin Caton Climb New Remote Alpine Routes

The Leaning Towers in are remote and rarely-visited granite peaks in B.C.’s interior. By Jasmin Caton Kate Rutherford and I just returned from a week-long trip to the Leaning Towers in the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy. We enlisted the services of Stephen Senecal as a
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Watch the First Free Ascent of a Quebec 5.14

In 2009, Julien Bourassa-Moreau was starting to take is place on the climbing scene and he is now one of Quebec’s strongest climbers. In this video, Julien makes the first free ascent of a now-popular 5.14a at Baldi called Cassiopee.
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Watch Some Wicked Pocket Climbing on a 5.15a

Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated a 2009 Chris Sharma route in Margalef, Spain called Demencia Senil 5.15a. After Sharma’s first ascent Iker Pou and Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the second and third ascents in 2010. After six days of work, Ghisolfi was able to
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New Moderate Rockies Multi-Pitch Route

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies regular new-routers and his new moderate looks like a must-climb. The route is on a 150-metre band of rock across from the Mosquito Creek hostel on the Icefields Parkway. Mills teams up with Steph Kish on July 9 for their first ascent of
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Karakorum Storm: Death on Broad Peak and K2 Climbers Stalled

It is summit-push season in the high Karakorum and while climbers approach the tops of Broad Peak and K2, a storm is wreaking havoc. Heavy snows and warm temperatures are to blame for a recent avalanche below Camp 1 on Broad Peak that injured several climbers and took the life of
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Brette Harrington Makes Third Free Ascent of Edge of Pan!

Squamish-based crusher Brette Harrington has made the third ascent and first female ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief. The Edge of Pan was first free-climbed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. One week ago, Harrington and American climber Jesse Huey rappelled in for
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Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel Repeat Old Swiss Route

Swiss climber Nina Caprez and French climber Marc le Menestrel have climbed Hannibals Alptraum in the Ratikon Mountains of Switzerland. The difficult route was first climbed in 1986 by Martin Scheel and Robert Bosch and ascends to the right of the popular hard route called
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