Gripped Magazine

Routes

Squamish’s famous finger crack, Exasperator!

IFMGA mountain guide Crosby Johnston talks about one of his favourite Squamish 5.10 rock climbs, Exasperator Crack. It is one of the best single-pitch routes in Squamis, located at the Grand Wall base, it is 45 m of technical finger crack climbing. It was first climbed in 1960 by
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Cosmiques Arete

Chamonix’s famous Cosmique Arete was first climbed by George and Maxwell Finched in August 1911. From Summit Post: The Cosmiques Ridge is a supurb varied route which is justifiably popular. It is the perfect introduction to Alpine mixed climbing has enough variety to keep
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Finlayson Sends Superman

Squamish climber, Jamie Finlayson, who has a piece on Squamish climbing in our June issue, has sent Superman 5.14c on the Big Show at Cheakamus. Finlayson sent the route which was first climbed by Sonnie Trotter in 2002, second ascent by Sean McColl in 2004, on May 7. Finlayson
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New route above Khumbu

Labuche East is a 6,145-metre Nepalese peak close to the Khumbu Glacier. It was first climbed in 1984 by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen The Odessa Alpine Club climbed a new route on Lobuche East in eight days. The climb took three nights on the wall in heavy snowfall.
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Nalle bags third-ascent of V15

Nalle Hukkatival recently sent the sit start to Klem Loskot’s Bugeleisen in Austria, a 13-year project. Before leaving Maltatal valley he dispatched one last route, the sit start to Loskot’s 2002 route Emotional Landscape. Nalle Hukkatival reports on Facebook,
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Adam Ondra in UK, onsighted Master’s Edge

Adam Ondra visits The Peak as part of the La Sportiva weekend. He onsighted Master’s Edge, Balance It Is, The Knock and Messiah. Adam Ondra Visits The Peak District from Lyon Equipment on Vimeo.
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Alex Megos sends Action Directe

Alex Megos needed only two hours to redpoint the world’s first 5.14d, first climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991. The Frankenjura route has stood the test of time and is consider the “must do” for climbers pushing the grade. Frankenjura reported Megos had only
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The River of Life in California, a wild new crack climb!

San Diego’s short version of Separate Reality – a new roof-crack rock climb featuring Randy Leavitt, filmed by Chris Hubbard, belayed by Stacey Stevenson. High above a city of two-million people. Though this climb is only 5.11+, it is spectacular for the grade.   
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Climbers: Closure in Banff Park

Banff Park will be doing controlled burns around Guides Rock near Banff, the area will be closed until the end of May. Issued 2014-04-30 Where: The area between Hillsdale Meadow at the east end of the Hillsdale split to the Fireside day-use area (including parking lot and Edith
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North of Squamish – Lillooet Edge

Many people have seen the cliffs near Lillooet, a recent retro-fitting has re-opened the area for sport climbing. How to get there: Go 51 km north of Whistler. Take highway 99 past Pemberton to Mount Currie and turn onto the Duffy Lake Road. Another 12 km later, the cliff is
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