Gripped Magazine

Routes

Jacopo Larcher on Prinzip Hoffnung

Bürser Platte, Voralberg, Austria: Italian climber Jacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Beat Kammerlander’s Prinzip Hoffnung, 5.14a. Kammerlander bolted it in 1997, but in 2009, at the age of 50, he decided to remove the bolts and climb it with trad gear. In March
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Barbara Raudner, 41, Sends First 5.14

Barbara Raudner started climbing when she was 28, she recently sent Los Humildes Pa Casa 5.14a in Oliana, Spain.  Raudner wrote on her blog, “Super psyched! Tuesday I sent the 50-metre aesthetic line Humildes Pa Casa. I´m really happy about the send, it´s a classic route
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Canadians Depart for The Revelations

As the Canadian team flew from Calgary to Salt Lake City to Anchorage on Tuesday, April 1, it is rumoured a French team was climbing their main objective,  the west face of Pyramid Peak. Alaska’s Revelations range is the centre of activity this spring with a Canadian,
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Dolomites New Evolution

Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan added difficult mixed finish to an ice route in the Dolomites. Their Evolution is a new 120 m WI 5+, M9+ that is protected with pitons, no bolts.
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Squamish’s Angry Beaver

The Squamish classic Split Beaver, 5.10b, has humbled many wanna-be off-width climbers. Mike Hengeveled summed it up, “My off-widthing started with a climb called Split Beaver. In the local climbing circle, it had a reputation as a hard climb, it is steep, sustained,
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Arizona’s Air France

Jonathan Siegrist added a new route Verdon-esque route to The Strip in Northern Arizon. Siegrist says the route is, “A true gem – I’m shocked that it was left untouched for so long. Here’s an amazing Keith Ladzinski image of Whitney Boland crushing Vesper
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La Dura Dura Complete

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra spent two years working together to climb La Dura Dura, 5.15c / 9b+, the world’s hardest climb. This film tells the story of their unique collaboration and shows Ondra’s historic first ascent and Sharma’s second ascent.
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Squamish Tree Thinning

Are you wondering why trees are missing around some of your favourite Smoke Bluff climbs? Don’t worry, it is not aggressive route cleaning. B.C. Hydro went to work on hydro poles in and around the Smoke Bluffs and the Apron, clearing trees and bush to access work sites. The
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Video: McColl on Meadowlark Lemon, V14

During a road trip in early 2014, Sean McColl sent one of North America’s hardest boulder problems when he climbed Meadowlark Lemon. For the full story, see here.
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Two New Routes in Europe

Here are two routes that have made the headlines on Planet Mountain this week. The Ring of Life, 5.14d/5.15a Silvio Reffo made the first ascent of the 55 move route at Covolo, Italy. “The ring of life is a classic examples of seeming impossible: at first I could hardly do
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