Gripped Magazine

Routes

Aerial Footage of a Bugaboo Classic

Luke Humphrey’s most recent online film is a nicely produced video of the classic Bugaboo route, the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. Considered “the best 5.4 in the world,” the B.C. route gets dozens of ascents every season. The 500-metre-long ridge has sticky
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Vikki Weldon Sends Hard Squamish Crack

Vikki Weldon has climbed her hardest gear climb to date with her send of Adder Crack. On Fri. July 17, Vikki pieced together the difficult moves of one of Squamish’s 5.13a cracks called Adder Crack, and joined a small group of Canadian women who have sent a 5.13 gear climb.
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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Evan Hau Sends Hard New Rockies Route

The Canadian Rockies have thousands of sport routes, but with so much untouched rock it’s easy to find new and esthetic routes close to home. Calgary-based crusher Evan Hau recently found a new wall to develop and called it the Apocalypse Cave. The first route Hau developed
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Watch a Squamish V10 Send

Tomasz Wojtkowiak has been spending the better part of the summer in Squamish sending a number of classics. Wojtkowiak recently sent No Toublems V10 in the Grand Wall Boulders. The problem is one of the most popular V10s on the West Coast and receives a number of sends every
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Watch David Lama and Conrad Anker Climb New Zion Route

In the spring of 2015, David Lama and Conrad Anker teamed up for a bold ascent of one of Anker’s old projects.  Anker, 52, started the Zion route over 25 years ago with Doug Heinrich and completed it with 24-year-old Lama after four days of work. They called their route
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Steve McClure’s Second Ascent of U.K. Hard Route

British strong-man Steve McClure has made the second ascent of Neil Mawson’s recent E10. On the Sept. 21, 2014, Mawson sent his long-term project called Choronzon at Stack Rocks in Pembroke. With a grade of E10 8b+, the climb became the region’s hardest route. Mawson
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Watch Some Climbing at Smith Rock

Listen to some good tunes and get motivated by the most recent Red Rascal Film about Smith Rock, Oregon’s climbing destination. Smith Rock, OR from Red Rascal Films on Vimeo.
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The New Must-Have Online Lion’s Head Guidebook

Greg Williamson recently uploaded his new guidebook to Ontario’s Lion’s Head. Williamson, 42, is one of Lion’s Head’s most prolific climbers and has established over 20 new routes from 5.9 trad climbs to 5.13b sport routes. Lion’s Head’s steep
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New 5.15 in France by Seb Bouin

French Climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of one of France’s hardest route. The new 5.15a is at Pic Saint-Loup in Montpellier is a variation to Staphylocoque 5.14d/5.15a. Bouin’s route is called Kmira and took the 22-year-old only two weeks of projecting. In
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