Gripped Magazine

Routes

Earthquake Kills Mountain Guide and Destroys Iconic Kinabalu Peak

A deadly 6.0-magnitude quake occurred in the Malaysian state of Sabah on Borneo island about 55 kilometres from the the summit of Mount Kinabalu 4,095 metres. The quake happened on Friday at 7:15 a.m. local and caused rockslides that killed 19 people including mountain guides and
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Emily Harrington Sends Yosemite’s Golden Gate

American climber, Emily Harrington, has succeeded in sending her big wall project of 2015 with her send of Golden Gate 5.13. It took Harrington six days to send the 41-pitch El Cap route, which she led every pitch on. The first ascent of Golden Gate was in 2000 by Alex and Thomas
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Deconstructing Jenga: Hard New Route on Baffin’s Great Cross Pillar

Americans, David Allfrey and Cheyne Lempe, have climbed a new route on Baffin Island at the start of what promises to be a busy summer on Baffin Island. Allfrey and Lempe are two of America’s strongest big wall climbers. During May, the pair climbed a new route on Great
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Sachi Amma and Yuji Hirayama: Hard New Routes in Borneo

In 2013, we ran a feature by Yuji Hirayama about the climbing on Mount Kinabalu in Borneo. Three years after Hirayama’s historic 2012 trip, he’s returned with crusher Sachi Amma. The two Japanese climbers spent three weeks at the iconic Mount Kinabalu where they sent
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Remote Northwest Adventure Yields New Long Routes

Canadian Max Fisher and American Eric Bonnett have returned from another successful trip to Alaska and Northwestern B.C., where they’ve climbed two new long alpine granite routes. By Max Fisher During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Erik Bonnett and I
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Europeans Make First Ascent of Alaska’s Mount Reaper

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the unclimbed Mount Reaper in Alaska by their Sugar Man M7 A1 750 metres route up the north face. Mount Reaper was not only unclimbed, but reportedly unnamed and is on the Pitchfork Glacier near Mount Citadel and Berserker. The
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Mateusz Haladaj is First Polish Climber to Send 5.15!

Mateusz Haladaj is a 29-year-old Polish climber who recently sent his long-time project, Papichulo 5.15a, in Oliana this week. “So happy to climb that beast,” wrote Haladaj on 8a.nu who had climbed eight 5.14ds leading up to the ascent. “The 45 metres of
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Jamie Finlayson Sends Squaminator V12, Watch Here!

Squaminator V12 is part of the North Wall Boulders in Squamish and it’s one of the more popular problems at the grade in the area. Earlier this year, Luke Zimmerman made an ascent and his beta played a role in Jamie Finlayson’s ascent. “Steep and powerful with
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Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Climbs Second 5.14b on Home Soil

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a 28-year-old crusher from Sheffield, England, who has been climbing for 20 years. In 2014, she became the first British woman to climb 5.14b, Mecca Extension at Raven Tor in the Peak District, on U.K. soil. Now, she’s done it again. On May 29, Mina
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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab. Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles
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