Gripped Magazine

Routes

Sebastian Bouin Makes Third Ascent of Famous 5.15b

French climber Seb Bouin has made the third ascent of Chilam Balam 5.15b at Villanueva del Rosario in the Andalusia region of Spain. It’s Bouin’s first 5.15b and the route’s third ascent after Bernabé Fernández in 2003 and Adam Ondra in 2011. The route was
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Watch Finlayson Send the Squaminator Traverse

Jamie Finlayson is one of Canada’s strongest climbers. Watch him on the rarely-climbed Squaminator Traverse V9 that he sent yesterday. “This is one burly traverse,” said Finlayson. “I am going to have to go with V9 for this one. Felt much harder than a V8
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Evan Hau Sends Another New 5.14 in Rockies

Evan Hau is a Calgary-based climber who is among the top sport climbers in the country. He is spending his summer finding and sending some of the Bow Valley’s last hard projects.  While on his journey to find Canada’s first 5.15a, Hau’s been busy putting down
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New Route on Yosemite’s Broderick

Yosemite is one of the world’s most popular climbing destinations, but there remains a number of unclimbed routes. Brandon Adams and Alec Zachreson have added Thugz Mansion 5.10b A2 and Voodoo Child variation to the south wall of Broderick. To find the route, approach up
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First Ascent of an Albertan V10 by Matt Lucas

Matt Lucas is no stranger to hard bouldering problems and he recently opened a new crag in Kananaskis Country with fellow Calgary climbers. Their new crag is dubbed Crows Nest and is located across from Nakiska Ski Resort in Kananaskis Country, AB. Joined by Marc Eveleigh and
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Quebec’s New Wall is Big and Splitter

Quebec has some of the best rock climbing in Canada and while many think the potential has been tapped out, a new wall on Lac du Cap proves otherwise. Serge Alexandre Demers Giroux and friends explored a new wall, similar in appearance to Ontario’s Bon Echo, on May 16. The
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John Lauchlan Award Recipients Climb New Yukon Routes

The 2014 John Lauchlan Award recipients have returned from a successful trip to a remote part of the Yukon. Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl (in place of Steve Holeczi) spent the better part of a month in the rarely-visited Kluane Mountains in the southwest corner of the
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Watch Joe Ho Send an Ontario V10

Ontario boulderer, Joe Ho, recently sent a long-term project at The Halfway Log Dump. Joe is no stranger to Halfway Log Dump as he’s been making annual trips for the past few years. On his last trip, he sent Stingray V10, which is one of the only two V10s at Halfway.
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New Route on Alaska’s Mount Lucifer

John Frieh has made a number of trips to Alaska’s Stikine Ice Cap and on almost every trip climbs a new route. In May 2015, Frieh was joined by Doug Shepherd for the first ascent of the north face of Mount Lucifer 2,300 metres. Frieh’s first trip to the Stikine was in
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Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
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